Gaz

Running gear: Figured since Ive had a Hilux diff sitting around for a few cars now I better use it! So its going in the coupe. At the mo the axles are in at the engineers getting the centre turned down a bit and re-studded to fit some new s14 sylvia discs I brought. Chris had some spare rear brake brackets from when he did his so thats set the disc and now im on the lookout for FXGT calipers to complete the rear end disk setup. I also threw some new wheel bearings at it same time as this made sense... hilux rear wheel bearings $90 each!! rip! Once its back then I can setup the disks and then measure up for shortening the sucker for max rim width (another story) I also brought some adjustable link bars for it with new bushes so now all I need is the panhard rod to be modded to adjustable also and rear end will be set. Now upgrading the rear disks meant I had larger disks on the rear than the front, not going to work! I searched around the net for an upgrade to the front and all I can find is S4+ rx7 discs whch slip over the front hub, these dont suit as they wont fit 14" rims so I ditched that idea and headed into the local parts store to fuck around for hours with their DBA manual. Anyways I found some disks in the end which should fit a 14 and are vented and close to fitting. Currently they are in the engineers being machined a bit to fit. Since Id have to make up new caliper brackets I decided to upgrade the calipers same time. Looking online it seems a set of shitty second hand 4pots from a Rx7 or similar are going to cost me 300 with shitty pads.. I decided to piss on that option and shopped around a bit netting a brand new set of Wilwood Dynalites with pads for just under 5spot. Seems like the right option to me.. Oh yeah also chucked new wheel bearings at it jus cause. edit, pic for post: Silly rotarys run one big nut on flywheel...

One for the OG OSers (see back screen) What else has gone on.... The car came complete minus a few things.. i.e not complete! It was missing the front seats and a radiator. So onto Ebay where I brought a new alloy 3 core rad and had it shipped over, Havnt installed but its for an Rx2 so should be all G. Rx2 coupe seats being rare as fuck I opted for a set of refurbished Rx4 coupe seats which have had a lil bit extra padding installed around the bolsters. They feel much better and still keep that period look/fuck buckies! I guess I can find a pic of those later. I also opted for a new engine as the donk sitting since 96 was in fuck knows what condition, I decided Ill buy a runner and then rebuild the old one if it was ok.... As normal I got carried away and ended up with a fresh build 13b bridge from Lawton Motorsports running rx8 rotors and a 55mm side draft, whoops! I then brought all new coils, leads, alternator etc etc and a MSD ignition. Dunno if this was the right choice or not but itll get me running at the very least. Since then I have pulled down the 13b that came with the car and its not too bad but not mint either. Just a std engine, was clean inside apart from one housing with a bit of wear on edge of housing.. bout 2mm prob still usable but Im not keen. Now that I had engine (and rebuilt S2 7 5 speed which I forgot to mention) I needed clucth, pplate and flywheel setup. Greenbros ended up selling my the 10lb flywheel and I also got a sump baffle plate. For the clutch I went and saw the GCs at MP Auto Parts in Upper hutt. These guys are awesome and invited me out one morning with all my clucthes and plates I had to test clamping pressures. All of them were pretty avg and could be rebuild to HD but not to as high spec as I wanted. So in the end I opted with a new HD PPlate 2500 and a new full faced organic sprung center clutch. This should work and be alot more streetable than a POS puck clutch. Still need counter weight.

Test colour applied and confirmed this be the colour Im going to go with. No clear on as its just 1k and will be stripped back off for epoxy and proper 2k in the coming months. So I said before it was pretty rust free, it does have rust but not out of control.. touch wood (dustless blasting may/will reveal more!). Both drivers and passenger floors need some part replacing... easy, a bit on drivers side lower A pillar and above gutter, I think Ill pay for these two areas as bit above my welding skills/time. It also needed a small patch infront of rear wheel as seen below which is now all done and also small pinholes above gutter on passenger side which is also 90% done. Apart from this its rust free,, not bad going I say!

