R100

Ive fitted a rotary to a 1978 lancer. Whats your main reason for upgrading the brakes ? I know the factory brakes work more than adequitly. Just need to upgrade your pads in the front and use new brake fluid. Unless your thinking of doing circuit racing then id definatly replace them !

Its designed to heat up the throttle body to avoid icing. You dont need to connect them up unless you live in the north pole. Ive disconnected these pipes in the past and havnt had any issues, Just my opinion though

A bit off topic but whats a BOV for ? Has anyone even proven they do anything except make a woosh pfffft noise ? Ive had cars with and without them (same cars) and theres no noticable difference, no difference in quarter mile times either. I know the priciple behind them but is there any benifits ? Something to think about.....

Up for sale now ): viewtopic.php?f=14&t=19985&p=457940#p457940

After selling the car last year the new owner finished it off. He tells me it goes pretty hard.

I like it.

A bit more progress today. Basic frame now completed. Went to undo spark plugs and they both snapped of in the head ! Had to drill them out. Will dismantle the rest of the engine/ box next week to see what parts i need to order from Japan. Frame has been stretched by approx 200mm

I bought this last week for $120. Its a 1978 Suzuki GS400 twin. After getting it home i found the engine was seized. Pulled the engine down and found that it had been sitting so long the valves had seized, on top of that it needs new pistons, a rebore, new cam chain, cam sprockets and tensioners. My plan is to make it into a bobber. Main mods include removal of the rear suspension to make it a hard tail and lower the ride height. Heres a picture of it when i picked it up and after i got the grinder out..

Some of you would of seen this befor. I bought it off Alister with an ungoing 6 cylinder and 5 speed. > viewtopic.php?t=13337 Since then then i purchased a 1uz and set about fitting it. I got a bellhousing and steel flywheel off A1 turbos. Toyota Custom made my own engine mounts and drivers side exhaust header as it was a bitch to get them to clear the steering. Exhaust is just twin 2" into a single 2 1/2" pipe. Car has cert, rego and WOF Ive left it standard hight with factory wheels etc. Its goes mint, all the dash lights, guages, rev counter etc are conected up. Car has been finished for the past 6 months and is a great daily driver.

All i can find on this computer is my old Avenger. It ran a GM471 with microtech ECU best ET of 13.8 with 185-14 tyres and standard diff I have tones of other pictures, sorry the below pictures are poor quality. Will post up pics of my RX929 with a GM471 and twin Niki 4 barrels aswell as my Blown B1600 ute when i find the disc with all the pics on it.

I have built 4 supercharger set ups over the years using GM style blowers on rotaries. Both injected and carby, hopefully I can pretty much answer any question you need to know. Have never done a bridgported engine tho, dnt see a problem with it but not sure if it will still pulse as the blower will put a slight load on the engine. Will see if i can find some old pictures or my inventions lol I built my first set up back in 1997 !!

Been a while since i last posted but have made some progess on it. New subframe now fabricated with Engine and gearbox now mounted in place. Car is back on its wheels and rolling. Had a turbo mounted in there for a while but decided to keep in N/A as the engine bay looks much cleaner without turbo pipes and intercooler etc. This project has been painstakinglystressfull. What a friggin mission. Not what i first thought. But ill just keep plugging away at it till its finished.

A 2 door eg33 impreza RWD with toyota 5 speed conversion is on my list of things to do....

Just finished building this for a mate. Its a 1995 Legacy wagon. Standard Toyota 1UZ with auto and factory ECU running both engine and trans. RWD only running standard suby diff (yet to see how long it lasts) Been cruzing round in it allday. Runs and handles great. Sounds like a dirty old HQ with its 3" exhaust and single rear muffler. Been building it with certifier keeping a close look and so far hes happy. Will post up some finished pics in the next few days.

Could just do what i did and slap a 1UZ in one. Some of you may of seen it befor as i built it about 4 years ago. Main reason i did it was to prove it could be done. All in all a great conversion. Handled well and went pretty hard. Alot of work though. Can run through the whole conversion in cluding diff swap if anyones interested. I have some finished pics of it somewhere but the pics below are all i could find at the moment. I have since sold it and it now runs NOS and is a consistant 12 sec car.

