johnny.race

Do you know what is the common dia of rim usually used on VW's? I've never had anything to do with near most all 4cyl sedans/hatches - fucking cars bro. I lived under a rock and had pickups and the older stuff all my life.

This is a s4/s5 caliper on a Hilux diff using the 273mm OEM style rotor. It fits a 15" rim with a bit of room to spare. This a an rx8 caliper mocked up on the s4/s5 OEM style rotor. As can be seen it won't work due to the shape of the bracket. I have not tried an OEM rx8 rotor as it's large diameter precludes use with a 15" diameter rim in any case. The caliper fits an OEM style s6 rotor but the combo will not work with a 15" rim either. I've been spending a bit of time in several disc brake rotor data bases looking for options. The s6 rotor might be able to made to work with the rx8 caliper with some diameter reduction but I'd like to avoid having to trim anything unless absolutely necessary. The s6 rotor is OEM 294mm in diameter. I'm guessing something around 285mm dia might work. Fun and games. I put you wrong re all of the brake adaptions I sell working with 15" rims. The brackets I sell will allow the smaller types of calipers I cater for (sp20, zre152, u13) to work with 14" rims. That's current but I might have to revise this going forward with any new design packages that will allow use of later (TBA) calipers and stick to 15" rims. The pic above shows the s13 rotor (258mm dia) I typically use for most of the smaller fitments. Sitting on it is a VW golf mk5 caliper. Clearly not going to work for two reasons - rotors too small in diameter and mounting points fouling housing. They are quite deep/tall there aye? There might be a balance with a rotor in the mid 270's - 280's and it still being able to fit with a 15" rim. I might check things out.

Thanks for this @cletus a pic goes a long way towards explaining things. I was thinking of posting a few up myself to swap notes/observations/determinations as it were. Hear from me.

Funny you say this Clint. I've just finished doing r&d on the feasibility of making mk5 Golf ones work. I've found a yard down here full of them. They are a bit small but not appreciably smaller than sp20/U13 and a couple of other small type ones I fit. One of the constraints I have is rim diameter. All of my combo's are designed to fit 15" rims. Those mk5's (as small as they are) won't allow this on a Hilux using commonly available OEM based rotors. So yeah. You've mentioned to me previously about bringing calipers in from rockauto. I've resisted using new but It's looking more and more likely I will have to start sourcing new. Gawd, we are living through those times aye? Over the last decade I have seen this shit dry up before my very eyes Been fucking around with rx8 calipers too - reasonably common but try and find a rotor that will work with them in the confines of a 15" steelie ... then let me know, lol! Cheers.

Fuck I'm glad I'm in OS. Yep, fuck this new shit. Checked it out and nup. Keep looking.

Attraction? Scarcity. The increasing scarcity of (suitable) calipers that feature an integral handbrake within their design. Most (late) rear calipers are the type that work with drum in hat/banksia handbrake setup. The ultimate end use for all of this is disc brake conversion(s) on a live axle. In this case, the live axle is the G series Hilux. Adapting a banksia setup is difficult due to a number of reasons - brake offset not withstanding. Over the years I've designed/sold a couple of bolt on disc brake setups (integral handbrake type) on narrowed diffs I build. They've proved to be quite popular but I'm finding it increasingly difficult to keep my stocks of calipers up. Some types I can't find at all. Thus the reason I'm asking about these type of calipers. I'm doing r&d.

Does anyone know about these? Do they need an ECU plugged into them to work or can they be made to work with 12v power in/out/switch sorta setup? Anyone fucked around with them? @cletusmate, is this sorta stuff (OEM setup that's been adapted to a live axle) show itself much in what comes through your work?

Bulldozers like 3ph stick welders. Used 3ph stick welders are cheap and powerful. The worlds ya oyster in terms of cheap (for what it is) used industrial spec gear when you stump up for 3ph in your shed.

This build ceased and the car sold. Lack of motivation/time and changing interests being the culprits. Yet another notch in the bedhead of broken dreams (I pinched these words from @sluggy) Life goes on. Cheers.

These words sum things up succinctly. I'm going to pinch them. Ta.

