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Carsnz123

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Everything posted by Carsnz123

  1. electric or visco fan? car make/model/year? At idle engine bay temp air shouldn't make any difference. Radiator could be in need of a clean.
  2. Probably not. I'm a believer of fixing shit properly (most of the time). Seal will be fucked so I'm sorry to say but you'll have to pull the bitch out and replace shit.
  3. I've been slowly swapping all bulbs in my vehicles for Phillips +150% bulbs. Bit over $80 of a pair. Bloody good improvement. don't draw much extra current either ~10%
  4. Yes but I think I'll reinforce the gearbox mount first. @JustHarry and @Slacker_Sam. know how rough it looks. And maybe rebuild a gearbox seeing as karls car keeps breaking them.
  5. Sunday I was a little slow getting going after the late night but the show must go on. I bolted the gearbox support brackets on which i'd neglected to do while the engine was out, bolted on the slave cylinder and bleed it. New clutch felt good. I used the front half of the driveshaft out of the sedan I nicked the trans out of to get a good center bearing and to use the yoke that had been in the trans for 233k. The r30 driveshafts are odd with a large diameter front section and the rear section being 2/3 the diameter. Next was fitting the reconed radiator which I found Brendan had soldered a 20c coin over one of the holes left by the now removed trans cooler. When I picked it up he said it was an original core in very good condition but about 30% blocked so it was worth getting it checked. Had to slot the holes on the fan shroud so it cleared the fan for some reason. The C32 bottom hose fitted like a glove and the top one just needed 75mm taken out of the middle so naturally them being in usable condition and to save me going and getting new ones they were fitted using hose clamps I stole off a couple of the wrecks. Wasn't sure what condition the heater core was in so I just looped the feed and return hoses on the engine. While I was filling the diff, transmission, and engine with oil and fitting a new filter i noticed the engine didn't have an oil cooler. Another thing to fit at a later date. Because none of the wires are labeled and all are a bit of a mess It was a little entertaining finding out which did what. I worked out the starter trigger, glow plug, and IP cut which was enough for the moment. The R30 wagon wreck donated it's fuel filter mount and the C32 its filter housing and for the moment the fuel filter (it was water free and clean). A lawnmower fuel tank was plumed in for a temporary fuel supply and with a battery it coughed into life. yay. Before taking it off the stands the brakes were bleed and the clutch slave another check. It was then rolled outside to fill the cooling system and left idling to bleed the air out. Now I could finally take it for a short blast. And short it was..... about 100M. I'd neglected to plumb the fuel return line into the temporary fuel tank so it was firing the excess fuel out the back of the car where the fuel tank should have been. So I ran out of fuel pretty quick. It sounded awesome with the exhaust exiting a foot from the manifold. Being late and I still needed to drive home it was pushed into the garage. Hopefully WOF next week.
  6. Last week I took my transmission and fuel tank to work to fix. Welded up the crack in the tank and then pumped a few PSI of air into it to check for leaks which there were none. I also replaced the input and output shaft seals in the transmission and the front housing gasket in an attempt to reduce the oil leaks. I replaced the rear main seal on the engine too so hopefully the new clutch shouldn't get any oil on it. The weekend's goal was for it to run and drive. Saturday I picked up the new clutch kit and machined flywheel plus a new clutch slave cylinder as all mine were locked up solid and no chance of moving. Removed flex plate from engine, changed rear main, and then came changing the spigot bush. It was in bloody tight, so much so that the usual trick of pack it with grease and hammer a drift in didn't work. Even when I gave it a solid wack with a mallet it just ignited the grease and fired the bolt out. Yeah turns out you can ignite grease with compression. I resorted to cutting a groove in it with a die grinder to relieve the tension and hooked it out. New bush went in with a few taps of a hammer. Flywheel, clutch, and transmission bolted up no issues. Did a few other things, spun the car around in the garage to use the engine crane, had a little tidy up, and then it was engine fitting time. Attempt 1: picked engine up and found it was 180 degrees around on the crane. Put it down and changed the attachment points. picked engine up and slotted into the engine bay. With the engine hard against the firewall the mounts didn't meet by 40mm. Took engine back out and measured the distance between engine and gearbox mounting points and the respective places on the car. It was off by a bit. Turns out I had the the wrong engine cross member. Pulled correct one out of wreck in the dark. Then whilst cleaning it off it was noticed I had a better condition one sitting on the wood bin next to me being used to weigh the cover down. Fitted that and tried again. Attempt 2: Guided engine into engine bay. Was getting hung up on something and not fitting in. Crawled under car and found the sump was hitting the cross member. Took engine back out. Turns out that even though an R30 and C32 are both front sump the sumps are different. Went and found a skyline sump I had that had a dent in it but was usable and hammered some of the dent out. Took sump off engine and made sure the oil pickup was correct. Gave the skyline sump a bit of a clean with brake cleaner and cleaned both gasket surfaces. Fitted Skyline sump to the engine with RTV sealing it in lieu of a gasket. Cleaned diesel oil off tools and tried again. Attempt 3: Slotted engine into engine bay and it fitted like a glove. Finally. The engine mounts took a little levering to get the dowel pins to slot in place correctly but at 11:45pm it was off the crane and bolted in place. Did a couple other small jobs then pushed the car properly into the garage and called it a night at 1am.
