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Lord Gruntfuttock

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Everything posted by Lord Gruntfuttock

  1. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Mine is a 71, so prob bit different by the sounds of it, but engine # at back of block behind manifold, circled in red here... and timing plate front lower left on mine, no idea where it will be if water pump outlet on left sorry... They are a sweet wee motor once sorted, heaps of info online, I generally use 289 as a search term as the 302 went thru heaps of variations. Good luck...
  2. Lord Gruntfuttock
    And once again, I've started a small job that has grown. Pulled the passenger side out, bit more difficult as it's against the wall in the shed and I've got to wriggle into position (usually forgetting the important tool). More shock bolts sheared off, plus much hammering to get ball joints/tie rods out, more piles of muck to scrape off and tricky rivets to drill out, but got to a stage where I've got two piles of parts roughly cleaned... and a whole lot of bits to toss... Have ordered new brake pads & wheel bearings as well, plus brake shield gaskets and new grease caps (a surprising $5 delivery from a Mercury speciallist in th' States). I probably should remove the calipers and clean them up/replace seals etc while I'm at it but I may replace all brake lines later on so will do it then. Thought I'd try my blast cabinet with the new compressor (last one was painfully asthmatic/slow) so wrapped all engine parts in gladwrap and sealed in box before making things dusty... And it worked ok, still slowish but much better air delivery. I can't see myself hunched over for hours doing the control arms etc tho, so will prob get these professionally blasted... So aiming to press old bushings out and get parts blasted this week, ready for painting over the weekend. Then it's the fun stage, assembly. Will finish with pic of my apprentice - he's bloody useless. Gets covered in oil, chews stuff, widdles in the shop, scatters tools and generally gets in the way. Still good company tho...
  3. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Much swearing later got driver's side completely out. Learnt for next side to get brake caliper bolts out while there are still bits holding it in place. Had to drill/chisel rivets off to get lower ball joint out, and hoping there's a press at work I can borrow to remove/fit control arm bush... And bits semi-cleaned up. More cleaning and lick of paint on the cards till parts arrive... Whole lotta nuthin under the front end now...
  4. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Almost feels like that, It's still a bit scruffy but as i want to use it I'll be happy if it just doesn't rattle, smoke and squeak...
  5. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Thought I'd have a crack at chucking the new springs in. Never done any suspension work before so playing it by ear. Pulled bump stop plate out inside guard and removed the shock. Things were really covered in crap, looked like decades of grease and dust had accumulated, and everything was pretty much seized when I had dug it out to get a spanner on it - one lower bolt sheared off the shock, then when I undid top bolts the thing didn't move upwards like I expected, guess shocks were well overdue for replacement... Spring pulled out no bother (scored set of compressors for $30) and rubber insulator on top looks ok... And I pulled the upper control arm out, this is after a clean, it was covered in around 10mm of dust coloured muck... And the spindle had issues with the o-rings, one end had bulged out, while the other had a section missing. This would explain why previous attempts at lubing had just pumped grease under the guard... And old vs new. new ones are Lovells lows, matching them with KYB shocks... I was hoping to just chuck the spring in and move onto replacing the rubber suspension bushes, but cleaning the pivot revealed some wear (potentially the source of my slight but annoying Falcon squeak) so looked at replacements... Upper ball joints were equally scruffy, so ordered new ones of those too. Under the crud in this pic is the lower ball joint, I suspect these are riveted in rather than bolted so will have to drill them out after I've cleaned up. The top joint resisted all my attempts at getting it out till I shot into supercheap and grabbed a $20 separator tool... and naturally the tie rod rubbers were also shagged... I looked at replacing the rubber on these but seems tie rod comes as a complete unit, so - have ordered: * new upper control arm pivot bushes * upper and lower ball joints * and inner and outer tie rod ends. More costs I hadn't intended, but might as well do it now...
  6. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Ha yeah think there's some skill in setting them up. Mine is fine apart from small leak so not fucking with it. I did consider installing an XF lsd centre but quite like the old school single stripe...
  7. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Ha last thing I need is another project, and seeing I'm at a whisky festival 18th (bus trip) I'm picking I'll be good for fuck-all the next day. Also thinking bout Coal Miners bike rally the following weekend at Kaitangita. Shame though, cruise to Ranfurly would be great, would also enjoy seeing apprentice Barrys dribbling over yard full of crappy old cars treasures. Well done getting Tony on board...
  8. Lord Gruntfuttock
    I hope to see some build threads come out of this...
  9. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Random bits I bought a bigger sway bar on tardme to see if it improves handling any, seems ok but was yellow, so stripped and painted in my favourite durepox black, along with a few other bits... Putting in new universals too, got them out by the 'bash with big socket over cap while resting on bits of wood' method - looks like not before time... While I was doing this I thought I'd paint the distributor, as OCD me don't like the red under the bonnet. Shouldn't be any electrical tracking dramas with epoxy, and hopefully it sticks well to the plastic. Just cleaned it with solvent, masked the connector turrets and shot it with a gloopy mess of paint (was down to last bit of tin and it had thickened to an almost jelly consistency)... Surprised it managed to spray at all, but came out tolerable - I'll just tell people it was an attempt at a wrinkle finish...
