johnny.race

On 05/02/2022 at 08:09, moparmuppet said:

@johnny.race Can I trouble you to posting a photo of the colour code sticker on the firewall of the 106 please. Assembled in Chch? My one is your twin, rubber mats, bench seat. Cheers.

Sorry for the delay in getting this to you matey, been away. It appears our babies are Bro's of the first order! Hehe, cool!

Edit. I just reread what you were after, the sticker. That sticker has nothing on it. Not even something on there you can try and decipher - its a 2k paint sticker and that's it. Whatever was on there has long faded out. Cheers. 

Solid axle stuff ...

No mighty L series unfortunately but yeah nah - this will have to do.

My red ruffy.

Minta!

1 hour ago, dmulally said:

I'm about to get 3 phase put into my presently off grid shed. Is it worth making the jump to a three phase welder? I have a 200amp Cebora MIG welder now that I very very rarely run more than half strength via a 10kva generator. But I do have a bulldozer on the to do list which will take some grunt to weld up some decent cracks. 

Bulldozers like 3ph stick welders. Used 3ph stick welders are cheap and powerful. The worlds ya oyster in terms of cheap (for what it is) used industrial spec gear when you stump up for 3ph in your shed.

You know the 2009 Hilux shape ... I'm asking about that shape truck. Does anyone know what size wheels they came with from the factory? My LN106 has 15's on it, ummm, -8 offset from memory, with 32's. I was was wondering if they'd fit onto/work with a 2009 model Lux. Ta.

On 23/12/2021 at 21:32, Taistorm said:

@OSM Garage he's the torque wrench guru.

so is @Muncie Would trade again!

On 23/12/2021 at 08:19, flyingbrick said:

Is it a trade secret?

It wasn't softened. Its already in hard state.

Does anyone know the names of the popular sites in Australia where classic cars (Valiants, Holdens etc) get sold? Ta.

This build ceased and the car sold. Lack of motivation/time and changing interests being the culprits. Yet another notch in the bedhead of broken dreams (I pinched these words from @sluggy) Life goes on. Cheers.

On 01/12/2021 at 08:02, sluggy said:

.... but motivation/time are against me. Yet another notch in the bedhead of broken dreams ...

These words sum things up succinctly. I'm going to pinch them. Ta.

You don't email Howat - you ring him. I've built diffs before for customers using his axles. I've never ordered any myself - I've moreso been the guy that supplies the cores and builds the housing. The only time I direct someone his way (and this has happened a few times) is if a length of axle is required that can't be got by juggling pinion offset and no OEM axle has meat in the place its needed for a respline.

From what I've seen his work is good, the product meaty, accurate and would be strong. He uses a appropriately sized 4340 shaft that is splined in soft state prior to being hardened. He uses a LN85 (or similar) OEM axle core and cuts the shaft from off the flange. He bores the flange and its shrunk onto the new shaft and secured by welding it inside the bored out brake hub register (from the outside)

I've checked his work between centers (I'm lying - I grabbed the brake hub register in a chuck) and held the pointy end in a live center. and the bearing journal ran near true according to a DTI. I was actually surprised. I've seen some shockers come in the door straight out of supposedly good running differentials. 

Best to ring him.  

The 2nd from the left is a Surf 6 stud axle that's been drilled for 4 x 114.3PCD. The forging chamfer/bevel/gusset whatever has been taken down from OEM 6 stud size to OEM 5 stud size. That axle next to it, 3rd from the left, is an LN85 item OEM 5 stud. The 5 stud OEM PCD is 114.3mm. See - same size. The 2 outer axles are untouched 6 stud items. The 1st one is one of those 6 stud Hiace ones. The last one is a Surf item. Its clear the OEM Lux 6 stud axle is built more butty than its lesser studded sibling.

