mikuni

It doesn't really make any difference whether you are running individual throttles or a single one - you can have long or short runners either way. Generally people running ITB's will run short runners for ease and this also equates to torque delivery higher in the rev range, meaning more HP.

I'm not convinced a variable intake runner is worth while, because they are just designed to add a bit more torque to a small capacity engine to help it tug along the 1500kg pigs that they were put in. Halving the weight of the car will cure any loss of torque that the engine will experience. But in saying that, here are a couple of suggestions for variable intake runners. Changing the length of the runner itself is messy, it's better to change the tract to increase or reduce the length. This is a nice and easy example to see, but obviously it won't work on a V6 due to space constraints. This is from an Opel ecotec 2 litre. Throttle body at the top, ports to the left. The solenoid in the middle actuates an internal flap that shuts off the long path to the bottom so that the air can only take the short path when at high rpm. This is the 3 litre ecotec V6 and it runs a system that could work in your case. I can't find a diagram showing it, but from what I understand it has to layers sitting up top. It uses the same principle as above, so air either flows straight in the throttle bodies and into the ports at high rpm, or across to the end of the top layer, then down into the bottom before heading back into the ports. Not ideal, but probably the best you can do in a tight space.

haha. I know exactly what you mean. But at the end of the day, that's the whole point of it really.

I can't help but whatever you do, make sure you align the clutch perfectly before trying to refit the gearbox. Have spent many an unhappy hour under a car trying to correct the issue with sockets and tape

Sounds good. Although it's hard to ask why people don't come to meets when the people that do are there, and the people that don't, are not. But yeah, can't hurt to have some yarns.

Oh lol at my repeat post up there. So still happening next week too?

We usually talk shit in the car park in the cold for 15 min or so before heading in for a beverage and a meal, so that's the ideal time o turn up. Otherwise we'll be at a table out doors.

Is there a topic moderation icon up the very top of the post? I would do it for you but can't figure how how to on my phone. Edit: done

oh fu ck. Somethings come up and I don't think I'm going to be able to make this one.. again.. Sorry YOWZER!! Likely won't be going to this anyway at this stage, but will look to cobble the Commodore together or catch a ride for the cruise in an old car if things do fall in to place and we make it up there.

bring Cam?

Sounds like the best bet. Your friendly local certifier will be able to give you a firm answer as to whether the rust is structural or just cosmetic. If it's not structural and they inspect the car first they should be happy for you to repair it yourself and as JasonK mentions above, a repair cert wouldn't be expected. If your certifier inspects the car and finds a lot of rot in structural locations it will be a whole different story and they can then advise you on the next steps.Alternatively, if the car is inoperable you might be able to take photo's into them, or even post photo's here for our own friendly certifier cletus to comment on.

holy shit! gutted man. Trying to figure out what's going on. On the way home and someone coming the other way crossed the centre line and took out the RHS trailer wheel? Shit looks intense anyway.

Was thinking a little more about your quest for economy.. rebuilding the v6 with tight tolerances and good OEM parts would probably be one of the best things you could do to get it back to tip top efficiency and making good power. I think that would be the best way to spend a grand or so anyway (hopefully less depending on what the parts set you back). Better than an aftermarket ecu anyway. I gave the engine in my old Chevette a freshen up when it went in and it was so cool having a tight engine in an old car.

Chevettes have this brace and it seems to help. I changed from the original master to one from a Piazza that didn't allow for the bracket and it did introduce a little bit of flex in the firewall. I just came here to say how awesome it is that you are pursuing the v6 option. It's going to be very cool if it all comes together.

Not really like wasted spark, because that would mean (on a V6) you would have pairs of injectors going and you'd end up using twice the fuel you require.Basically the ecu looks at the parameters of the engine and calculates how much fuel is needed for a complete cycle of the engine (all 6 cylinders firing) and puts that much fuel in with all injectors at once. At lower engine speeds you can see why this isn't ideal, but as Tom and Spence mention, at higher RPM the engine cycles are so fast it doesn't really matter that it only fires all of the injectors at the same time, because even if they were sequential they are basically "on" anyway. Late 80's and early 90's ecu's obviously use well outdated technology, but look at what they are trying to do. All they need to be able to do is put the right amount of fuel in at the right time, and fire a spark also at the right time. Granted they can be improved upon, but I don't really think this is what you are after on this build. In my opinion, the money you save in sticking with the original ecu if possible will far out weigh the economy increase in finely tuning the engine on an A/M ecu.The biggest advantages with aftermarket ecu's is that it allows you to easily make changes to the engine and setup which otherwise are not so easily done with most factory ecu's. You would be able to run throttle bodies and lean the engine right up, a few things like that to make a bit more power and fine tune the engine to run at maximum efficiency. tldr: try make factory ecu work