I have a V6 commy engine in my escudo. They go pretty well for what they cost. I bought a complete running rusty VN commy for $190 to use the engine for my escudo. It now has a bathurst performance chip and bigger throttle body, headers and a shift kitted auto. Will do 14.9s allday long lol. Not a rocket ship but was never built to go fast. The earlier (non ecotech) V6 engine have a steel sump with the bulge at the front. being steel they can be easily modified rather than the all alloy ecotech V6's The engine wiring loom is real simple and easy to wire up the factory ECU.

Your lucky, I have a two piece in my cressida. The cert guy made me fit 2 loops, one for each driveshaft. Dumb. I guess each certifier is different.

Steel Surgeon in Ryan Place Manukau. They are right behind Manukau Vehical Service Center. He specializes in steel wheel widening. Does a great job too.

Thanks for the comments. Yup its one of Robs bodies. The engine is totally standard. The 1600 produces around 60hp. Not alot but in a car that weighs around 650kg it goes ok. I will build a new one later this year. Have just purchased an IRS gearbox and rear end. Will fabricate my own chassis rather than cutting down a VW beetle one. Id like to build it to sit real low with a 2 liter donk, twin down drafts etc.

Had this for a while now but decided to wait till its finished befor posting pics. Problem is project cars never really are ever finished. So here goes. 1965 Meyers Manx SWB buggy. Stock 1600 twin port engine. Weld superlight mags 15x10 rear and 15x5 front. Mickey thompson ET steets on rear 12.5x26x15 Everything either replaced or new on this build. I did not build this from scratch, all i have done is build a new rear cage, fitted mags and tyres, fitted a hard top, race seats and custom built the car audio system. Would like to continue modifying it but due to the extent of mods ive decided im better off starting again.

Been busy on other projects last week so not much progress to look at. I did however buy a new engine as the one i had was a D15B vtec-e which is the red headed child of the honda family of vtecs, not a true vtec as we know it as it was designed as an ecomony engine. It also has a smaller intake manifold and produces 105hp stock. The gearbox it was mated too has "economy" gearing, with long ratios for highway cruzing. Nooooo Goood. My new engine a true vtec with 130hp stock and matching 5 speed. Purchased a TD04 turbo for aswell. Old engine and new black top engine below.

Not much interesting happended yesturday, still trying to get the engine to fit nicely. Had to cut a chunk out of the firewall to allow the intake manifold to clear. Also cut the subframe up a bit more. Engine is now sitting about where i want it. CV's are linning up and looks as tho ill have more room in my engine bay than i first thought. Below is the top view of the hole ive cut, intake manifold fits nicely now. And from under the dash. Below pic shows CV's now linning up better now, not quite where i want them yet. Engine just didnt quite fit so needed to chop out inner guard. If it was 15mm shorter it may of fit. Will not interfear with wheel tho.

Cut subframe up today and bolted in the rear half (the part that holds the suspension) then dropped engine in to check clearances. Looks like i will need to cut a heap more away yet. If you look close you will see the honda CV needs to move back approx 50mm. At the moment the rear of the gearbox is hitting on the subframe. I can get it to sit back further with a little more grinding i think. Pretty close on this side too (passenger LHS) Going to remove this bulge from the bulk head to give more clearance for manifold. The hight the engine is sitting below is pretty much the hight it will be sitting at. The bottom of the sump is inline with the bottom of the floor. Good clearance in front of the motor for a turbo as well, not much room for anything else tho.

Front subframe comming out, this is going to need some seriuos cutting/modifying to get the Honda engine to fit. Empty engine bay looks real big with no subframe or suspension components. If i have to cut to much steel away from the original subframe i may consider building a tube front, similar to a drag car. Subframe on the bench getting ready to strip off suspension components.

Well yeah i let all the fluid out of the smellydrolastic suspension yesturday to remove the front subframe. Befor... After... You cant beat the look of a slammed out old school car !! Im seriuosly going to consider air bags in this.