dmulally

So naturally the new filter wasn't even close to fitting so I used the old one. It is a massive improvement on the shitty pod filter however.

I use epotec over everything. In saying that I tack with grease and wax remover as a rule anyway.

Have a look on your local marketplace for some crappy old snotter to get a panel off with a grinder. Should be reasonably cheap and small enough to use and chuck out. Otherwise if you get a sheet of 1mm you'll be tripping over it for years.

So she has new school shoes on and the wof is booked in for Friday next week. Everything works so I won't even be looking at it in the meantime. Still waiting for my air filter to turn up so when that does I'll fit it right away. One drama was that when in full droop, the gearbox leaked at the input shaft. Made a mess but something for me to note.

Right then. WOF time is upon us and time to sort the things that could be a potential cock blocker and generally tidy things up. I did order a mechanical water temp gauge but it's the wrong thread for the block so I might have to get one of those ones which goes in the rad hoses. I've ordered four new tyres as one had a slow leak and they are all pretty old and cracked. Doubt they'll pass the WOF as is. So whilst I'm waiting for that I'll sort some minor things. I had to put some sealant on the fuel gauge sender so whilst I was there I coated the spare wheel well in POR15. It was a little rusty looking so this is the perfect crime. Also took this opportunity to get rid of the crappy pit bike pod filter and tarted up an original one. It's presently baking in my state of the art heated paint booth today. This is the heat resistant POR15 which takes daaaaaays to dry.

Does anybody know if changing from a fleetside normal ute deck to a flatdeck tipping bed need to be run through LVV?

Ahh I see what you mean. That is a pain. Perhaps near the diff? My trick for lowered cars is to set the front number plate at the same height as the sump or whatever. Then if you hear that scratch find another supermarket with less annoying speed bumps!

I'm sure you have looked at this option but with some ducting perhaps the below would be an option. https://www.southernrods.com/a-c-and-heat-components/remote-condenser-fan-combo.html I'd possibly put horizontal under the radiator mounted with a small scoop. Or perhaps off to a side.

Ahhh I see what you're saying. I thought you were talking about overcooling. My bad! What you're saying makes sense.

Wouldn't it be the same as starting the car and immediately driving down the freeway with the airflow? The thermostat should block it from flowing until up to temp anyway. I have my thermo fan on a switch for my chev but unless on a winter morning and I remember I leave it on. I'm not sure banana benders get winters however. Putting on the shroud I found made the biggest difference for my overheating dramas and in the end was the engine itself.

Right then. Started first kick. Now to find a gearbox for it.

Right this makes sense. Now to the other questions...

Hi All, Im looking at converting a small block chev to diesel. The only diesels I have played with have been on tractors and that usually consisted of me swearing a lot. I have acquired a 4BE1 from an Isuzu elf (I assume) but was pulled from a range rover. Before I do anything I want to floor test this engine. Can I get a couple of pointers on how to do this safely please? I was going to wedge on wood and hook it up to an engine crane so it doesn't flop over. Questions: 1. Is the fuel line going to the front of the injector pump the inlet and the one at the rear the return? Can I just throw them both into a jerry can? 2. Do I need an electronic lift pump in line or if I put the jerry up higher will that be enough? 3. I have no idea how to turn it off. There is a single wire coming off the injector pump. Is that the on/off switch and should I just put 12v to that for "spark"? 4. Why do I do this to myself? I could retire if it weren't for dumb shit projects. Thanks in advance! I'll film the first attempt to blow it up if anybody wants.

I just did a chev swap on my C20. A 283 for a 350. If you want any detailed measurements in mm just sing out.

I need a new battery for my 4agze. That price looks pretty good. Any dramas with voltage drop if left for a while?

I spent a year looking for one of those engines and one walked into your lap! Very jealous!

Ta. I ended up getting in contact with the certifier and he said pretty much what you did. Being a lightweight 4 cylinder it isn't a problem.

Have you got more stuff to cert anyway? I'd tick it off then. If not borrow some of @yoeddynz hello kitty plush toys and cable tie them to the gussets.

I took my Chev C20 through LVV a year or so ago and things are a little different to when I took my commer through a few years ago. Instead of a plate they have a scanning tag and when they put that into the LVV system it brings up a whole stack of pictures of the build. So the Commer I'm able to do minor mods to (which is what I'd consider gussets to be) but the Chev would be a little too hard. I was going to swap my 700r4 for a 4l80e gearbox but it will be noticable should anybody log in and check closely. As like all these things, it depends on the mood of your WOF guy. If you've got more things to Cert I'd just do what you need to do beforehand so it is included in the pics.

Ta. I can only find specs for shock mounts which is the 5mm. I am rebuilding my suspension arms as an aside. They need to be by tig as they were previously mig welded. There are a couple of corners I cant get to with the tig beneath it so I hope the certifier isnt too precious about a few mig welds on them.

I feel like a real idiot for posting this but I simply cannot find it in the Hobby Car Manual. I am trying to find out the thickness for diff brackets (not the chassis end) for a 5 link rear end (Lotus 7 style). I have 3mm as that's the size of what the Skyline the diff is off originally had. But I can't recall where but I do remember hearing or seeing something about them needing to be 5mm thick. I have scoured chapter 6 of the manual and it is deliberately hiding from me. Although I can find the part about the shock mounts needing to be 5mm

I know I'm parked but how the turn tables!

Turns out it was that after all and I can successfully report back that it all works. For anybody desperately searching the internet that happens to stumble upon this post, the speedo I used was this: https://www.shopsaas.com/saas-speedometer-0-220-kph-3-1-2-in-dash-black-muscle-sg31632 I stuck it in the middle of the dash and it is rather bright.

Nope it doesnt say that. As for pedals I have a manual and an auto pedal assembly and both are bolt in and stock. I'm still going to run it past my WOF guy but without being rude he is as old as I feel so I'm trying to think long term for when he decides to retire. I quite like the essex v6 but after driving an auto version I would worry about falling asleep at the wheel it is so boring.