  7. As long as you have proof of ownership it will be piss easy. Just take for re vin inspection.
  8. @KKtrips Buy LD28 VK on Tard. Ill even go pick it up for you.
  9. Damn and I thought I was silly playing with 30 year old Diesel engines
  10. I Inspected my purchase the next morning. Pretty lush spec car with a smooth running LD28. The 'Driveline Imports' sticker on the engines cam cover suggests its had an engine change at some time. Of cause i had to load test the engine before it was removed. Forgot to take more pics but basically the engine came out of the car. Didn't have a clutch so couldn't fit it to the skyline. Did some other shit to the front suspension and now it should drive in a straight line. Dropped radiator into shop today to be cleaned. Things are happening @RUNAMUCK
  11. Potato pic update Picked up Laurel on Friday evening. The Diesel 260C was towing quite happily at 90. A bit smokey getting up to speed. Then I decided to pull off to allow traffic to pass. I miss judged how close to an island I was. Heard a bang and thought a tyre had blown. Nope. Had to get @JustHarry to bring another trailer and tow vehicle. The car was swapped the car to the other trailer and the wheels were taken off the bent axle. we must of looked shifty or something because the community patrol rolled up wondering what was happening.
  12. Waddaya mean by charging issue? Battery going flat? Those number seem ok. A little on the soft side with the lights on.
  13. Is that 2 parts white spirits one part atf or other way around? Reminds me I did a similar mix of diesel, atf, white spirits and poured it into a locked up engine. That was over a year ago. Must se what it has done.
  14. The next issue was that the current stock of LD28s in the garage refused to start even with a little persuasive squirt of start ya bastard. looks like I'll have to learn how to rebuild diesel pumps and injectors. Because time is short I looked for running LD28s for sale. Looked at a couple that supposedly ran when parked but had been sitting outside uncovered for ages. Finally found one for a reasonable price and sounded promising when cranking over. Picked it up a day later and managed to get it to start in the shed with no effort. I think the stem seals might need doing though. When I picked it up the seller had organised his mate with a small hiab truck to load it. After the engine was loaded on the trailer he told me he had a LD28 powered C32 laurel that he was looking to get rid of. Apparently too much rust for a wof and dead rego but was running in the last few months and doesn't burn oil. Did a deal sight unseen (aside from a photo on a phone) and I'll test out the car towing capacity of Karls TD 260C on Friday when I pick it up in the dark. Seems to be a running theme with this project. @RUNAMUCK lent me some 17" wheels to try on that ,and I quote, "Looked the tits on my Cefiro". I kinda like them but they'll need spacer to fit the front. Still in two minds whether to use the twin headlight wagon front or the slat grill sedan front.
  15. The front suspension was half disassembled and missing some parts so I used the best bits out of 2 parts cars to assemble something that should pass a wof and do for the short term but new bushes and balljoints will be on the cards in the near future. The R30 suspension is really light weight. I had a look at the possibility of fitting an R180 IRS setup out of a sedan into the wagon. It's doable but will require some fab work fitting strut towers and the rear mount for the diff. So it's H165 solid axle for now. In order to get a set of rust free doors I nicked one of @- i5oogt -s cars and stole the doors with monsoon shields on them but I'll loose the snazzy 80's decals. And to get a transmission I had to remove it from the car it was in. And then I rear mounted the engine. Whilst moving it with the tractor I accidentally holed the sump and put dirty diesel oil everywhere. Fuck it's hard to get off concrete. Will have to attack with a steam cleaner next weekend. The cars dash says 233K which translates to just-run-in in LD28 terms but the transmissions drain plug shows a not so nice story. Might spin it up with the lathe full of diesel to clean it out. https://imgur.com/2grUuMK
  16. Update thyme. I'm a little slack as taking pics goes. Tried bleeding up the brakes with no success. Massive leak from the rear. Took drums off and it was pretty obvious what the problem was. Had to swap a drum off the parts car on after the steel shoe fucked it. There was also next to nothing left of the front pads. Fitted new rear shoes, wheel cylinders, and front pads. had to take corrosion off the drums with a bit of 60 grit sand paper. Right Left Dropping the fuel tank out exposed the damage which the trailer winch had done I also could see inside the car through holes in the floor which shouldn't have been there and once I cleaned out the boot I discovered water has been pooling around the outside of the sound proofing.
  17. Yes Thursday is bike night. No I'm not going to be there because bike has no WOF and its cold riding from Ashburton.
  18. FFS your WIFE had both of us on about buying endless shit from paddocks.
  19. Yes but it depends on your current load. You start getting very pricey for diodes that can handle large current. Another way of doing it is put a relay in instead that's powered up by the feed.
  20. Left foot brake and load up the torque converter for hard launch.
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