johnny.race

@gingerninjaHey bro ... I see this is your first post. Usually (for any prick with a sense of decorum) new posters introduce themselves/tell fibs at our front door in 'Introduce yourself' - prior to heading to the shed and having at it. Just saying.

Simon Burneys 40' Ford Coupe. The car was an animal and its owner was loose as. Before this reincarnation (and its still like this 30 odd years later) this coupe was a red oxide primer patchy looking ruffy. It ran a 402 BB Cheb and 4 Speed. Simon always rode it hard. I'll go out on a limb here but I'm remembering it was one of the first cars to front up with a narrowed bum all tucked under with a link suspension. I remember the hand formed alum bucket seats - unheard of for the time. Most cars of the era (and especially ones that were still tooling around on the street like this one did or did previously when in primer) wore their big tires sticking out and featured jacked up arses. Damn, I loved this jacked up look. The quintessential street racer. But yeah .... Simon Burneys manual BB pre-war coupe. Sowed the seed for wanting something similar of my own one day.

Farrrkk!!!!!!!! Ray Channing (RIP bro) in Rampage!!! 289 and a 4 Speed. Excessive RPM and brutal shifting technique. Loved it. Thankyou Nels.

The only factory 9" disc brakes I've seen are those ones that came on the Lincoln Versailles. Were the ones that you fitted that sort or something else, out of interest.

I believe that's one of those urban myths handed down, thrown about, passed on by hearsay, not from actual ownership. My 5c worth anyway. I've had/got the odd pair and some have suffered from sitting for long times out in the elements like anything would. Most of them still had function though. These are getting near 40yrs old now if you are talking BW. Go through them and keep them on a toy that lives in a shed and you'll have no problems. Fucked seals, old moisture laden DOT3 sitting in them and lack of use are what I reckon have given them a bad rep.

From my experience fucking around with fitting different axles/disc brake combinations with Falcon based BW's, the seal height/thickness matters. The seals used in the Ford BW's come in 3 different thicknesses from what I have seen. Two of them are quite close to look at where as the 3rd one is noticeably thicker. Its a trap for players though, but you can tell if what you have fitted is the correct one by pushing and pulling on the axle flange in order to see if there is any backlash evident after its fitted. On a BW there should not be any due to it running tapered bearings. As well as providing a seal for the housing - they provide bearing pre-load. Same deal as a Set20 on a big bearing 9". Just saying.

So the brake offset/backspace is the same on both diffs? Plus the backing plate bolt pattern on the Salisbury and BW are the same also?

Old thread I know, but here is an observation I've been able to make. I said I had a quartet of those black ones pictured above, thought they looked pretty beefy and had no complaints with them. They look near enuff the same as what @JoKer and @nzed were using but I can now say with confidence - they ain't. I just purchased a pair of those $91 ones and as I was unpacking them they felt light and not at all like the 4 that were sitting in the shed. These ones look the same at a glance but when put to a tape measure and verniers - are lighter all round. They are pressed from 2.5mm plate as opposed to the earlier ones 3mm and the supporting rod is skinnier on these new ones. I can now see how @nzed fucked his one. Before i put these into service i am going to blaze some reinforcing onto them so that mishap does not happen to me. Just saying.

It depends on a few things and funnily enuff, it can boil down to what drill size you have available. The NICE range of wheel studs available through most places like RipCo and Super Cheap etc will cover anything you want to do. There is an online catalog for NICE. This said, I've reused the OEM wheel studs heaps of times when they have measured up as being suitable. When using aftermarket ones, make sure you check the specs for length and diameter of the splined portion. Make sure you know your existing axle flange thickness. Make sure its all compatible. Thickness of the hat and type of lug nut plays a part also - in terms of length. Then there is the interference fit you'll need to figure out. Take your time with this stuff because its easy to fuck it all up and waste the axle. and your time in it.

Yeah, that's a thought. Will think on it/do something when I am working on it/finishing it all off next. I pulled the electric motor off in order carry out some isolation works but got waylaid. I want to isolate it (electrically) from the rest of the structure and welder. I am not sure why except to say its an AC unit and I don't want the welder to earth thru it or fuck it in any way ... and turn everything electrically hot (if that's possible) I am not a electrician so don't know the intricacies of it all but just going to isolate the fucking thing so its not an issue. I am going to earth directly to the rim I think. It only does one revolution so don't need a fancy swivel or anything. Will see. Cheers.

I use the retaining ring to press the bearing on. Doing it like this means all the force of the ring is concentrated on the part of the bearing you want to be pushing on. The bearing and the ring seat together. There is not hammer or torch in sight when fitting bearings and the operation seems smooth as fuck. A decent press and appropriate jig helps though. Read the fine print in the blurb TIMKEN enclose with each of their bearing sets .... don't use heat it says the last time I read it. Re using heat - I'm guessing the same school that taught you to use heat on the shrink ring also taught you to use heat on the end of an axle before you went at it with a piece of HSS. Its all oldschool thinking I reckon. You can tell when a ring has been put on using heat ... on a Hilux axle the rubber seal is all blistered/fucked looking and the BW's and 9 Inches sometimes have a blue hue going on. All that said though, I have never heard of any axle mishap occurring due specifically to what method was used to fit the retainer ring, but fuck hammering bearings.

