Lord Gruntfuttock

Ah maybe cos I'm on tank water it goes ok, had it tested for brewing and it's near as dammit distilled water quality...

Oh interesting. I've done a few carbs in simple green and only ever had one go a little like that. I dilute and rinse off immediately though. Will investigate the SG purple. Didn't even know that was a thing...

I've just used disposable plastic shot glasses to scoop out small amounts of paint/hardener in the past. Toss 'em when done. When house painting I've just bought a soup ladle from the $2 shop. Mainly cos I can't pour paint without making a mess, means the lid grooves stay clean etc...

Saw this today at a car show. No idea what's in it tho...

Yeah that's frustrating as hell. Mate had wooden dash pulled out of his Mk1 Jag in his garage, (effectively writing it off). They left pliers etc in car but no prints taken, even with a good idea who it was. Bring back horse thief punishment I say...

How bout this one...? https://www.facebook.com/share/hPXjrLTapMHExDWA/?mibextid=kL3p88

Yeah couple of Windsor plugs can be a bit awkward, can't remember which one, but one of mine is only accessible with the right combination of socket extension/universal joint attachments. Typically they're the plugs that never get changed or get cross-threaded by booger-fingered owners...

^ My Mini build brings all the Barrys to the yard, and they're like, worse sharns than yours. Damn right, they're worse than yours. I can teach you, but I have to charge...

They're a strong tranny. My only failure was when the torque converter fins fell off and I lost drive (burnouts to blame prob). Still running same trans but I've put alloy sump and thick silicone gasket on after suffering leaks and have replaced the filter, lower pickup too with deeper sump). There were a few flakes in the sump but I've chosen to ignore them...

How's the fluid. Checked level on dipstick with engine warm and in park? Colour? Burnt smell? [Edit] sorry just read properly. If fluid looks good I've got nothing...

Think that's same as mine. 600 vac sec Holley. Number looks familiar. Lots of parts/kits available. Think they have fixed secondaries via metering plate? but you can get a jet conversion. Also offer variable vacuum secondary springs so you can tune when they come in. I put a quick change diaphragm adapter on so was easy to play with. Sort of jealous. Looks fun...

I looked at a 9 inch but thought fuck it. It's expensive and heavy and the old borgy handles a lot more powerful engines than mine. If XYs weren't so narrow it'd be easier, but I'll diff swap when I need to rather than just cos. Plus tahi wheel peels are ace...

Did other wood bin. Cut some discs out of the copper footing and found a brass one from something I'd made earlier to blank off the holes. Had visions of a beautifully free flowing solder job... But it was really hard, turns out a copper bin is a huge heat sink, so when doing the big one the other ones just slid off... Eventually got there, and after sanding and dent hammering clear coated it... And done, looks ok I guess.... But bloke at work was just saying he got $150 scrap each for 2 smaller copper cylinders. Not sure it was worth the hassle/breathing in all the dust, could have just bought some bins, but that's not the OS way...

Had this big ol copper hot water cylinder in the paddock for ages, was always gonna do something with it... So cut both ends off to make some wood bins, pulled out the element/temp probe tube and knocked out dents. Cylinder was so big there's a whole centre section I may make a drinks/ice bucket out of yet... Looked at putting claw foot legs on the bins, but just bought cheap wooden fruit bowls off Temu, along with brass handles and some edge strip. The bowls are around 300mm dia, and quality reflects the price (cheap AF), one arrrived broken and the wood is damn near balsa spec, but they'll do... The ends of the cylinders were quite convex so I hammered them down flat and cut a decent hole in the bowls and gave them a coat of cedar stain/varnish... Then sanding, sanding, sanding with 120 grit to get a rough polish. I'm leaving it rough with character scratches and dents, cos they're wood bins... Then wiped down with wax & grease remover, and sprayed with clear spray bomb, bolted base to copper with some big washers, added a black edge strip, riveted some handles on, and done... Only did one today as a concept but came out OK I think. Two would look better each side of the fire so I'll cut off the copper base ring, solder some brass frost plugs over the holes and do the other one the same...

