SYKOV6

ive got a hi stalled and shift kitted auto in the corty. the hi stall is a little iffy for round town use as they tend to slip at lite throttle openings. not sure about the c3 but i had a shift kitted c4 in a mk3 4.1 corty i used to race in the 90s. it keeped blowing the standard box so i put the c4 in was haeps stronger but took a little more hp to run and slow the car down about 1/2 sec over the 1/4. definatly b the way to go if your serious about the drag strip. go for a stage 2-3 shift kit as a full manual valve body is not as nice to drive requireing manual shifting all the time[no drive mode] my box has a stage 3 kit and a 3000 rpm convertor and will chirp the tyres on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift on anything over 1/2 throttle. under full throttle it shifts so hard that the glove box lid flips open and steering wheel centre cap flys off youll need to get a custom convertor specially made for your combination as a 3000 stall on a v8 would turn into a 1000 stall on a 4 as the 4 does not have the torque off boost to slip the convertor. you also need a good trans cooler if using a hi stall as the extra slip also makes extra heat.

cam sorry mate, got a bit carried away, atropine hit the nail on the head if turbos are so great then why dont ya see fuelers or funny cars with them. i wasnt baggin turbs i driven plenty of real qik turb cars and i quite like that boostin feeling i was just stating a fact . i didnt mean to ruffle any feathers dave

i would think it prob wouldnt be too far from that 150ks a week in traffic about 60-70 bucks maybe. as long as ya didnt try to have a drag at every set of lights. if the motor doesnt have super high ks on it its prob the valve guides . the heads dont have hardened valve seats and suffer from valve seat resession due to unleaded fuel. parts for 1st generation small blocks are cheap and easy to get. the only prob is that these engines are almost 40 years old and most have been recond once or twice in their lives. this means that the block and crank are usually on their last grind or bore. most blocks can go to 40-60 thou oversize[1-1.5mm] and cranks can go to 30thou undersize. once past these limits they are buggered. they can be sleeved etc but most engine reconditioners wont guarantee them like that. if you are looking at a second hand engine ask if ya can pop the sump and have a look for obvious signs of wear ie lip in the bore ,scuffing of the bores

the chevy small block started in 1955 as a 265 and has grown over the years to a 400 all share the same basic block and heads though the 400 does have a slighly taller block. hey cam the next time ya see a 5000hp turbo car take a picture and send it to me . there is a reason why top fuelers have 500cubes and a blower. THEY MAKE MORE POWER! when we bulit my chevy v6 we bored it out 60thou [1.5mm] taking the cubes from 229-236 my engine has the same bore and stroke as the 283. while the chevy smallblocks all look the same from the out side 327-350 have a larger bore thus the inside of the block is more heavy duty

as a what 350 a stocker or a stroked and bored one? as they are basically the same engine the same mods would bring the same amount of unreliability. a stock 283 would be as reliable as a stock 350 . a modded 283 or 350 would therefore be the same reliability wise. its just that your making more power from the 350 due to more cubic inches and as we all know cubes make power

theres nothing wrong with a 283 they are no less or more reliable than any other chevy smallblock v8 they are essentially the same as a 350 most parts are interchangeable. the 283 just has a smaller bore and stroke. 2nd hand motors are a bit cheaper than the very popular 350. they can make good power and will rev a bit harder than a 350. its just personal choice. if your after outright horsepower then go the 350 or 400 . if all u want is a reliable v8 that goes well and makes the right noises go the 283. prob a bit more economical too

nah matte/flat is not the same as satin satin is 30%gloss i think and matte is flat ie no gloss. spray can matte is shit . if ya gonna paint it matte buy some proper matte paint and spray it with a gun

have seen a alt set up on the drive shaft for that reason too many revs /torque bustin the accessories off the front of the motor. the drive shaft is more stable and able to have a short belt[no whip]. cleans up the engine bay too . have ya tried underdriving the alt? putting a larger pully on the alt slows it down decreasing the load on it this also works good on the water pump slowing it down helps it cool better by stopping it cavitating at high revs dave

