Ke36

yea mate just got his hole dash from his ke30 retrimed at patricks for a very good price

sweet will check that shit, pretty sure the top hats are even the car sits even height wise but for some farked up reason (can only b weight i guess) i have to have it wound down 10mm or so on the left side to sit at the same even possible when my threaded tubes for the spring perches were welded on it something isnt right?but would think the spring would just be a little bent if its not 100% aslong as the shock goes up straight

yea i figured a little discrepensy (sp?) was ok but a deg seemed a whole lot to me il start with the lower arms after them where do i go next?

yea im guna go have a yarn to the guy that did the alingment, he is pretty switched on and does a fair number of race cars etc down here , wheel alingment is pretty much the only thing he does so im at a loss to think he either missed it or has muddled it up the way i see it the only two things that could affect it are the lower arm or the strut (im also guessing if anything is stuffed its my passenger side as thats the one that is a deg different to yours) but again everything else is brand new and the strut and lower arm didnt have any damage etc on them from what i remeber that would cause it if it is just a natural differenc that is stuff all ill def be getting some top hats sorted to even it up

ive got s14/15 non turbo rears on mine with bluebird discs

i dont think that its meant to have more camber for the curve of the road heres triggas whell alingment sheet with his same suspension setup his is much more equal and to boot its his right side which is slighlty more negative his is essentially the same setup as mine possibly bent lower arm or strut?the only things that could really affect?

after having a look at triggers post about his lancer getting his wheel alingment done i thought id dig up my old sheet showing the specs of what mine measured up to and i notuiced something i hadnt even noticed the first time basically it says my left front wheel has -2.37 deg of camber while my right front wheel has only -1.23deg of camber firstly the difference is a worry to me and secondly how the hell can one side be so different to the other?(none of my setup bar the springs is adjustable) bent something?surely the guy should have picked up on the difference? heres the actual printouts

yo are your starion front struts/lower knuckles out of car? im keen as to get som rca's made up for my lancer so was thinking i should convince you to get some too, that way i dont have to take my shit out plus we may get them done cheaper

keen but also depends on price etc

i can tell you now that plate aint going anywhere, ever

Hell yeah, springs on internal are the shit! Internal wastegate holding 21psi on the starlet Screamers off internals are for rb20s. edited for the truth

seen this out n about a few weeks back looks very nice mate

chur i just spent the last goodknows how long sifting through shit on toymods but couldnt get much as w58 etc is too short to be counted in a search

so wanting to know what the differences between all the w series toyota boxes are from what i can find so far they are all the same (stregth, design etc) except for gear ratios? with 55 being completely different and w57/8 just having a different 5th? are all the gbox - bellhousing patterns the same?as i am going to need a to run an aftermarket bellhousing and does anyone know (or know anywhere that lists) gearbox-bellhousing mating surface to shifter lengths so i can work out which one i need to get it close to stock position as possible

plz divulge (sp?) plans in here keen to see what ur ideas are as most likely similar to mine we need to have a race sweet skid

ME i ended up using starion tierods (all of em) and the starion spacer (bit between the inner and outer tierod) that goes on the passenger side there all a bit longer i had the same issue as you except mine pointed outwards heaps

sorry man not my setup so unsure, was built buy a mitsi guy (who knows his stuff) the only issue with a setup like this though is the welding, you cant cheap skate or take shortcuts on it or it will crack the reason guys do it this way is it keeps the flow for the air you are bleeding off at the best angle alot of people think there wastegate isnt working etc and they need a bigger one due to crappy mounting on a manifold and the air having to do a rediculous 90+ deg turn to bleed off through the gate which is never going to work well this way the flow is much better so it will be more effective thegreatestben as eke said you just take circlip off and remake a dowel aligning hole for it, drill or i just notched my comp cover with a file and slam it back on

heres another way to do it like what gaz was talking about however i agree with what steve says (i cant believe i just fucking said that ) as far as what brock was talking about with the other wastegate, if the internal is not doing the job properly then putting an external further away through the same hole is unlikely to fix the problem as your still trying to flow x amount of air through the same diameter hole, which doesnt fix the issue

heres a big disscussion on ausrotary bout running no bov http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17113

So if im maxing out a turbo for what its capable of producing in my case a standard Rb25 turbo at 212kw, is it likely that the standard internal wastegate wont be up to it? I only ask as the computer & engine i have now was dynod for that figure, the only difference was that he had an external wastegate of the exaust. Im keen on going back to internal wastegate to keep things simple and get a better turbo in with less play at the same time. Cheers boe having only read this last page power isnt what causes overboost issues its flow usually a hi boost hi power figure wont cause any boost creep/spike issues as most of the exhaust flow is getting directed through the turbine wheel anyway so the internal is able to flow the relatively small (if any) amount of air it is required too its when you want low boost levels from a setup that can flow (exhaust etc) much higher numbers that an issue seems to arise for some info that youl like to here as it realtes directly to the turbo ur using the rb25 turbos dont seem to have much of an issue, have had a fair few number of mates with 3 inch dump pipes running around 12psi -14psi (which is close to the max for the ceramic wheels) and the internal gates where solid as a rock as opposed to the likes of the early evo turbos which overboost shockingly with a 3 inch dumppipe

saaaaawwwweeeeeeeeeettt wat was the mad leak that killed it when you put ur hand over it? bet ur grinning from ear to ear

yea iv found they suck balls too, gbox swap is next on my list aswell

what was the cutting issue in the end?

usual option is to make your car suit the hydraulic clutch of the gearbox you are putting in thats what i would be doing especially if it is any sort of performace application

given that it happened when you changed the battery the day after you got it tuned id be leaning towards it has something to do with the tune if not its a damn annoying coincidence does it always happen at certain engine conditions i.e no load coasting after accel? maybe something to do with returning to closed loop?? or a fucked/loose sensor killing a feed ?