moparmuppet
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Posts posted by moparmuppet
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But its an appreciating investment now
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22 hours ago, nzstato said:
That’s way more than I was expecting…. Have just used it to justify prior purchase as an appreciating investment….
Ha. Mine is identical to that Walker, complete with pitted wheels. When bidding was $650 Mum said "looks like you paid too much for yours" She has gone a bit quiet now.
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Gidday. Is there a solvent or something I should soak them in. Do I strip them down (remove nozzles) All new to me. Its easy to get at them now so makes sense if I should be looking at them to do it now. Chur.
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I inherited this from neighbor. No use for it. It would clean up ok. Let me know . Free. Hopefully you can see the potato sizes
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On 17/04/2022 at 16:07, JustHarry said:
What causes this?
It's on my ms65 crown. Internally regulated alternator that charges at 14v. It's always done it and it's pretty annoying
A cup of very hot water with a tablespoon of baking soda and your old toothbrush will clean it up. There are a couple of products to stop it coming back. Korode Kure (Repco?) or CRC Battery terminal protector. Don't know what does it. I suspect material of terminal (non lead) with a dusting of battery acid from fuming causing electrolysis across dissimilar metals. I haven't seen it happen on lead clamps. Supercheap do a wire brush terminal and post cleaner cheap. Worth cleaning terminals properly so the alt doesn't overcharge/ boil the battery trying to sense across high ohms connections.
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Ive just been watching a 3 x 45min documentary series on trucking in NZ that goes into the war surplus 6x6 GMCs etc. I found it on NEON but google says it was on Prime a year ago. "Truck files, A New Zealand story" Well worth watching for anyone that likes this thread.
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Neetsfoot oil is the jizz for leather. Just burn your rags when finished. Its worse than linseed for spontaneous combustion.
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14 hours ago, johnny.race said:
Sorry for the delay in getting this to you matey, been away. It appears our babies are Bro's of the first order! Hehe, cool!
Edit. I just reread what you were after, the sticker. That sticker has nothing on it. Not even something on there you can try and decipher - its a 2k paint sticker and that's it. Whatever was on there has long faded out. Cheers.
Cheers. My Dulux sticker is completely wiped as well. We all know how well Toyota Reds held up to the sun eh? Mates 93 Corolla is called British red but I thought it was base/clear, not solid. My build was 10/03/92, Chch. Not many solid colours without the stripe package about. Mainly metalics/stripes, in Nelson at least. Thanks again.
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@johnny.race Can I trouble you to posting a photo of the colour code sticker on the firewall of the 106 please. Assembled in Chch? My one is your twin, rubber mats, bench seat. Cheers.
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On 18/11/2021 at 08:43, Nominal said:
George was my father, Wayne Logan (in the first pic I think) had a red AH 3000 he restored. Max's last name escapes me right now, he moved out Pigeon Valley way
Max Barker lives 500m from me. Bit of a hermit. Rolls a LN107 he has had the 20 years I have been in the valley
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I've got a machine like these, Blue so probably Machinery house?. Instead of welding boxing on to stiffen, I made 2 plates of 50 x 10 about100mm long, drilled 16mm holes dead centre for a nut & bolt and sandwiched the jaws with it. you can slide it along to use as a fence and tighten it wherever. I put a steering wheel on as per above. I also braced the tag for the tension adjustment so I could crank into it a bit more, just a little angle brace of 20 x 20 or so. Mine was cheap without a base so its welded to steam pipe welded to a rim with scrap steel in the dish to give some heft.
If I actually did any work in the shed I could let you know whether the mods were worthwhile.
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Minis were always bad at earth wires not earthing. They would cook the throttle cable and choke cable using them as earth returns. I know you said you had cleaned them but there will be probably 2 of them and the one from the engine subframe to the bellhousing gets forgotten. A good check is to use your jumper lead from the body of the starter motor to the battery earth or a known good subframe earth. High resistance will cause lower cranking speed, voltage drop and heat. I assume Moke battery is under rear seat?
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As an aside to this game, When we are in the car and since black # plates are thin on the ground we play the Baa Baa game. First to see a Black Jeep yells.
Baa baa Black Jeep. Sad eh?
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Disembarking the SS Stalag on Saturday night. I will see how I go with finding something oldschool enough to drive if I am feeling alive enough. Would be nice to meet that @avengertiger weirdo since he is almost a neighbor. Time to put a name to a face of some of the other reprobates as well. I need to stop being such a hermit.
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On 12/07/2021 at 11:12, sentra said:
Ok - Next question -
I would like to figure out if my boat (jet - so 1 extra rpm is 1000 more hp and 100 extra kph) is limited to 2650rpm by the pump throttle arm travel limiter screw, or limited by it already being at max torque output. (Max rated rpm is 2800)
The screw is wound pretty much all the way "in" and has a security crimp tag on it.
So i should back the limiter/stop screw off a bit and see if the rpm's rise. An extra 150 rpm will be like 8 knots so i'm pretty keen to try as it only does ~25knots now.