Yeah I'd try paint remover. The shit paint should almost wipe off with one pass and you'll be able to scuff the factory paint for priming/painting. I usually end up with it going everywhere so wear old clothes and safety specs.

Just saw this at Wyndham rally IRL...

Oh wow. That is very nice work. Well done indeed...

Can get a roll of marble/tile effect adhesive vinyl from Ali/Temu for not much moneys. I'd stick that on...

Nice to see a top loader being used. My bro had a beast genuine XA GT that had a very tricky one (unsure if close ratio or not). He sold it before it got sorted. Was pretty hard to use round town, engine only came on song around 3000rpm which didn't help... Still remember him crunching it into top gear at 120mph...

So had to do the dining table similarly. Can see the patch where the resin had been spilled that set this off... She was a big job, Temu sanding discs are legit though... Just one coat of stain-varnish, but took a bit more care applying it to minimise patchiness, you can add a little more on light colour areas. Did this in spare lounge with heat pump on overnight to help things cure... And a couple of clear satin coats on top and a gentle rub down with fine steel wood, came out pretty good... Far better, also cleaned the glass and replaced the silicon buffers it sits on. Got a usable table now... Found the varnish really easy to apply, smoothed out well, no bubbles or drips, turps based with a decent new brush, and a little went a long way, only used a portion of the 1 litre cans I bought (stain varnish and clear satin varnish). Would trade again...

Got some furniture that's suffered from use and looks grotty, worst part was some resin the kids had spilled on the dining table. It was cheapish, Malaysian softwood stuff but it's not veneer so thought I'd see what it was like underneath the paint. Started with the coffee table as a test.. Discovered early on it was finger jointed scrap timber so very nearly just clear coated it like this for a distressed look, but I'd taken too much off the top. Debated painting it black, but decided to carry on sanding... Looked ok'ish in bare wood, debated stain, wood dye or stain-varnish but went for the latter as the wood is soft in places and I suspected any stains would soak in unevenly... Chose Rimu colour to match the bookshelves, and it looked pretty good with one coat, but a bit patchy so thought another light coat may even things out... But I think it really looked better before, came out a bit reddish and still patchy... Added a satin clear varnish over this and it came out ok after a rub down with steel wool... Not perfect but far better, not overly fussy as I have a mix of oak, rimu, mahogony and dark woods in the room..

Can see swarf cutout on front...

Nice work. I just made a perimeter for my old Myford out of alloy angle, but left a small section out on the front right for sweeping swarf out into a dustpan. it's useful..

That is super cool... ^ On the other end of the scale, I'm a leather Barry now. The ~ 15 yr old leather lounge suite was a bit fucked, stitching coming apart, heat, dirt, neglect, colour wearing off, holes. Didn't really take before pics but apart from damaged sections it pretty much looked like this... It's a good set though, reclining chairs you can sleep in and couch has pop up footrests so I wanted to save it. Started by buying a curved leather needle and upholstery thread, watching youtube on how to re-stitch things, and it came out ok... Then gave whole suite a good clean (bought a Pelle leather care kit). Sprayed it with liquid cleaner, brushed in small circles (I used a new soft shoe brush) and wiped with clean rags, so much grime came off. Then before applying the reconditioner cream I looked at addressing the colour and holes. Bought some bits from Temu, leather dye, filler and glue... Glued a small patch underneath the hole and filled with a flexible filler that takes colour apparently, seemed to go ok... and before and after... Then applied colour dye, just rubbed in with clean rags where needed, the dark brown was a good match, and let it dry overnight. This was first coat, I reapplied where necessary... Applied it in sections... Then rubbed in reconditioning cream liberally, it's dark & shiny here cos just applied but will soak in... Bloody pleased overall, pretty satisfying work, looks like a new one, and has passed furry thing approval...

Should have posted a pic of your fire truck...