  10. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Diff While motor's in shop I looked at diff. It's nothing special, the good old Borg Warner 75 single peeler (as they bloody well should be) - these are relatively light and strong enough if not abused, but has been leaking for a while. I've never played with diffs so fumbled my way through disassembly, pretty sure it's only leaking at pinion seal and oil's been carried over rest of diff, but I'll change the housing gasket as well. Jacked her up and pulled cover, should have done this after getting pinion nut off as it dripped stinky oil over me while I struggled under the thing, was wearing work polo too so gonna stink of diff oil for a while. At least I know there was some still innit... Man these things are tight (torque setting is a massive 265 ft/lbs) and working on axle stands there's no room to swing a breaker bar... After bashing, levering, swearing and heaving (and using a rattle impact gun that just made me deaf) eventually got it free by using giant wrench on the yoke (wedged against block of wood) and jacking the flex handle up. Went with a crack that had me shitting myself, but was able to get nut off ok... Of course I was in such a hurry to get things apart I hadn't read any procedure, so neglected to count threads exposed or see what torque was required to spin the yoke. So I spun nut back on and managed to rangi-spec a system that would let me use my inch-lb torque wrench on the 1/2" drive pinion socket, took around 64 in-lbs to rotate freely... Was pleased my baby puller got flange/yoke out ok. I did mark this so it can go back in right position at least... And success. levered out old seal, and the rubber was brittle as hell after 46 yrs, not much sealing happening there... A little concerned at the wear marks on the yoke shaft, but I'll clean that up a bit and see how it goes. I've ordered a new seal and cover gasket, and hopefully just doing the seal I'll be able to torque it back up to where it was before, so pre-load is thereabouts. Noticed the brake lines are looking a bit dubious too so will prob change these out as well...
  11. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Car's in bits. Thought of convincing mate to take his P76 for a cruise, then realised going to Moonshine festival on 18th. next time...
  12. Lord Gruntfuttock
    So yeah, no Teretonga for me. just back from A&E - 7 yr old daughter fell off trampoline yesterday aaaand broken leg. She was fairly gutsy about it to be honest. more pics pls
  13. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Could hear lots of cool noise from home, and saw that jeep in town this morning. Might see if can get out tomorrow for a looksee... Bet there's a few sunburnt faces.
  14. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Must remember not to hoon to work tomorrow...
  15. Lord Gruntfuttock
    shit...
  16. Lord Gruntfuttock
    I'm on a short leash since I spent her birthday in the shed pulling an engine out... We'll see.
  17. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Looked at the ring gap at lunchtime - took the top ring off, levelled it down bore with a vernier, and measured, just looks too big... Bloody hell, kept sliding more feelers in... So it's over 50 thou. I think at 4.030" bore diameter the top ring should be around 0.016 - 0.018" - so that may be where the problem lies. Prob been like that for years, I just never picked up as never had a catch can telling me how misty the crankcase was. I'll try to get block into machine shop this week and get it inspected, hopefully a hone, ring and bearing job will sort her out...
  18. Lord Gruntfuttock
    So strip went well, much easier pulling them apart when you've used anti-seize on the threads, and the gaskets aren't decades old... Disappointingly i didn't find obvious ring issues, so no wiser why it's so smoky. Pulled the piston on the lowest compression cylinder and the bearings, bore and rings look ok (as far as I know, not really sure what I'm looking for) so hopefully a hone and ring job may sort it. I'll check how the ring gap looks and try to take it into a machine shop this week to get it checked out...
  19. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Cool build. Got a proper old one in the shed, picked it up at a garage sale. Never used it cos it's a bit scody. Must give it a clean and have at it... [edit] Had to have a look at it. it's in far better nick than I remembered, and as a bonus was packed in an old twin flagon case. Wish I'd known that when I got in a bidding war for one on tardme for the flagon club. Hoarding's only good when you remember what you've got squirreled away...
  20. Lord Gruntfuttock
    So, around a year after I started, I've pulled the guts out of her again. It was going ok, been using it a bit, but the puffs of smoke and red puddles were embarrassing, so I'm gonna hopefully fix those properly. Since I've got most of the gear and done all the painting etc it shouldn't be too much of a mission. (I was sooo close to putting a 5-speed box in though, just can't justify the hassle/expense). Plan is to strip engine and get block checked, and put her back together all tight and perky... Also gonna fit lowered springs and have ordered a set of rubber suspension bushes and larger sway bar to tidy up the wallowy front end. Bit of a bugger redoing a lot of this work, but I took the gamble last time, and at least I've got a garage buddy to keep me company... meet Jagger, the 9 wk old Border Collie, great wee bloke - already knows to sit there out of the way while I cock things up, bleed and swear...
  21. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Running 302w and c4 for $2700 on tardme at the mo.
  22. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Could use something like this...? If you had a red one you'd have to dress as Basil and carry a bit of tree on a run wouldn't ya...
  23. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Ah the rare twin cam model...
  24. Lord Gruntfuttock
    If were in 'straya I'd suggest Barry-mundi instead of Goldfish. But yeah, build pics...
  25. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Cleaned plug and it's away again, was wet when I pulled it but not sure if fuel or oil. I'll do a compression test and look at valve seal/s when I get a chance (think the K4 only had a seal on exhaust)? Then I'll adjust clutch and timing chain and give her another blat to see how plug looks when it stops raining...
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