johnny.race

Those axles are from the 40's or 50's series of Luxers. I'm guessing LN56/57 given the 4 lugs in the register and the later style of bearing housing being used. They'd be around the 685mm mark in length OEM and were worth something before being blazed and having meat chunked out of the rear flange in order to get that small PCD to fit. Out of interest, are AE101 rear calipers the same as AE92's?

Yeah bro. Its that one place where all that money, effort and time you've spent building power, guts and performance - umm meet. Whether you're paying for it or not, Its not a place to skimp. You'll be found out.

What wheel stud PCD would you be looking at? What sorta brake setup are you hoping to run? I know where there are a couple of 1350's and a 1365 I think. The pinion is centered in one of the 1350's and I'm not sure where it is in the other two. In anycase - they'd/it'd be offset to a lesser extent than the OEM Hilux all are.

Clint, you're talking about the wheels here aye? Not the rotor floating between the rim and axle flange face - held in place and located by the wheel studs. Yes?

Talofa gents. The longest axles that still make use of the conventional style Hilux wheel bearing holder housing register are the KUN's. You be wanting the early KUN that is sans ABS. 5 stud or 6 name your poison - they are both XL in length compared to the earlier stuff. You'd be doing well to get a 6 stud Hiace axle to work with a Hilux housing - Toyota changed the OD of the wheel bearing. Those 6 stud Hiaces are truly a HD setup and are bigger than a normal Lux.. The reason 5 stud axles are not popular for 4 stud conversions is due to the fact there is no room on the flange face to fit 4 extra holes. You can but it looks dodgy. You can weld but that can be a dodgy proposition too due to this practice being frowned upon by some cert inspectors. So as @cletus pointed out - enter the 6 stud. The vintage and model of vehicle the 6 stud axle originally came from determines what style center it comes with. Look at the dirty great sink hole in the center of the axle on the left hand side compared to the other. All 6 stud axles are shallow in the middle and you need to be leaving as much OEM material in place as possible to give yourself every chance of obtaining a hubcentric fit of the rotor. This feat is made more difficult due to the fact most rotors having a big arsed bevel on the inner face of the hat. You get one shot at it. Fuck it up, the rotor rattles around and the axle is basically scrap. There isn't even enuff meat in the remaining center to tack a ring on with any certainty. You can but well you run the chance of having a shit load of time and effort in a custom width narrowed axle only for it to fail at cert inspection time. You are after this. The other challenge is the forging chamfer/bevel on the back face of the axle. There are basically 2 options to seat the head of a wheel stud being used in a smaller PCD than the OEM Hilux 6 stud PCD - counterbore or lessening the OEM chamfer/bevel dia. Who's got a counterbore setup in their shed on a machine rigid enuff to hold an axle to no/nada/zilch movement. Yeah nah, The diameter is brought down to the OEM 5 stud size leaving a beautifully big and generous chamfer cut. Like this. In everything that you do with axles - you only want to be removing what you have to. Hilux's have generous axle flange thickness. This is one of their strengths. I do my best to play to it. Cheers.

Yep yep, I have acted as your dude on the ground in the Manawatu before - no worries doing it again. Sing out if you have the need.

@chris rHave you sorted this Christopher?

@bonkasHey man, have you sorted this?

That form that @piazzanoob linked is what NZTA told me I needed to submit so sent one out to me to print off. My situation is I have got a vehicle that has all its tags, they all line up, but came with another vehicles licence plates. Forgetting the incorrect number plates and referring to the vehicles OEM frame number and body tag identifiers - there is no history of it in NZTA's database. Vehicle is a mid 80's item. The part that stuck in my mind from my phone discussion with them is that there must be a part (I dunno - I never read right through it) that one of NZTA's 'agents' had to fill in. This to verify that what was being submitted to NZTA did indeed describe the vehicle sitting in front of the agent. This to start the VIN process.

Spoke to a (very helpful) dude at NZTA. Told him what I was about and he did a search of their database. Result - nothing. Nada showing up connected to the frame number I gave to him. A little bit more info on this truck ... I purchased it as parts from off a farm. It was a mudball on wheels. It'd been there for a fair while I'm guessing. They (the farmer and co) only registered it (farm rego) so that they could use it on the road for cow movement management. I might actually make contact with them again and see what I can dig up. Meanwhile, I've put the truck's rego on hold until I can see a way forward. Back to my conversation with NZTA. He said for instances like it sounded I've found myself in, rectification - be it resurrection of the old ID or issue of a new one all started with one of 'their' agents (understandable) verifying that the vehicle is as its been described - previous ID able to be established/confirmed or not even. I thought I knew how/where the older Lux's carried their ID marks but stand to be schooled. I might carry this line of talk on in the Hilux thread. A line of thought that entered my head (and I try not to think this way) was that if it all started to feel like the squeeze was not going to be worth the juice - go about things in reverse (sorta) and get the truck certified for a chassis/engine swap due to rust and brokenness. This would line up all the ducks again - or is my thinking screwed.