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43169-the-deuce-coupe-by-gaz/ Guess now that I have started working on this item of metal I have had in storage for so long I should post it up. In true Gaz fashion don't expect too much in the way of updates. 75 Rx2 coupe.. dead rego. Starts a bit like dis.., but had diff wheels and was dirty(er) I brought an rx2 coupe complete a few years back from mid N island. It was a lil bit beat up but rust was minimal (what I call minimal anyways) The car had sat since 96 as was a father son project which was never finished once the son shipped out for uni. They had managed to get as far as mounting an Rx4 13b in the hole but had never started up. While fishing through the car on initial inspection I stumbled across an old faded receipt in the back seat dated 1996. With a bit of deciphering I read the value, $2200 and I could just make out Peddlers.. putting two and two together I wiggled my head under the guards and whatda ya know Pedders adjusties front and rear. They forgot to mention this in the TM auction, along with a few other bits so I quickly made my offer.. he hrrmmd and harred and then crumbled to the Gaz charm. I loaded her onto the trailer getting the fuck outta hicktown heading back to Wellly where it was destined for my garage for several years gathering dust... Oh no wait I sold the 13" hustlers that were on it and put it on 15" meshies (no real reason other than good price on rims and cause mesh). So that gets us from bout 20011 to 2014. So this year I started working on her again with the aim of Feb 2015 ready to roll and then go for cert/reg from there +-. I have a bit of a plan here for the car consisting of dark green.. gold start sharks.. and 13b. I set about stripping the car of all panels, chrome, glass, and interior.. this was the easy part. I then brought a number of purple 3M foam stripping disks and started stripping paint off panels (the purple ones rated for higher RPM and dont explode on ya). I got thru the bonnet and boot before deciding it was not fun so I went and purchased paint to try some test colours.. getting ahead of myself but that's how I roll.

Looking at doing same thing in next 6 months. You aware of the % inner and outer lip you can have for certification requirements? Gaz

Nice bro, like the wide decking, way better.

Russel

Yum rim/wheel combo. I did the same thing to my bike I built a few years back but spokes are black and a few less of them. I laced them up with a brand new coaster, not the cheapest way really. Gaz

Sweet done a bit of research now and thse guys are my next point of call in aussie... http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm. Local BNT used to do them from Aus but havnt done a set for 4 years and the contact they had doesnt work anymore. Will be trying a diff branch also. The leads all seem to come in packs so that doesnt help but will visit Pick a apart this weekend to see if I can find something to suit. Problem is they all seem to have different boots to seal around the head... typical. I could mount coils pack on the plastic heater cover and the std leads would almost reach but the standard coil pack is ugly so I have opted to put it to the right on the flat area under the wiper motor (which I have rotated around to clear)... Maybe I will just settle with some normal leads as generally water shouldnt get down there... it is full of oil at present though from previous owner oil change. Gaz

Oh yeap so crimp a new end on the coilpack end with KKs crimper, might be the go. Will go try BNT see if they have any more long ones. The spark plug end seems to be relativly specefic.

Yeah they got funky ends on em like phil suggests ... http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m96q48XxJrBByXDjL46-sZg.jpg Looking at the standard ones Im not too sure how they were crimped on. I think I need to do it properly as once its going I know Ill never get round to getting the correct ones. Need to be approx 600mm in length +- Gaz

How do you guys go about getting longer ignition leads when moving coilpack? Custom im guessing, anywhere in Welly I can go and an idea of costs would be good? Have had a look at product on shelf at Repco and SCA but nothing really suitable as they are a stalk/styem type conection to plug. Engine = X20xev.. Brad what did you do? Coil Packs were sitting directly at rear of head so OG leads are pretty short. Engine in new car means firewall gets in the way of where the coil packs were mounted so have had to move coil packs onto firewall. Need to extend leads approx 300mm/get new ones/find something that suits. Chur Gaz

Running a 13b monster port now with a hooge IDA out the bonnet and a gilmore drive the size of dinner plate. Gaz

didnt you also mount yours way lower than the normal?

A box of 24 beers and itll come with some other parts too... If your keen I will double check there is a clutch there. Gaz

Would pay to have Gavin check the rim out first as some he canot spin. Gaz

UPGRADE!

Ahh so kinda like fish oil. So you spray it?

What exactly is cavity wax? I usually seam seal everything prior to paint so there are no cracks left. Is it either one or the other? Gaz

Killrust is nothing on Por15. I used killrust super etch to prime the whole Chevtte though, worked well. Gaz

That dolphin glaze is so much nicer to work with than bog, used some stuff left over from uni days on bumper recently and had forgoten how good it was. Was actually surprised it was still good, 3 year shelf life!

Can add some primer filler in if required also but make sure to use 2k... 1k primer filler is shit as the paint will reactivate each layer of 1k and scracthes etc wont fill very well.. 2k the paint dont activate again once dry. Gaz

Spenny speaks the truth, using 2k.... epoxy prime, fill, epoxy prime, base, clear. I believe that technically epoxy primer is the only primer you are supposed to bog over, this is because it stops moisture from getting under the bog from steel, then when you finish bog an reprime using epoxy primer it stops moisture getting in again, basically you seal up the bog to stop lifting.. this does not mean that is what everyone does but it is what the tech sheerts say. Gaz

Blinky Bloody Bill aye.

There are a handfull of them out there, both semis and standard. Ring CPA in Lower Hutt if you really get stuck. I have talked to the younger guy there about this before, he will be able to help no worries... although anytyre shop should be able to as all he did was open the book and ring the supplier then relay the information to me while he was on the phone. Gaz