the reason ya plumbing went all soft is that when ya took the rad cap off ya let all the pressure out! cooling systems run under pressure because water boils at a higher temp when under press. in the open air water boils at 100 degrees c under pressure it wont boil until about 130 degrees. have you checked your rad cap if it is old or the spring/seal is damaged it wont hold press resulting in the water getting blown out as the coolent gets hot and expands. thus filling up the overflow and overflowing that as well as the coolant cools down it contracts and sucks the water back into the rad. check your temp sender it may b shot. hook up a aftermarket temp guage and see what temp its running at. most cars run at about 82-86 degrees if the cooling systems is working properly. hope that helps dave

ive seen a mitsi sapporo coupe [like galant ] with a 1600 turb i thought they were all 2 litres so they are out there. adapting another makes manifold and injection set up wouldnt b too hard have seen a pinto with toyota manifold and turbo grafted on in mk1 esky rally car. prob just have to buy a link computer to make it all go

what would a n/a pinto run for advance. my chev v6 runs 15 deg static with a total of 38-40 if i retard it to say 10-12 it goes flat as and couldnt pull the skin off a savaloy

5/16 or 7.5 mm line would prob support about 350hp most v8s only have this size. any cutting out or whatever is prob caused by a restriction somwhere eg fuel filters or line fittings

yeah i agree too youd have to b to stick a muffler like that on a esky . would look a lot better if it was higher and hidden more

it depends on what else youve done to the exhaust eg extractors, larger pipe etc just sticking one on a stock system aint gonna make fuck all diff except make it a bit louder

the only power they gain mate is the power to pull themselves faster thinking theve gained 5 hp

if your rad cap is stuffed it will not hold pres and will blow the coolant out. another good sign the a head gas has gone start up the car and take the rad cap off if you get a geyser of coolant or heaps of bubbles then it could b blown. have a look at ya oil if its milky then its got coolant in there its prob blown between a coolant passage and an oil gallary

some of the early pacers and the like only had 3 speed gearboxs first gear was quite tall and could easily do that

i used to have an RX2 with a 13b bridgy it could do 120 in 2nd and 180 in 3rd at 8500 pretty knarly when it came to stopping it though

jezz no wonder i was scared as anyone whose ever been that fast in a mk2 corty will attest

roughly translated a 3.55-1 diff = 3.55 turns of the driveshaft = 1 turn of the axle there are a few variables eg what gear your in and the size in dia of your tyres but most eskys with a 3.45 diff and a 4 speed gear box and 13in rims will do roughly 3200rpm-3500rpm in top gear at 100ks. most 4 cyl cars have quite low ratio diffs because they donot have a lot of hp they need a low ratio eg 4.11-1 to give the engine the required leaverage to drive the car forward at a reasonable pace. whereas 6 / 8 cyl cars have a lot more torque and can push a taller ratio eg 3.08-1 for the same effect as the other car. as 6/8 cyl cars generally do not have a high revving engine the top speed is not much higher than the 1600 esky with a low diff and may in fact have slighly less acceleration . more or less thats how it works very simple there are a lot of variables between makes and models so this theory is not acurate for all applications

when i first got the corty it had a 2.79 diff in it but ive seen 2.5 ratio 9in diffs

hey james work this one out i took the corty to napier the other night gave it a wind up was pulling 6500 rpm with 3.55 diff and 590mm tyre dia top gear is 1.1 was still pulling real strong but i got scared and took my foot off it

in actual fact you hardly notice a locker on the open road its just mainly round town when ya have to turn sharp and turn while goin slow eg parking thats a prick but ya do have to watch it in the wet. the first time i drove the corty in the rain i took off from the lights and soon as it came on cam it lit the tyres up and almost spun me round

speeding can to . so can gettin a blowy from ya misses

whats dangerous about flipped leaves and locked diffs? are flipped leaves illegal? i know locked diffs are but i cant see why