mikuni

I'll be going and would be keen to chuck my car in there if theres guna be someother non-yanks there with me. Don't wanna get flamed like I've seen many times before. And dude who originally posted with the manta, keen as a been to check it out and do you happen to know of any manta parts cars? I'm not wanting to steel bits for a chevette, honest

Damn motavation alright, that thing is insane. The front does look good and I agree, leave the bumper as it is. Why mess with a good thing.

I had an LTX8, which I bought because I saw it as the best for my application and for the price at the time. I've since found a massive disadvantage of microtecs in that you can't get the hardware in them upgraded. As soon as that model is no longer current microtec stop supporting them. That means that if you have a computer setup for a Nissan engine for example and want to put it onto a Toyota engine, you can't. Where as with link, they are always happy to help you out. Send them a digi 1 and they will upgrade the internal sensors etc so that you can configure it to run whatever application you require. Thats one reason I'd consider a link. The other is the $1200+ gst for the unit itself and the third is because of the fact anyone knows how to program them.

Hell yeah thats looking awesome man. Makes me wish I kept mine but ohwell. Jappa style mods on a chevette might work

Yeah and its not low enough. Rubbing on guards doesn't mean anything, just that the wheel offset is wrong/guards not rolled right

Damn I wish you could have the rear sitting right where it is now. Looks so mean. Just lift it off the tyres ever so slightly (like a couple mm) and get some springs made up with a crazy rate so that it doesn't go any lower, over bumps or with people in it. That what I want to try and do. I don't think my 13's will be anywhere near the guards anyway though.

Is BIGPUN not a hamilton car? I always thought it was because I see it around so much..

Huh? Why, if you're going custom? Don't bother compressing stando springs, its shit. I think the x60 still used the mcpherson strut front and coil rear setup. The front doesn't go that low, it tends to hit on the bumps quite quickly, but as far as shortened inserts go that shouldn't be a problem. Try aftermarket ae86 ones. I had a mx30 and a tt141 corona and I'm pretty sure the ae86 inserts fit in both of them from memory. They will hold the front spring nice and captive. Rears won't be a problem either, just mark on the shock how short you need them to be, then pull them out and take them to a suspension outlet (not supercheap or ripco) and they will find something suitable.

Nah, when was the last time you saw a black gemini coupe? Anyway, if anyones thinking of going rat it has to be done right. Can't just have bog patches and original paint. It has to be straight, needs to be a dull colour with bare metal rust patches coming through and all that. Either that or an absolute pos, which this obviously isn't. I say paint it mint gloss black and drop it on some nice little wide wheels.

You listened to your mums advice about cars?

I think it will be abit lower than your mini + longer wheel base makes it more difficult to get over things. But ahwell, I'll worry about that when I have to. The wheels are original honeycomb chevette wheels apparantly. And what do you mean the same shade of grey? Can blue and grey be the same shade? I do hardout like silver/grey/gunmetal cars though. Very cool and I usually try to convince people into painting their cars that colour!

Cool, my car should be running up till new years so I'm keen for some sorta cruise.

Yeah, gunna be a little bit hard to have it as low as I want it. I want to try and fill the guards as much as I can with the wheels but clearly that will have it sitting on the ground

Picture. Another. Note new lip and the wheels I'm in the process of widening. Will be getting powder coated silver within the next couple of weeks. They have been widened from 13x5 to 13x8 and will be getting 195x45R13 Dunlop SP Sport 9000 tyres streched onto them if all goes to plan. Go some new seats along the way and all my suspension is in the front. Handles like a dream but I'm having some teething problems with the vented isuzu brakes on the front. Lotsa plans for this we thing over the next year or so.

Microtecs have atleast one aux out that you could use for this. Would be super simple to hook up and program, just make it put out 12v from idle to 4 grand or so then drop off after that. Will probably add abit of torque and help wind up a little easier. Might aswell aye..?

my god. I thought the days of filling wholes with chicken mesh and bog were over :'( hope I never buy one of those cars. oh wait, nah its 'sweet bro'

^ Yah. Do it another weekend tho, ie not labour weekend. Anyone with there right mind won't be in hams this weekend and will have gone to a decent beach (not raglan).. haha

Doesn't sound like a bad idea. Zep is the man to talk to if you want to do anything along these lines. Send him a PM The only issue I have with this is that you'd want to choose the places well. I'd rather just keep it as is with only a few members than have a whole heap of illiterate munters coming on spouting off about this and that.

Nah, its using the newer engine. Those engines are super pricey.. unwards of 2grand even over here! ecotecs are newer and torqueyer (wholey shit is that a word) and apparantly respond better to mods?!? But yeah. I'm carbing the fuker, I hate ecu's this one is driving me crazy already and I've only had it a day. Atleast carbed cars start and let you figure out whats wrong rather than flashing a bullshit light. I shorted out the ecu pins but it doesn't seem to flash any differently.. just continues on with the same code. Strange.

Secret

Ahh, you were right. I just had a proper look and its just the bloody engine light! Shit! lol I'll have a play with the ecu and see if I can figure out what the eng thinks the problem is. Cheers for your help man.

And there is a pretty complex engine diagnosis system. I think you can tell the fault from flashing lights or by plugging some sorta contraption onto it, but I think it will tell me what I already know, because the gearbox is blatantly snapped in half so I'm quite sure thats where the prblem lies!

Ahh shit. Nah its deffinately a gearbox light aye. Looks like a pretty little fwd gearbox and has a nice X in it from memory. I'll recheck but I also remember seeing the engine check light. I'll grab a camera and get pics tonight also, jus for the bling factor yo. Perhaps theres not a fluid sensor, that really surprises me though. Would there be any other type of sensor on there or any other way that the engine would detect a fault in the gearbox? I just thought fluid level because thats an obvious easy sensor. And also the gearbox is clearly out of fluid.

Oh yip that makes sense. It actually does sound like the fuel gets cut tho, just the way the car dies it doesn't seem like spark. Perhaps I could by pass the fuel pump relay and that might stop the engine cut out anyway. But first I will have a look for the gearbox fluid sensor, perhaps a pic would be helpfull anyway just to make sure I've got the right one. I don't think there will be much coming off the box tho. Its manual after all. Or else I will attack it with 'knead-it' and duct tape and try to refill it with fluid to get it running again! Yeah, ghetto styles...

Chur indeed, I will have a look for the sensor as per first reply. I hate to argue with a vectra 'guru' but I really think it has something do to with the gearbox aye. Its a 1996 Holden Vectra Ecotech 2.0L 16v (I think its a x20xev but I haven't checked) Car was running perfectly, driving and all. I was aware of the gearbox leak so I pulled over to check that it was alright. I pulled over at the survo to find it dripping out at a rapid rate and after about 5 mins there was a big pool under the car. I tried putting abit of fluid in anyway and it just came straight out. I thought 'fuk it, I'll just try driving it' and tried to start it but it wouldn't start. I checked over everything to do with spark, fuel etc and it appeared ok. I tried starting it again and noticed that it the gearbox light was flashing on the dash. As you first turn the key on the gearbox light just lights up like all the other warning lights do, then it starts flashing after about 2 seconds. So I found the engine actually starts if you just turn it straight from 'acc' to 'start' and by pass the 'on' because the computer doesn't have time to recognise the gearbox fault, but after a second of running the gearbox light starts flashing and the engine stalls. There is deffinately a relationship there as far as I can see. But yeah, hopefully all that was easy to understand and if you could ask that vectra dude about it again that would be very legendary!