Here's a really good explanation. http://www.carsdirec...s-pros-and-cons edit: actually, it goes weird near the end so I'll just post the good bits. sequential fuel injection is a type of multi-port fuel injection system in which each injection valve will open just before the cylinder intake valve opens. So in essence, the individual injectors work by themselves because they are fired individually. Other multi-port systems will fire all the injectors in groups no matter if the cylinder is ready or not. While sequential variable fuel injection has many benefits, direct injection is quickly becoming the system of choice and is replacing the SEFI systems. Advantages The main advantage of a sequential system is that the entire system has a fast response time when the driver makes a quick change. More or less fuel can be released when the next intake valve opens. For systems that do not use sequential fuel injection it will be necessary for the entire engine to complete a revolution before the fuel to air ratio can be altered. This type of injection also produces much lower emissions and provides even better fuel economy. Because the fuel is altered for each cylinder, you can potentially get the best performance out of the engine that is possible. The throttle response is immediate, which allows for very rapid changes in the fuel to air mixture. Because fuel is used more economically, the emissions released are lower. This is very important where vehicles are being produced to meet stricter emissions. Disadvantages Because there is a single injector for each cylinder, the larger the engine the more expensive the system. A V6 engine will need 6 injectors and a V8 would need 8 injectors. Sequential systems are also more expensive because they require an additional wiring harness that is used to ensure that the injectors pulse sequentially. The electronic control is more complicated and requires additional equipment to run properly. Because the system is more complicated it is very difficult to install and most drivers will require professional installation. This in turn also increases the cost of the system.

Far out, that's a bit harsh..

Damn. In before ST191 race car re-suggestion.

Keen for this. Ten5 seems to be the only one organised, but I don't think the 110 is capable of housing 6+ with luggage Next Monthly Meet?

Looks sweet in blue. You should take it right back, then just fix up the blue a bit. Gutted about the sticker. Was it just for the lowering?

So. Awesome.

Holy crap. Someones actually considering a 2ZZ. Wheres phil?I don't know if they really tick the boxes you are after. While they are a "good" engine, they are known to be a little bit fragile. They are expensive to buy outright and I'm not aware of a RWD box that bolts up. They're also alloy front sump. Do they have engine mounting positions for RWD application? Not sure about that one, it never came RWD in a production car, but they are used in things like Formula Toyota etc, so they might have something you can use. If you're looking that far outside the box what about the Nissan SR16VE - this is Nissan's version of a Honda Vtec. It has a cam chain instead, which is kind of an advantage. A RWD box should bolt up being part of the SR family, though I think there are differences between RWD and FWD SR bellhousings. Not major though. They're cheap enough. You can get a 2litre if you want. They will be cheap to run and reliable. Negatives would be sump is once again at the front, and that dizzy sticking out the back might be tricky - could work around that though.

Beams is 530mm from the bottom of the block to the top of the plenum. Add another 100 or so on there for the sump and thats assuming that you have it positioned exactly right. It also assumes you have to move the steering rack, which is a little bit dumb. You can get an idea how tall they are from that picture. People often have to lower the cross member in old escorts etc to get it to fit, which isn't ideal for ride height or handling. Not saying it can't happen, just that it isn't really the most straight forward options when you read through what Alex is after.

Agreed. A BEAMS 3S-GE would be very difficult to fit into the front of a Viva because they are such a tall engine. I'd go so far as to say it won't fit in there if you want it at a decent ride height. The 3S-FE is a good suggestion for what you're after. You could liven it up with a new set of cams, or even put a nice little turbo/supercharger setup on it if you did want a bit more punch with minimal increase in consumption.

It's very good aye. Yeah, my chevette motor was ecotec. It will be better for ecomony as it is a torquey low-mid range engine with small ports and a conservative cam. The XE powered cars were also very economical, but as these cars were late 80's - mid 90's they were much lighter than the safer yet heavier cars the ecotec powered from the mid 90's ongoing. An XE doesn't make much sense for what you want compared to the ecotec, as if something goes wrong with an XE it can get expensive and difficult to get parts to fix. An ecotec - slap another motor in there from pickapart or similar for $300 haha (that's what my motor cost at least)They are all iron block, but I've come to realise this doesn't mean a huge deal on the overall weight of any engine. It might make 10kg difference, but in the scheme of things an engine block doesn't weigh much when you lift it bare.