johnny.race

6 hours ago, mjrstar said:

.... man you can pour some cash into shortening an oem diff if you are outsourcing all the work. 

Yeah bro. Its that one place where all that money, effort and time you've spent building power, guts and performance - umm meet. Whether you're paying for it or not, Its not a place to skimp. You'll be found out.

10 minutes ago, zep said:

I want to go down to around 1350-1360 width.

What wheel stud PCD would you be looking at? What sorta brake setup are you hoping to run? I know where there are a couple of 1350's and a 1365 I think. The pinion is centered in one of the 1350's and I'm not sure where it is in the other two. In anycase - they'd/it'd be offset to a lesser extent than the OEM Hilux all are.

3 hours ago, cletus said:

 .... It's obviously better if the wheel locates on a spigot in the middle , but if you aren't running spacers, and your wheels have tapered nuts, it's not actually a cert requirement,  the axle face could be flat ... 

Clint, you're talking about the wheels here aye? Not the rotor floating between the rim and axle flange face - held in place and located by the wheel studs. Yes?

4 hours ago, Guypie said:

Cool, it seems like its a pretty good system. I am just missing a few common sizes and I have a decent collection of threaded shank cutters so I will probably go through my cutters and figure out what sizes I'm missing. Well once my wallet recovers from the beating the milling machine has already given it! Its not a cheap hobby but at least most of the stuff I need to get for it a re buy once/cry once type deals

Those threaded cutters sound like the ones a Clarkson Auto Lock (chuck system) uses. My take on things - depending on what you are doing, I wouldn't waste my time using HSS anything ... I'd be setting myself up to use tungsten carbide indexable cutters. This is my personal experience, but then again I have a pretty narrow scope of what I use mills and lathe to do, plus I've never had any formal training. 

27 minutes ago, RXFORD said:

Do you get those re-hardened?

Why?

7 hours ago, chris r said:

No not yet 

Yep yep, I have acted as your dude on the ground in the Manawatu before - no worries doing it again. Sing out if you have the need. 

@chris rHave you sorted this Christopher?

@bonkasHey man, have you sorted this?

Its worth this, its worth that ... its worth what someone is willing to pay you for it at the end of the day I'd think. There's heaps of talk about certain cars being worth ching ching ching and a look on TM verifies that this is indeed the case.  But has anyone got first hand knowledge/or can verify the sellers actually got what they were asking (or near to it) for it?  For example - Valiant. Forget the RT's but the average 265 Charger ... north of 60k?? This is what is being asked but you never see them with the 'reserve met' sign by them. They just disappear. Are these really going for this sort of money or are the great majority of them a fair bit less. 

There are some real truisms mentioned above. This is a great thread.

That form that @piazzanoob linked is what NZTA told me I needed to submit so sent one out to me to print off. My situation is I have got a vehicle that has all its tags, they all line up, but came with another vehicles licence plates. Forgetting the incorrect number plates and referring to the vehicles OEM frame number and body tag identifiers - there is no history of it in NZTA's database. Vehicle is a mid 80's item. The part that stuck in my mind from my phone discussion with them is that there must be a part (I dunno - I never read right through it) that one of NZTA's 'agents' had to fill in. This to verify that what was being submitted to NZTA did indeed describe the vehicle sitting in front of the agent. This to start the VIN process. 

1 hour ago, DriveBy said:

Imagine if this thread went the way of the rotary piners thread. $100k+ Hiluxes in 5 years time.

Oh please god ....

Lol!

Spoke to a (very helpful) dude at NZTA. Told him what I was about and he did a search of their database. Result - nothing. Nada showing up connected to the frame number I gave to him. A little bit more info on this truck ... I purchased it as parts from off a farm. It was a mudball on wheels. It'd been there for a fair while I'm guessing. They (the farmer and co) only registered it (farm rego) so that they could use it on the road for cow movement management. I might actually make contact with them again and see what I can dig up. Meanwhile, I've put the truck's rego on hold until I can see a way forward. Back to my conversation with NZTA. He said for instances like it sounded I've found myself in, rectification - be it resurrection of the old ID or issue of a new one all started with one of 'their' agents (understandable) verifying that the vehicle is as its been described - previous ID able to be established/confirmed or not even. I thought I knew how/where the older Lux's carried their ID marks but stand to be schooled. I might carry this line of talk on in the Hilux thread.

A line of thought that entered my head (and I try not to think this way) was that if it all started to feel like the squeeze was not going to be worth the juice - go about things in reverse (sorta) and get the truck certified for a chassis/engine swap due to rust and brokenness. This would line up all the ducks again - or is my thinking screwed.    