I might have done the odd 100mm PCD over the years. Not nice though, you end up leaving less material than what the factory deemed was ok on its smallest axle. Just my 2c worth. You can lessen the chunking action undertaken by running a small headed wheel stud and running everything close. The factory Lux 5 stud studs feature quite a large diameter head, are sorta stumpy/shortish and require more material removal to work.

This area is a specialist area bro where special cunts operate, lol!

Those axles are from the 40's or 50's series of Luxers. I'm guessing LN56/57 given the 4 lugs in the register and the later style of bearing housing being used. They'd be around the 685mm mark in length OEM and were worth something before being blazed and having meat chunked out of the rear flange in order to get that small PCD to fit. Out of interest, are AE101 rear calipers the same as AE92's?  

On 30/11/2021 at 22:25, zep said:

Wow! Thanks @johnny.race So it's not quite as easy as I had been told.

My current diff is one of the 1410mm wide ones. I'm essentially looking for axles that are the splines plus the tapered area longer, so I can cut it all off and respline at my required length. 

What does the axle brake hub register look like. Does it look like those in that first pic I posted or has it got two dork things sticking up like in the 3rd pic I posted. Is the housing the skinny welded type or the later round type? Your axles will be around 685mm long and if 6 stud - will have done a shit load of work. Just saying.

Do you think there is enough material in the mounting face centre to machine a 6 stud down to 68.3mm from the stock 101.6mm?

Those pics above feature a brake hub register (what you call a centerbore) of 68mm dia. 

As I mentioned above, my rotors are currently mounted behind the flange face. I need to pull them off and see how this was achieved as I didn't do it personally. Could be some machine trickery behind there.

Is there any reason not to just grab an entire 6 stud hiace housing and axles then, if they are more butty? Will my existing hilux diff head work with this?

Let me know if you do find one of those 6 stud Hiace ones that matches the width of a KUN. I've got a few of them here and they are not KUN width. But that's just what I've seen - you're mileage may vary.

 

6 hours ago, mjrstar said:

.... man you can pour some cash into shortening an oem diff if you are outsourcing all the work. 

Yeah bro. Its that one place where all that money, effort and time you've spent building power, guts and performance - umm meet. Whether you're paying for it or not, Its not a place to skimp. You'll be found out.

10 minutes ago, zep said:

I want to go down to around 1350-1360 width.

What wheel stud PCD would you be looking at? What sorta brake setup are you hoping to run? I know where there are a couple of 1350's and a 1365 I think. The pinion is centered in one of the 1350's and I'm not sure where it is in the other two. In anycase - they'd/it'd be offset to a lesser extent than the OEM Hilux all are.

3 hours ago, cletus said:

 .... It's obviously better if the wheel locates on a spigot in the middle , but if you aren't running spacers, and your wheels have tapered nuts, it's not actually a cert requirement,  the axle face could be flat ... 

Clint, you're talking about the wheels here aye? Not the rotor floating between the rim and axle flange face - held in place and located by the wheel studs. Yes?

4 hours ago, Guypie said:

Cool, it seems like its a pretty good system. I am just missing a few common sizes and I have a decent collection of threaded shank cutters so I will probably go through my cutters and figure out what sizes I'm missing. Well once my wallet recovers from the beating the milling machine has already given it! Its not a cheap hobby but at least most of the stuff I need to get for it a re buy once/cry once type deals

Those threaded cutters sound like the ones a Clarkson Auto Lock (chuck system) uses. My take on things - depending on what you are doing, I wouldn't waste my time using HSS anything ... I'd be setting myself up to use tungsten carbide indexable cutters. This is my personal experience, but then again I have a pretty narrow scope of what I use mills and lathe to do, plus I've never had any formal training. 

27 minutes ago, RXFORD said:

Do you get those re-hardened?

Why?

7 hours ago, chris r said:

No not yet 

Yep yep, I have acted as your dude on the ground in the Manawatu before - no worries doing it again. Sing out if you have the need. 

@chris rHave you sorted this Christopher?

@bonkasHey man, have you sorted this?