You don't email Howat - you ring him. I've built diffs before for customers using his axles. I've never ordered any myself - I've moreso been the guy that supplies the cores and builds the housing. The only time I direct someone his way (and this has happened a few times) is if a length of axle is required that can't be got by juggling pinion offset and no OEM axle has meat in the place its needed for a respline. From what I've seen his work is good, the product meaty, accurate and would be strong. He uses a appropriately sized 4340 shaft that is splined in soft state prior to being hardened. He uses a LN85 (or similar) OEM axle core and cuts the shaft from off the flange. He bores the flange and its shrunk onto the new shaft and secured by welding it inside the bored out brake hub register (from the outside) I've checked his work between centers (I'm lying - I grabbed the brake hub register in a chuck) and held the pointy end in a live center. and the bearing journal ran near true according to a DTI. I was actually surprised. I've seen some shockers come in the door straight out of supposedly good running differentials. Best to ring him.

The 2nd from the left is a Surf 6 stud axle that's been drilled for 4 x 114.3PCD. The forging chamfer/bevel/gusset whatever has been taken down from OEM 6 stud size to OEM 5 stud size. That axle next to it, 3rd from the left, is an LN85 item OEM 5 stud. The 5 stud OEM PCD is 114.3mm. See - same size. The 2 outer axles are untouched 6 stud items. The 1st one is one of those 6 stud Hiace ones. The last one is a Surf item. Its clear the OEM Lux 6 stud axle is built more butty than its lesser studded sibling. I might have done the odd 100mm PCD over the years. Not nice though, you end up leaving less material than what the factory deemed was ok on its smallest axle. Just my 2c worth. You can lessen the chunking action undertaken by running a small headed wheel stud and running everything close. The factory Lux 5 stud studs feature quite a large diameter head, are sorta stumpy/shortish and require more material removal to work. This area is a specialist area bro where special cunts operate, lol!

Those axles are from the 40's or 50's series of Luxers. I'm guessing LN56/57 given the 4 lugs in the register and the later style of bearing housing being used. They'd be around the 685mm mark in length OEM and were worth something before being blazed and having meat chunked out of the rear flange in order to get that small PCD to fit. Out of interest, are AE101 rear calipers the same as AE92's?

Yeah bro. Its that one place where all that money, effort and time you've spent building power, guts and performance - umm meet. Whether you're paying for it or not, Its not a place to skimp. You'll be found out.

What wheel stud PCD would you be looking at? What sorta brake setup are you hoping to run? I know where there are a couple of 1350's and a 1365 I think. The pinion is centered in one of the 1350's and I'm not sure where it is in the other two. In anycase - they'd/it'd be offset to a lesser extent than the OEM Hilux all are.

Clint, you're talking about the wheels here aye? Not the rotor floating between the rim and axle flange face - held in place and located by the wheel studs. Yes?

Talofa gents. The longest axles that still make use of the conventional style Hilux wheel bearing holder housing register are the KUN's. You be wanting the early KUN that is sans ABS. 5 stud or 6 name your poison - they are both XL in length compared to the earlier stuff. You'd be doing well to get a 6 stud Hiace axle to work with a Hilux housing - Toyota changed the OD of the wheel bearing. Those 6 stud Hiaces are truly a HD setup and are bigger than a normal Lux.. The reason 5 stud axles are not popular for 4 stud conversions is due to the fact there is no room on the flange face to fit 4 extra holes. You can but it looks dodgy. You can weld but that can be a dodgy proposition too due to this practice being frowned upon by some cert inspectors. So as @cletus pointed out - enter the 6 stud. The vintage and model of vehicle the 6 stud axle originally came from determines what style center it comes with. Look at the dirty great sink hole in the center of the axle on the left hand side compared to the other. All 6 stud axles are shallow in the middle and you need to be leaving as much OEM material in place as possible to give yourself every chance of obtaining a hubcentric fit of the rotor. This feat is made more difficult due to the fact most rotors having a big arsed bevel on the inner face of the hat. You get one shot at it. Fuck it up, the rotor rattles around and the axle is basically scrap. There isn't even enuff meat in the remaining center to tack a ring on with any certainty. You can but well you run the chance of having a shit load of time and effort in a custom width narrowed axle only for it to fail at cert inspection time. You are after this. The other challenge is the forging chamfer/bevel on the back face of the axle. There are basically 2 options to seat the head of a wheel stud being used in a smaller PCD than the OEM Hilux 6 stud PCD - counterbore or lessening the OEM chamfer/bevel dia. Who's got a counterbore setup in their shed on a machine rigid enuff to hold an axle to no/nada/zilch movement. Yeah nah, The diameter is brought down to the OEM 5 stud size leaving a beautifully big and generous chamfer cut. Like this. In everything that you do with axles - you only want to be removing what you have to. Hilux's have generous axle flange thickness. This is one of their strengths. I do my best to play to it. Cheers.