Yep. He's holding the big end in a divider by the brake register. He's doing light cuts because he's got no support behind the axle and the color of his chips say so. He'll be ever so careful when he's doing his test fits with a side gear with the tailstock removed ... all that axle sticking out unsupported. He'll chock it up using that big hunk of iron sitting in the middle there. Its almost if i am there, aye?! Lol! I love seeing the different setups and are reasonably versed in the challenges of the task in hand. He won't be turning down the bearing journal OD if that core is from an AU. They are the same size as Valiant used already/in stock form. He maybe attempting to alter the brake offset distance? Thinning the inside hub shoulder down? Ummm ... the brake register hub diameter would be bigger on the Ford too? Good stuff. Keep us posted.

Nice bro. How many passes? Must be several because those chips are not electric blue like my ones come off like. Whereabouts is the old man grabbing the axle with the indexer? At the end or along the shaft somewhere? Cool to see this kinda stuff.

Recycling reo ... recycling anything that will get it done, comrade.

Won this on TM from the local Turners branch. Paid not much at all. Ex RNZAF. Had to fit a new plug plus $63 of 0.8mm wire and some new consumables. Tested it hooked up to my big red BOC'r's Argon Shield Bottle and it runs sweet. The torch connection had started to droop a little so supported it with some tie wire. Stripped the covers off it and blew it all out using the compressor gun. This will have duty cycle time to burn. All good. More bracket work. Torch has heaps of adjustment. Right where I want it. Note the linear slide. Gawd that was a good score.

The bigger drums had the fins from what I can see and yeah - I am saying 2.5 for 2.5. I don't know for sure but it makes sense to me ... or why would Ford make them any bigger than they absolutely had to. Go well. You must be running two different stud patterns aye matey.

On those things ... by pulling an axle. It'll be either a ball or a tapered roller. If its a tapered roller it'll be a Timken SET20 and you'll be the owner of a late model big bearing Torino style housing. If its a ball bearing style and it measures 3.150"/80mm then it will also be big bearing but the early style. Ifs its a ball bearing but smaller than 80mm in diameter, then it'll be a small bearing type. Pull an axle man. See what spline you have got at the same time. You can't go off the old 1/2" or 3/8" rule anymore ... I've seen tapers come out of holes where there should have been a ball. They obviously knew what they were doing because they had removed the seal too. Just saying.

Get your shoes relined (if they are the correct ones that suit your drums etc) I'm not really familiar with OEM 9" drum setups but I'd be guessing the guide thingy you are talking about would be the same in most of the other 9" drum offerings. They'd be side dependent though. Each side would mirror the other so you need to get the side you are after. The 9" came with 3 different brake offsets as well as several different shoe widths. You'l be able to see straight away if the drums don't match the backing plates. The drums have that receiver groove thing going on with the backing plate. Furthermore, if the shoes look obscenely skinny compared to the drum then someones probably swapped them in at sometime during the past. You beable to see the wear pattern in the drum. They are designed to be all used' - if that makes sense. There are 3 different bearing sizes and 2 different types. What have you got? Each of the 2 types have their own way of controlling oil leakage. If Hypoid (it is oil and not fluid, yeah?) then regardless of the bearing type - it all needs changing out. In one case the bearing contains the primary oil seal so must be changed as a unit and in the other - its seal has failed so allowing oil ingression that will lead to shitting your bearing (its supposed to be sealed) The main oil seal for this type will be located inside the axle housing. The seal in/on the bearing is the last resort and is there to protect the bearing. Chur.

Mate, you won't be making a collapsible spacer at home me thinks. If you are going to be making anything - it will be a solid spacer. You read about guys saying they made one blah blah and seemingly like its an easy 5 min job on a lathe. Its not. It involves some very tight tolerances being kept, some decent measuring equipment and the hardest thing .... a source for obtaining shims. On top top of this is the design of the diff ... if its a Banjo or a Salisbury has massive implications from an ergonomic POV if you are R&D'ing a homebuilt solid spacer setup. Can you buy a collapsible or solid spacer kit for an early Holden diff? . Whats an EH diff - Banjo or ? The Aussies must have something.

I dunno, I have never seen/worked on an EH diff but will offer up this little observation. I pulled apart a BW from out of a XY Falcon a few months ago and discovered it had a solid spacer fitted. I'm pretty sure it was factory and that I was the first one to pull it apart. So yeah ... there was a fair bit of solid spacery' going on in them days. Pay to check before paying a pro to do what can be done at home with a rattle gun. Just saying.

3mm

Anyone tried one of these? Your thoughts for a penny? https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/listing-2366469798.htm?rsqid=7d5a324775f1446382b36a0b5f29f447-002

So I take it that 28 spline axles were got (probably from the same diff the carrier came from) and then cut down and resplined in order to replace the 25 spline items? I'm trying to follow what has been done. Question ... did you end up using the brakes that came with the 28 spline axles?

You can tell if it came out of an AU or not. The bearing retainer plate changed on the AU when compared to the earlier models. The AU housing flange is wayyy thicker than the earlier models and its bolt pattern is more of a square' as opposed to the earlier models rectangular shape. Different brakes also.

Bracket fabbed to hold electric motor that will be used to rotate the rim at a speed that allows continuous welding. Painted and tested for fit. Good enuff.