16 hours ago, tortron said:

check chassis number/body tag on carjam etc ... or go direct to the source

https://www.police.govt.nz/can-you-help-us/stolen-vehicles

Put the chassis number into carjam. Got this. "It appears the vehicle is not in New Zealand yet. CarJam can provide Japan History.

Put the chassis number into the Police link. got this. "Vehicle is currently listed as NOT STOLEN"

When down to the local VTNZ and got nothing from them when they tried the frame number in their system. The lady gave me the Waka Kotahi Road User Charges ph number to see check in with them to see if something comes up as being owed by the vehicle with this chassis number. 

Currently listening to this shit music being played on loop waiting for someone to talk to. 

Dudes, I have a Hilux that I brought for parts. It came rego'd but the number plates don't match this vehicle. This truck is clearly an LN65 where as the plates are for a YN67. LN means diesel in old Hilux speak where as YN means petrol. This truck is a diesel and so would have been paying RUC in a former life. The truck has body tag but no VIN tag. I'm guessing the truck is around being a 1984/5 model. The chassis number on the tag matches the number stamped into the frame. Same same deal re the engine number - everything matches just not the rego, lol!

Even though this is a rusty worn out pig, I'm entertaining the idea of maybe making this truck good again given I probably have enough good parts on hand to allow it to happen. I want it legit though. So I guess the first step would be to check if the chassis number equates to anything in the big arse database that Transport NZ maintain? And see the cops also? Advice please.

I want to be sure there is a clear path for the truck to become legit before I start investing in it. Plus I'm scared of RUC shit coming around to bite me in the bum. I don't mind spending money and don't mind some new white plates, but legit-ness and not being liable for previously owed RUC is what is important to me.

This said, if there was a small sum owing and that was all that stood between it becoming legal etc - then I'd probably stump up. But anyway ...

On 07/08/2021 at 12:02, Geoff Rohde said:

Thanks for that. Im rather fortunate that Phil Bradshaw has assisted me with some of my concerns. The "other " guy just wants me to send more money for ongoing support and at $175 an hour for a handful of email responses, I think I will pass and pursue other avenues. I've already directed over 2g in his direction for components that Ive since been told should not have been more than $500.

Who's the other guy?

Does anyone know about, had anything to do with big arsed HMT Lathes that use electromagnetic clutches to engage/disengage difference speeds? My current lathe slips in most gears when you start feeding it the message. I've got one gear left (lol!! out of shit loads of them) in high where I can load up the cutting tip and it does not slip. (like a slipping clutch in a car) Its a A24UP ummm 3ph at around the 10kw power level. Fit around 1.5m between centers. Fuck its getting close to being scrapped and something smaller more nimble being bought in.

Is there a catch or something with running a late model engine (1uz/ls1 etc) in a scratch built hotrod? I seem to remember something but can't recall. Does it mean the build has to comply with some frontal impact thingy or something that you would not have to consider if you were running a donk from out of the 60's/70's. Ta.

Yep yip, axle retention works, got it. Makes sense. Maybe a HD bearing retainer set up with a spacer or something to preload the seal even more than stock. Cool. Ta man. Cool diffs them Borgies.

@Lord Gruntfuttock Hi, what sorta thing do they do to the axles to prepare them for rally use, out of interest. 

9 hours ago, manamari said:

Yeah tridens go good on em

That's a cool looking little shop truck you have there.

5 hours ago, igor said:

Also consider what you are hanging the chain hoist on, this being potentially the weakest link. I have seen a 302 Cleveland and C4 trans hanging from the bottom chord of a roof truss made entirely from 100x50 pine. The creaking sounds it made did not fill me with confidence.

I kicked a son out of the shed for doing this. Told him to get all of his shit out of there and to go find someone elses shed to fuck. This was years ago. He owns a big shed now and notice he doesn't use his trusses as a lifting beam. Go figure. 

I've seen 4 by 2 sized studs used to support another piece of 4 by 2 that had been tied to the truss before. The car was driven between the studs and the truss is supported by them and reinforced with that other 4 by 2. Worked ok. Not in my shed(s) though. I'm the sorta cunt that would not use a piece of my shed like a crane.

We use seat belts down at the yard. All the yards do - scrap and wreckers. The day someone loses a limb will be the day that practice stops in that particular yard. I wouldn't use the method in my shed. There is fuck all adjustment and no undoing. Expedient application only.

There is a massive difference when you look at a rated' chain and something sold from out of a hardware store. I've got a couple of chains I got from Steel and Tube. Good quality stuff fitted with a snatch/grab hook on one end. Can adjust for anything. They are used for everything.

I wouldn't trust those Carabena looking things in the pics above. You want over kill when you lift something. Failure or risk of is unacceptable. Drop something onto your pride and joy or even worse - your donk on to the concrete from a reasonable height and you'll understand why lifting is one place you don't take risks or skimp in.

Ask me.