Yep yep, I have acted as your dude on the ground in the Manawatu before - no worries doing it again. Sing out if you have the need.

@chris rHave you sorted this Christopher?

@bonkasHey man, have you sorted this?

That form that @piazzanoob linked is what NZTA told me I needed to submit so sent one out to me to print off. My situation is I have got a vehicle that has all its tags, they all line up, but came with another vehicles licence plates. Forgetting the incorrect number plates and referring to the vehicles OEM frame number and body tag identifiers - there is no history of it in NZTA's database. Vehicle is a mid 80's item. The part that stuck in my mind from my phone discussion with them is that there must be a part (I dunno - I never read right through it) that one of NZTA's 'agents' had to fill in. This to verify that what was being submitted to NZTA did indeed describe the vehicle sitting in front of the agent. This to start the VIN process.

Spoke to a (very helpful) dude at NZTA. Told him what I was about and he did a search of their database. Result - nothing. Nada showing up connected to the frame number I gave to him. A little bit more info on this truck ... I purchased it as parts from off a farm. It was a mudball on wheels. It'd been there for a fair while I'm guessing. They (the farmer and co) only registered it (farm rego) so that they could use it on the road for cow movement management. I might actually make contact with them again and see what I can dig up. Meanwhile, I've put the truck's rego on hold until I can see a way forward. Back to my conversation with NZTA. He said for instances like it sounded I've found myself in, rectification - be it resurrection of the old ID or issue of a new one all started with one of 'their' agents (understandable) verifying that the vehicle is as its been described - previous ID able to be established/confirmed or not even. I thought I knew how/where the older Lux's carried their ID marks but stand to be schooled. I might carry this line of talk on in the Hilux thread. A line of thought that entered my head (and I try not to think this way) was that if it all started to feel like the squeeze was not going to be worth the juice - go about things in reverse (sorta) and get the truck certified for a chassis/engine swap due to rust and brokenness. This would line up all the ducks again - or is my thinking screwed.

Put the chassis number into carjam. Got this. "It appears the vehicle is not in New Zealand yet. CarJam can provide Japan History. Put the chassis number into the Police link. got this. "Vehicle is currently listed as NOT STOLEN" When down to the local VTNZ and got nothing from them when they tried the frame number in their system. The lady gave me the Waka Kotahi Road User Charges ph number to see check in with them to see if something comes up as being owed by the vehicle with this chassis number. Currently listening to this shit music being played on loop waiting for someone to talk to.

Dudes, I have a Hilux that I brought for parts. It came rego'd but the number plates don't match this vehicle. This truck is clearly an LN65 where as the plates are for a YN67. LN means diesel in old Hilux speak where as YN means petrol. This truck is a diesel and so would have been paying RUC in a former life. The truck has body tag but no VIN tag. I'm guessing the truck is around being a 1984/5 model. The chassis number on the tag matches the number stamped into the frame. Same same deal re the engine number - everything matches just not the rego, lol! Even though this is a rusty worn out pig, I'm entertaining the idea of maybe making this truck good again given I probably have enough good parts on hand to allow it to happen. I want it legit though. So I guess the first step would be to check if the chassis number equates to anything in the big arse database that Transport NZ maintain? And see the cops also? Advice please. I want to be sure there is a clear path for the truck to become legit before I start investing in it. Plus I'm scared of RUC shit coming around to bite me in the bum. I don't mind spending money and don't mind some new white plates, but legit-ness and not being liable for previously owed RUC is what is important to me. This said, if there was a small sum owing and that was all that stood between it becoming legal etc - then I'd probably stump up. But anyway ...