fuel

hey dude, not sure if it's too late already. Just start it up as usual, let it warm up first but just vary the idle like blip the throttle every few seconds or so, and just start driving it like normal. Once it's fully warmed up then go with the running in method. 15W40 mineral oil is fine, I wouldn't use a synthetic oil for running in but that's just me. I used 20W50 for the 4G37 me and pete built and 15W40 for the 6A12 I built. It's just going to get dumped out within 500kms anyway so I wouldn't worry if it's high quality or not

dude as long as you torqued the head bolts to 54ft lbs I wouldn't worry about re-torquing the head right away. I did 100kms in my original engine after I put the head back on after blowing a gasket before I re-torqued the head bolts, and then another engine we put together we didn't even re-torque the head bolts. I think most modern head gaskets don't require re-torquing. As for running it in, best way I reckon is to give the engine a bit of load, but don't thrash the bejesus out of it. Don't let it idle for too long and don't let it sit at constant revs for too long either, ideally you want to constantly vary the load and speed on the rings to aid with bedding them in quicker. Just drive it around as you would normally I reckon, but just bare in mind the varying of the load.

valve guide seals boe, when you are coasting down a hill the engine would be under a bit of vacuum, sucking the oil passed the stem seals into the combustion chamber, and when you get back on the gas at the bottom of the hill all the oil is burnt out causing the smoke.

didn't even take me a minute to find these: http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=6603 http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=7023

Build Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/22657-maru-sos-rx60/?p=578923 hey dude nice cressy, but I can't help but wonder how replacing a water pump (which pumps water only) is going to stop that massive oil leak. That oil leak is most likely coming from the front timing cover and/or the front crank seal.

Are you absolutely sure the battery is completely charged? Even if the battery is near new and has been sitting for a bit they can loose charge. Cranking an engine by far uses the most amount of energy a battery can supply, so just because the dash lights go doesn't mean the battery is fully charged. Check the earth straps and supply lead from the battery to the solenoid and starter.

yeah 700rpm should be the idle speed, point gap should be 0.5mm. Is I said before, run 95 or 98 and advance the timing to 8~10 deg and you'll have more power and better fuel economy.

That's after four coats on bonnet and guards and only a coat or two on the doors and roof. In the pic is a yellow patch on the bonnet caused by leaving a rag on it, but have since sanded back and given it another few coats. I think it's a huge improvement considering it looked like this: And before that it looked like this: I just have to find the time to get the last rust patch welded up and do another few coats and re-assemble it.

har... I should really pipe up here. I've been rolling my corolla with wattyl killrust which I thought would have been a suitable alternative to rustoleum. I was pretty hasty with my prep and probably haven't got the rolling technique down to a tee yet as I'm getting a bit of orange peel but I sand it back after two coats or so and it's fine. You can use a boat paint called brightside but finding it in NZ is difficult and it's expensive too.

yeah those engines are a bit of an orphan, although they are used in other Mitsis but they are no where near common. I've never dealt with one so I can't comment on their reliability but if it's just a SOHC carb model then it should go forever.

it could be the ignition model but that's buried inside the distributor. Try another distributor, one from a FWD Sigma or 87-92 Galant with 4G32 and 4G37 should fit, you may have to swap over the advancing weights and vac advance though as they may be different. I'm guessing the rotor and cap are in good condition?

hey dude, nice utes. I was bidding on that marina in the early stages eh, seemed like a good deal.

You could just get another WOF for the morange surely? Did the last WOF place specifically say it would fail a WOF next time round because of the rust? There's a couple places here in Hams which would easily pass it and then you wouldn't have to worry for another 6 months

Sorry didn't see this post til now. Yeah genuine mitsi would be expensive but all dealers usually have 'approved' aftermarket stuff in stock which is like half the price, still a little more pricey than other places. Partmaster usually have a decent brand for a good price. Wouldn't bother with one from repco or supercheap as both of them fucked out on the Galant within 6 months.

is that T1R for $135 ea? if so fark that's cheap as. I didn't wanna leave it til the last minute so I got mine fitted last night at $160 each. There are two proxes in that size, T1R and Proxes 4.

if you need a hand in hams let me know orion.

yeah that was my old galant doing it after I sold it to pete. filter is between the tank and the pump. Go for a quality brand if you can, it seems the cheap ones were letting pete down.

mean might take you up on that offer, there's a set of 6 used race semi slicks on trademe at the moment for a tidy price, might just get them haha and bother about road tyres later on.

yeah if you want to - 205/50 R15 in Toyo T1R or Dunlop DZ101 etc. Chur.

I can think of worse like Linglong, Triangle, Tornado, Clear, Hero etc. I think I might just get these T1R's at $163 each.. I hope the guy wasn't quoting excluding GST.

Oh real sweet just let me know anyway. I can get some Toyo T1Rs for $163 each fitted and balanced etc which is the best deal so far - the guy rates them over a Direzza for grip and said they were good in the wet, but he said they weren't as hard wearing as a Direzza. So so far I have T1Rs which are the cheapest brand new, grippy but may not last as long, or DZ101s which are grippy and will probably last a bit longer, and are midrange price, or the RE001s which are the most expensive but possibly the most grippy. Man.. why is choosing tyres so difficult?

bugger just called him he said best he could do was $198 a tyre fitted, and if I supplied tyres myself he would charge $15 a tyre.

Yeah it depends where you go really. I have a local guy down the road who swapped over some 14" tyres onto my standy rims and balanced them for $20. I just realised he's a Firestone dealer too so I'll go pay him a visit at lunch and see what he can do for me.

Sweet might go for the RE001s then. Wonder if I could get mine for a similar price at a Hamilton branch rather than bother buying them off trademe, getting them freighted then getting them fitted at an additional cost.

There's no Tony's Tyres up here