JustHarry

@sheepers did you have to clearance the block at all to fit the 7m crank in?

13:1 is pretty high for static I guess you already know you'll be on high octane fuel I think it would be worthwhile to keep the squirter to keep things cool . Will help prevent detonation having another cooling system Have you worked out what the dynamic compression is with your cams?

Did you have the valve body apart? The can get a bit gummed up in the ball valves/springs Like Clint says too kickdown adjustment plays a big part of how they shift too . Is the filter New? If it's getting worse there could be a blockage/clutch material in the filter. Not uncommon for a old trans that's been sitting to have the clutched fall apart

@Mr.Mk1 What's actually wrong with the trans? Like barts there's not much to go wrong with them other than stripping on the bench and putting bushes and clutches into it

I have the same multi meter as you

Yeah sounds pretty standard. Normally we'll sandblast stuff like that because that's what the repair certifies want to see these days. Compliance has got pretty brutal with surface and light rust lately. What's the car? And is it worth doing?

Yeah keen

Yes it's oil in the pores of the metal Prepsol/wax and grease remover might get it out Reblast is your best option

Did mcm in January Got another wof on this the other week. Also got some color mixed up to go over the primer. Ended up blowing the roof and bootlid to get the water marks out of it . Then put all the sil trims back on to make it look a bit tidyer . Had to use some urethane to hold some ends on where clips where missing Another pic lso surfaced of dad racing it at Littleton in the late 80s

Just because the fast idle works doesnt mean the enrichment works. Sounds like it has not enough enrichment when its cold and to much fast idle . If they have an accerlator pump you should be able to start it with a handful of pumps on the throttle before you crank and it should fire almost right up

It stops being paint if you add to much matting paste in. Glasi fo example is 40% max matting paste in the gloss 2k or It just doesn't dry. Not recommended to use any more then what the paint co recommends

Glasurit do a matte black 2k. Out if the tin spec Not sure where you are so not sure who the dealer would be. In chch ultra paints are the glasi reps

How would that work? If it doesnt pump fluid till the output shaft spins. Then even with the motor running itll never go in gear because its not moving so its go no line pressure

This Keep the speed down and it will be fine for 6k

So almost 2 years later the auto works now Got some average tyres swapped into the alloy wheels so they match . Will buy new tyres eventually. Gave the paint a polish and it came up pretty good from a distance Interoir has cleaned up mint for something that sat out in the sun for 15 years Went for a pub lunch sans wof and rego

Never paint epoxy over a rattle can product. If you've just got some overspray sorta stuff round your seams etc just clean it off. Most zinc rattle cans will wipe off with prepsol. Or thinners at the worst

Don't apologize Be better

Cant say I've had a problem running a filter before a low pressure pump. If the filter is affecting flow that much either the filter is to small or the pump is to small. Personally I'd rather keep any grit out of the pump

@ThePog for example I used phosphoric acid to clean the tailgate skin for @RUNAMUCK ute He can supply a pic of before I got it and how it looks now. It has keyphos on it

Google prepsol. It's a wax and grease remover The scotch brite is for scrubbing the surface clean of any rust after rinsing with water. I would paint strip any paint off or use mechanical stripping methods. Phosphoric acid is for getting the rust and shit off Glasurit metal cleaner 360-4 is what you need to use to get the metal properly clean for paint if it's a good job that matters. It's like prepsol on steroids. Dont breath the fumes lol. Use that with the scotch brite and the metal will shine up brilliant clean silver with no impurities Once its prepped you need to paint asap. Like same day spec

We use phosphoric acid regularly at work. Rinse with water because it's cheaper than meths but b quick with a prepsol and a scotch brite to clean the flash rust off. Doesnt takes a minit

Is it Factory chev powered or should it be a Pontiac 400?

There could be oil or grease in the seam above it that's leeching out. Not uncommon in engine bays Sometimes overdoing the prepsol can actually wick grease and oil out of seams If the base coat fisheyes again. Let it dry for about an hour till its dry to the touch and give it a scuff with some 400g then dust a few real light dust coats on the sanded area then one over the whole lot and clear it. Hopefully comes right

Dont drop the pressure to much. You still want around 2 bar When you narown the fan width the pressure at the tip increases so you need to adjust for that . Winding the product screw in till it only let's a small amount of product through prevents accidental runs from to much product

Is it an iwata w400? A normal size gun if fine for doing shuts . Narrow the fan up and lower the pressure and lower the product feed . There are knobs for doing that. If your unsure chuck a pic up and I'll point them out