Burntrubber

Engine is going all seems well obviously needs a few creases ironed out but other than that its all good. Only running 4psi till its run in then I'll probably change the actuator to a 12psi along with some bigger injectors probably use rx7 ones. My gearbox blew on the second run yesterday it would appear it had no oil in it cars been off the road for 7 years I guess I must of drained it at some stage and never filled it back up Never mind I had a spare and changed it straight away and put oil in it.

I used an efi pump for my carbi turbo setup. The power to the pump was only 7v so it only ran 20psi and my holley regulator could get that right down to 0psi.

I would be real happy with a low 14 I would be over the moon if it got into the 13's.

The engine bolts straight to the Gemini box and cross member. The gearbox cross member had to have new holes drilled in it about 15mm forward of the original ones because the blocks a bit shorter and it pulls the box forward a little. The heater cover and firewall need to be cut and massaged a bit to fit the dizzy in but thats it for cutting etc. Internally the engine is stock its just bolt on mods pretty much. Ecu I'm using is a megasquirt theres the plenum I made and the turbo manifold and turbo which aren't stock. Should go pretty well I think my carby turbo 1600 went hard so this should be a fairly big improvement.

Don't have my red Gemini anymore sold that turbo to a guy I work with he's painted it matt black. As for the silver one I have been working hard hope to have this engine running buy the weekend its a 4zc1-T Turbo Piazza engine.

All the Ozzie guys just use the in tank pump as a lift pump. I think Zep is running his like this as well.

Don't bother with porting just put an injected G200z in it I may have one for sale soon

On some cars there's a relay between the key and the solenoid obviously if its poked it wont go.

A place here in Whangarei cuts and re-welds them for between $100-150 per axle. Housings cost from $600-800 to shorten including axles.

I have to correct myself here I rang Shaine to make sure and he told me you cant use them they have to internally threaded the arms. Its ok for some things like panard rods etc but not link arms.

I spent ages researching till I got all the info I needed to do it properly some of it was so hard to come by! but I got it going but I have since moved onto injection well in the process.

cert dude? witch guy did you ask? i use the dude in kerikeri. the whangarei guy (shane speight ? ) is spose to be a bit of a tard from what ive heard? Shane is quite the opposite if you ask me. He signs off all our stuff that requires engineers approval for the company I work for. Also a few off my friends have used him. Use connecting nuts their 50mm long nearly 3 times a standard 16mm nut.

Really guy I spoke to said it was fine.

20 NB mild steel pipe is all good heaps of older cars have it standard for there arms. You could just welds a nut to the tube best would be to cut a thread into the tube. You will need get a pipe with the right id to match the thread you want to cut or at least smaller so you can bore it bigger if you need to. Generally rose joints have the same size eye as they do thread (just what I've been told) so I'd go 16mm. The tube you would need for that if you were to cut the thread into it has an OD of about 26mm and an ID of 14mm I was going to use this stuff for myself but I am going to just weld nuts on.

I used a stock weber a Cortina then one of an Escort it worked fine with removing and sealing up the the choke butterfly's and tapping a thread for the fuel hose tails to screw in as the only mods. I made a hat which sat on top screwed on where the stock air filter screws on. A tiny amount of fuel leaked out of the throttle shafts over time was about a month before I saw any and after several months it was still only a little. The first carb I drilled and tapped threads for dry air seals into the throttle shafts but I had tuning issues with that carb and ended up flagging it. Dry air seals plumb pressure from above the venturi to the shaft so it only leaks clean air not air/fuel mix. The pressure is slightly higher above the venturi so it pushes the fuel back in. I never did it on the second carb cause it was quite an effort and I was to lazy. For sealing the cable on an enclosed carb there a few ways some people have used marine cables or a sealed linkage on the outside connected to original linkage on the inside. Here's a pic of that carb.

RedLine make adapters for weber carbs for many cars anywhere that stocks RedLine products should be able to get them.

Nah its brass floats you don't want plastic ones are all good.

Webers are good I used a DGAV downdraft carb with no major mods only leaked a little around shafts.

I weighed one complete with falcon disks on it and it was right on 80kg's it was the short 2wd one cant remember how wide they are. It also had Gemini spring seats on it which might weigh like 1kg more than the Hilux leaf mounts.

Torsen is part of the company name I think its a different type of limited slip diff to say a clutch pack or viscous lsd it uses gears to lock the wheels. Google Zexel Torsen heaps of shit out there about them.

Basically any worn suspension components will cause a car/ute to wander around. Worn shocks,springs and bushes are the obvious items to look at.

The Hilux isn't that heavy aye 80kg's with disks. That is to heavy for a car your trying to keep light with around 200hp though. The borgwarner is only just bigger in physical size compared to a stock Gemini diff not sure of the weight of one though. I've never seen a Chevette diff are they real tiny? I have a complete Piazza,Gemini and a shortened Borgwarner I should weigh them all

I wouldn't even bother looking for a Piazza just go for a Hilux or a Borgwarner from a Commodore or a Falcon. Piazza's lsd's are very rare and not that strong. Nothing is a straight fit into a later Gemini housing. 178mm holden salsbury center fits but there's something that needs to be modded cant remember what it is though. If you get the right Hilux housing you wont need to shorten it if you run the right offset wheels.

Every Gemini I've been in made that noise also. My Te was the worst when it was auto going from park to drive was shocking.

Depends if the injector drivers in the Link can handle it. Have a look at the specs if it says it supports PWM (pulse width modulation) it'll be able to run low impedance injectors.