It was built/owned by the airport rescue people who would be pretty conservitive, interestingly the hand throttle lever could only ever reach 75% of travel before being limited by the injector pump stop screw which i thought was really gammy and hard to drive so i modified the pivot point.
They make the "pleasure boat" version of this motor with a different turbo that makes an extra 150hp, so if the screw doesn't make it go faster ill swap the turbo.
Dunno about jet boat hulls but a normal hull has a cruising speed. you can tip double the juice down its gob and get 1/2 knot more speed.
also, the pleasure boat motor will probably have different cams, fuel pumps, injectors etc. as well as turbo. I have seen same series of motor in pleasure boat and Genset application. 60l sump and 50 hr oil changes, double the horsepower, 40% duty, vs 150L sump and 750 hr oil changes making 1/2 the power at 100% duty cycle. Apples aint apples. Just filled the day tank now, 9500L for 24 hrs on the 2 stroke diesel V8. What do you think about that greta
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Thanks to @sheepers in the random stuff you have done thread for above.
What media are you peeps using and where do you buy it please and thank you.
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made some mods to my sandblaster and its fucking cash.
so the old venturi suction sandblaster feed is a bit shit what with sand/media being really heavy and all. you need to run the biggest nozzle to get enough air flow to raise the sand and then there isnt enough velocity at the nozzle to really do fuck all once you do raise the sand up from the bottom.
so i made some mods to mine to effectively run a "total loss" sand system. it works mint.
so the sand sits in the funnel at the top and gravity feeds the handpiece. i can now run the smallest nozzle and the velocity is good so it removes rust/paint/crud quickly and really well.
the funnel full of sand lasts ages because you only need the small nozzle.
I've cantilevered the cabinet out off the bench so i can pull the bung and drain the media into the bucket, then just tip it into the funnel again. fuckin too easy.
i could run the thing without the bung probably, haven't tried yet.
visabality is good too with the vacuum stuffed in the side. the whole things is a win in my book.
2020-05-14_06-16-08 by sheepers, on Flickr
2020-05-14_06-15-59 by sheepers, on Flickr
2020-05-14_06-15-51 by sheepers, on Flickr
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Funny thing was running really good until Easter when I had a breakdown due to the float getting a hole and sinking and flooding it. Have replaced float and made sure the level is to the factory specs. Ever since then has had this issue.
Sounds to me like it was fine until the carbie shit itself so thats where I would be looking. Is the car idling the same with idle mixture screws at 0.5, 1 and 1.5 turns open? Tweaking them should make a difference to idle. How old is the fuel? A bit of condensation in the tank , water sitting in a main jet or porting? A litre of meths in the fuel tank for this. Throw some of NPDs finest 100+ in it. This cleared up issues with our Caddy without pulling anything apart. Good luck.
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A 13b Hunter?
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I used to own this a few years ago but it was blue then and only 2 wheel drive.
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On 30/05/2021 at 19:29, CarolsHusband said:
Crikey. That speed in Kiwiland would get you the pineapple with no lube.
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On 04/06/2021 at 09:15, johnny.race said:
I am pretty familiar with mucking around with the say 1984 through to the 1998 models of Lux. The LN65's and the LN106 shaped trucks. They are susceptible to being pinched and they are easy to take. Most people who own these types of trucks are aware of this point and modify their ownership habits to minimize the risk of it occurring. Well normal and on to it cunts do - the others are inviting shit to happen on their watch.
What I don't know (but would like to know) is what the later model Luxers have in the way of minimizing being stolen. They must have something due to the propensity of the earlier ones to being flogged. I am talking about the 2006 onwards shaped ones. The ones with the 1KD and ECU's running them. Are there built in security measures put into the ECU by Toyota to make things harder for a crook? I don't know much about ECU powered motor vehicles but thought I might want to own one one day - possibly a depreciating Lux, lol. Anyone?
Hey Race. Ive never been accused with being either normal or onto-it. Are you talking easy immobilizer type tricks to protect the Ln106? or just hiding it in a locked shed like I do? Ive got the twin to your solid red double cab . Bought off first owner 2 years ago at 140Km. PM me if you don't want to broadcast the tricks here. I was thinking of another hidden switch for fuel solenoid but peeps will think its for the speedo and a simple jumper cable from the battery can still bypass it. Cheers, Vaughan the muppet
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Cletus' '68 Plymouth post car
in Project Discussion
Posted
Sweet job Clint.
I couldn't keep my big block cool in summer, had electric fans, then OG 4 blade that was better. The fix in the end was a FlowKooler waterpump from Summit and a FlowKooler Robertshaw thermostat. Milodon do a cheaper copy of the heavy duty type thermostat ( like a sleeve valve, not poppet) but it lasted 2 drives before jamming shut. The FlowKooler stuff is legit and far cheaper than reworking radiators etc if the airflow side is OK. Good luck.