RUNAMUCK

A sticker fixes all. Rust hole? Sticker over it. Illegal and dangerous bar, sticker! Is there anything they cant fix?

Good to completely remove all the rust from the get go. I gave up on sunny ownership due to the endless rust battles. Even tidy ones start getting bubbles in cunty to fix places.

Last car i ran on cutties refused to self centre. I think it was the crooked load on the top cup causing the thrust bearing to bind up. Wofs were a cunt.

Does rhe spindle of your lathe not have a large enough throat to fit the shock in to shorten it? Thats i all did in the last shitbox i lowered.

Regarding your engine woes, there was a clever fellow who used to post on a forum which i used to frequent. He once reckoned that these motors made more power with a smaller oversize due to bore wall deflection. Given youre going to be forcing it down it its throat, (and you gotta build a new engine anyway) that might be a consoderation when selecting your replacement block.

Put the supercharger on the goldwing motor.

Aliexpress is a goldmine for silicon fittings at the price they should be

Spit on it?

Part of the adjustment involves having the upright link rod (which is adjustable) set so that with an (i forget what size) drill bit through the holes in the pivot arm which bolts to the back two bolts on the left hand side of the manifold they line up. (Youll see the holes, and click, ah, thats what theyre for) sometimes the standard adjustment gets cocked over by an aftermarket manifold. Although your edlebrock LD4B was available through direct connection back in the day. (Mine has a chrysler part number on it) so youd hope* that its not too dissimilar in fitment to a factory item. Lots of higher rise manifold cock things about. The kickdown arm on the trans controls the line pressure to (i think) the kickdown band servo* *dont take as gospel And if its not set right, shit slips and frictions burn up.

Hey, ive got a detailed torqueflite book you can borrow if you like? Aside from the pan filter, both band adjustments, and nd the kickdown, there's not a fuck of a lot you can alter on them without stripping it on the bench. Hit me up if you wanna grab it. Its at dads, but i can get him to bring it to town.

Bravo sir. Now, do a skid......

Depending on what its been painted with, (a lot of never caravans are powder coated) an arm destroying saturday with a tin of repo extra cut does wonders for a caravan.

So, i know a guy who makes things from aluminium. My radiator was getting a wee bit dozey in the fins. I pulled it out, and dropped it off to his house. This was the result.

Im not sure her indoors will be overly chuffed about randoms showing up while im in another town, getting OTP with OS's crown prince of sex pesting?

If you buy rego at the cheaper rate, and then transfer it to the proper one, you have to pay the difference.

Ive seen cunts daily-ing dereg cars. No wof, no reg, no worries.

Its because they want everyone to cycle/ride the loser cruiser. You wont need a car to live in your 15 minute city. Live in your pod, and eat ze bugs.......

Fuck this is gonna be lit!

150(ish) Days!!

This is a most disadventagous choice of dates. That weekend im scheduled to be pesting in another part of the mighty Te Waiponamu. Ill be sharning up a storm and sinking wanker beers with one of spam threads more notorious OS 1337 GCs. Please get offensively drunk, and someone spin an impossibly protracted and convaluted sharn in my absence. And know that although the rear window of a 1996 toyota surf is unlikely to rate a mention, that ill be there in spirit........

Brother, be forewarned! You are teetering of the precipice of the ultimate Barry rabbithole. But its okay, ive been down there, so you dont have to. Some years ago, i repowered my childhood go kart with a 5hp briggs. In my research, i discovered a forum, dedicated to these engines. The Wisconsin Karting federation have a class just for them. I did some reading, and learned a lot. Firstly, mine had a thread in the exhaust port. Reportedly they go better with the pipe screwed in. (The ex port diameter is too large for optimal performance) naturally the shape where the pipe ends (inside the block) is also critical. They were all about a threaded sleeve that screwed into the ex port to narrow it down. (This may, or may not be "class legal" for the stock engine class. Theres also an optimum length for the pipe too. (Seeing as its just a straight pipe, its not hard to make) my memory isnt what it once was, but it was 12" or 14". There are two types of 5hp blocks. The cast iron sleeve ( industrial motor) and the full alloy "cool bore" block. The alloy bore motor needs a piston which has been hard chromed. Otherwise the two soft metals gall each other. Theres also two varieties of side cover. one has a bearing, and th other the crank shaft just runs on the aluminium casting. The greatest weakness is the lubrication system. Theyre splash fed. Theres a sheet metal "dipper" bolted to the conrod cap bolts. This splashes the oil up to where its needed. Reportedly at apporox 4000rpms, this breaks off. And shortly there after the conrod snaps in two. And you get a window in the front of the block. (They say you can change the parts, and use pop rivits and RTV to make the block go another roound) Better parts have the dipper cast into the rod cap. Believe it or not, there is (or at least was) untold aftermarket parts available. Wiesco pistons, carrillo rods, brand name camshafts. You can even get aftermarket billet blocks. (I think theyre called blockzilla 3?) Now im sure youre only interested is the basic stuff to begin with. Firstly that pipe is a negligable cost improvement. And as tempting as it might be, dont shave the head. The air speed is highest up near the roof of the chamber. Skimming the head to try bump compression will hurt the flow. Looking at the block with the head off, youll see an "eyebrow" between the valves and the cylinder. You can grind with down the cylinder wall, almost to where the top ring sits at TDC. Again the air speed is low down here, but its a free mod for moar power.

I use Nic and Christchurch automotive services. He lives just around the corner from me. Works from a workshop in his back yard. Super nice bloke, and dies good honest work at a fair price. Hes who I pay to do all the cunty jobs I cbf with. (Most jobs on modern cars, bar oil changes and brake pads basically)

Rotary counterweights. I have a counterweight from an N/A 13b. Which part of the engine is this matched to? The rotors? I also have the flywheel off the same motor. That has some pretty significant counterweight machined into it too. Would I sell these parts together?