Carsnz123

Just now, rusty360 said:

@Carsnz123

I hear ya wire wheeling will be zero fun under there. Auto blast was about 1600 for memory

Fuck really??? what sort of hourly rate are they charging? Pretty sure i was quoted less than that to blast an entire cedric shell after I'd steam cleaned it. 

Would pay to get a quote for sandblast. Make sure its a company familiar with doing cars. Youll get  20 min into it with the wire wheel and realise its a massive ball ache. 

1 hour ago, RUNAMUCK said:

150hp? On what dyno? Was it in a hyperbaric chamber, with an atmosphere of pure oxygen?

Hasn’t been one one yet. That’s the goal following TRDs bible. Need to go see damo with some money for new carbs. 

1 hour ago, Nominal said:

Remember that 4AGE are 20 years old nowadays.

Nothing wrong with 20 year olds 

I'm sure @RUNAMUCK will pipe up soon with supercharger sharns and that the A series is the greatest engine second only to the Chrysler Hemi. You might also want to take driveability int to consideration too. I've spent $4k so far to make a toyota 3K push 150hp because I'm silly. Could easily do that with a 20V 4age for the same money, it would make power below 5000rpm, and probably last longer before needing an overhaul.  

Can I get a TLDR version of the last few posts @sr2 and @mjrstar

The Bloke at Under Car services on blenheim road has the most amazing stock of odd ball NOS master cylinders. I think the one i got for my cedric has made its way onto one of karls cars 

Any you'll also notice that the drift guys with well built cars have a dirty great vent closer to the front of the bonnet. 

I suspect an awesome injector rebuild will do it a world of good @brocky41 but it’s running currently so it will probably happen when it decide to run on less than 6 cylinder again. It’s a weird piece of crap that I can’t quite bring myself to make an honest effort to sell. That being said if I got made an offer I couldn’t refuse... well yeah. 

yes but its really spendy. Most likely would build it up and re grind it.  

So I still have this and quietly work away at it from time to time. During the Hanmer trip in 2018 it missfired quite a lot and was really only running on 4-5 cylinders (sometimes 6 but rarely). The Injector pump packed up fully a week later. I sent the IP away to get rebuilt and got it back a few days before Christmas 2018 along with a new timing belt and tensioner. The seals in the IP were old, hard, and not working like they used to. Also spent time painting the door frames, Fitting a 3.7:1 diff, removing rust, and resealing the Jurassic Park windows.  like usual I was a bit lazy with the pics. 

Yes they are an F series (or interchangeable enough) The A on the end means they are open.

B would indicate a torsion LSD.

A03A is 4.1:1

A04A is 4.3:1  

If you want LSD go flogg it out of an altezza. most of the manual 4 cylinder cars have a torsion unit in them. 

According to wheel side data yes the townace is 4x114.3

On 11/04/2020 at 17:30, japawagons said:

What I've learnt in Racecars is if everyone tells you it's a bad idea, it's generally a good idea.

I apply this to many aspects of my life and it hasn't worked in my favor very often

I'm doing a similar swap into my GS126V except both engines are AFM rather than MAP. The conclusion I came too is that the single cam cars run a different body loom to the twin cam cars. I've resigned myself to the fact that it will require some cutting and splicing of looms to get power where it needs to go there is only a handful of wires that need either constant or switched power. All be it I haven't touched the car for a couple years. Too many projects. 

This has some useful info if you haven't seen it already https://bluetwentyeight.wordpress.com/tech-docs/

On 24/09/2019 at 21:32, Geophy said:

Pity we dont have hills in Hamilton.

Lies. had to do a hill start on the steepest part of that slope near where @Truenotch lives... with a 2T trailer behind a late model Hilux. 

/Also keen for icecream. need to find an icecream place close to work tomorrow. 

Possibly get holes changed to suit slightly more common stem? 

http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/A40.pdf

took a bit of finding but this is a manual i came across a while ago. The bloody MS112's trans is playing up so may have to delve into it at some stage. 

For the 30s Rolls/Bentley engines we just used Morris running in oil. The run in procedure would be: take for decent drive with varying load. leave to cool down over night. Retorque head. repeat until gasket didn't squish any more. Change oil after 400kish. The rolls engines have a imperial fuck ton of 5/16 bsf studs to hold the head on which only get torqued to 18ftlb. Hence many retorques. 

Currently running the Crowns 7M in after a ring/bearing job. Got lucas running in oil in it but fuck that shit is half as much again as penrite. Been for a run over the hills, Towed skyline home across town, and had a bit of thashing/skids at the hands of Harry. Currently driving to work and back. head will get retorque and oil changed at 400k. and probably another recheck of the head at 800k because M series. 

The 3K which is next inline to be finished will be getting Penrite running in oil, drive up the tunnel road and back over dyres pass, and Probably a run to Akaroa to get a good run. retorque and oil change at 400k. just got to be careful of the cam as its been reground. K series aren't bad for picking up cam lobes though so should be fine.  

I dry ring engines with a smear of assembly lube on the skirts of the pistons. Every other moving part gets a good dose of assembly lube as well as packing the oil pump with either vas or assembly lube.  

Additional Barry fact: the center throttle layout was mainly due to a lack of space between the brake pedal and side of the body. Many left hook variants of the American cars we saw here in the 10s and 20s were conventional layout (clutch-brake-throttle).

Also be careful if you have to hone or bore the engine. I think these the deck surface is off square to the bores by 7 degrees. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure its the 7 they did some sillyness on. 

The basic formula is: 

L20ET manifold 

TD03 turbo 

10 psi 

wind fuel up

The L20ET manifold requires slotting of holes and a bit of port matching. The L28ET manifold doesn't without hogging a shit load of metal out of the head. No.6 does get hot with a turbo so an intercooler and clearing out your coolant passages would be a good idea. 10 psi is a safe level of boost and will give you more kick, decent fuel economy, and only reduce your engine life a bit. The fuel screw on your pump will need adjusting for more fuel but it will smoke like a train off boost. I have heard of people running 20psi but not sure how long engine lasted. 

We've had a shit load of fun with @- i5oogt -'s LD28T Cedric but due to a crap cooling system its been overheated 1 too many times and the engine is a bit sick. So keep it at a normal operating temp and EGT below 650c and you should be sweet. But just remember you will shorten your engine life.  

What side of CHCH are you on? I could come have a look after work one evening if you want. 

Has "Invite only" show to keep it classy 

Invites Ford Model As?

Bloody barrys 

Actually got it running on it's carb tonight. 3.5 cylinders but close enough. 

Finally got a spare moment to get pics on the interwebs 

Whats disappeared is the front structure on the right side for the suspension mounts and engine 

And holes where they shouldn't be. There is lots of rusty parts on the lower section but most of the stuff above the sills is pretty sound.