Put the chassis number into carjam. Got this. "It appears the vehicle is not in New Zealand yet. CarJam can provide Japan History. Put the chassis number into the Police link. got this. "Vehicle is currently listed as NOT STOLEN" When down to the local VTNZ and got nothing from them when they tried the frame number in their system. The lady gave me the Waka Kotahi Road User Charges ph number to see check in with them to see if something comes up as being owed by the vehicle with this chassis number. Currently listening to this shit music being played on loop waiting for someone to talk to.

Dudes, I have a Hilux that I brought for parts. It came rego'd but the number plates don't match this vehicle. This truck is clearly an LN65 where as the plates are for a YN67. LN means diesel in old Hilux speak where as YN means petrol. This truck is a diesel and so would have been paying RUC in a former life. The truck has body tag but no VIN tag. I'm guessing the truck is around being a 1984/5 model. The chassis number on the tag matches the number stamped into the frame. Same same deal re the engine number - everything matches just not the rego, lol! Even though this is a rusty worn out pig, I'm entertaining the idea of maybe making this truck good again given I probably have enough good parts on hand to allow it to happen. I want it legit though. So I guess the first step would be to check if the chassis number equates to anything in the big arse database that Transport NZ maintain? And see the cops also? Advice please. I want to be sure there is a clear path for the truck to become legit before I start investing in it. Plus I'm scared of RUC shit coming around to bite me in the bum. I don't mind spending money and don't mind some new white plates, but legit-ness and not being liable for previously owed RUC is what is important to me. This said, if there was a small sum owing and that was all that stood between it becoming legal etc - then I'd probably stump up. But anyway ...

Who's the other guy?

Is there a catch or something with running a late model engine (1uz/ls1 etc) in a scratch built hotrod? I seem to remember something but can't recall. Does it mean the build has to comply with some frontal impact thingy or something that you would not have to consider if you were running a donk from out of the 60's/70's. Ta.

Yep yip, axle retention works, got it. Makes sense. Maybe a HD bearing retainer set up with a spacer or something to preload the seal even more than stock. Cool. Ta man. Cool diffs them Borgies.

@Lord Gruntfuttock Hi, what sorta thing do they do to the axles to prepare them for rally use, out of interest.

I kicked a son out of the shed for doing this. Told him to get all of his shit out of there and to go find someone elses shed to fuck. This was years ago. He owns a big shed now and notice he doesn't use his trusses as a lifting beam. Go figure. I've seen 4 by 2 sized studs used to support another piece of 4 by 2 that had been tied to the truss before. The car was driven between the studs and the truss is supported by them and reinforced with that other 4 by 2. Worked ok. Not in my shed(s) though. I'm the sorta cunt that would not use a piece of my shed like a crane. We use seat belts down at the yard. All the yards do - scrap and wreckers. The day someone loses a limb will be the day that practice stops in that particular yard. I wouldn't use the method in my shed. There is fuck all adjustment and no undoing. Expedient application only. There is a massive difference when you look at a rated' chain and something sold from out of a hardware store. I've got a couple of chains I got from Steel and Tube. Good quality stuff fitted with a snatch/grab hook on one end. Can adjust for anything. They are used for everything. I wouldn't trust those Carabena looking things in the pics above. You want over kill when you lift something. Failure or risk of is unacceptable. Drop something onto your pride and joy or even worse - your donk on to the concrete from a reasonable height and you'll understand why lifting is one place you don't take risks or skimp in. Ask me.

Couldn't help myself. Thought about it all weekend. Told myself waste of money, don't really need it. Then made the mistake of watching TIG Welding 101 et.al on Youtube and that was it - the voice from the laptop told me I in fact, did need one! And that I needed one as soon as could be had. So this morning, me and my LN106 shot down to Tradezone and plunked down the dosh. Hummed and harrrrd about what bottle size and thought fuck it, get another Eziswap G. Hummed and harrrrd between the Viper180 and this and thought fuck it also. Spending alot of my dosh now - whats some extra? And this is where I am. Need a trolley and have decided to cobble one together from stuff lying around but will need to buy some wheels. The ones on TM look flimsy and I've seen what full G sized bottle does to them. Oh yeah, and did not get a foot pedal. I'm not unpacking this thing for a while yet as I have got other stuff on the go. But yeah, chur. Something to look forward to.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/listing/3105254297?bof=dBlc1eN2 https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/listing/3108893243?bof=dBlc1eN2 https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/welders/listing/3110313145?bof=dBlc1eN2 3 ac/dc TIG Welders. All seemingly in cooee of each other but I am not a TIG welder in the slightest so don't have an appreciation for the specs. I want to be a TIG welder though. Not a guru but enough to be able to use it satisfactorily for small scale fabrication of stuff for me ie. puke cans, alum brackets and header work etc. Plus I want to be able to generally fuck around - normal shit. I want something with pulse. I am shopping in and around the 1.5 - 2.5k (give or take) region not counting bottle purchase. Comments please.

@flyingbrick chur matey. Ta for the heads up. Nah, I'm not into bikes so don't read those threads. Hehe, I totally get life's nuances man and respect dudes taking matters in hand when confronted with them. Cheers.

@flyingbrick, any movement on LQ4 front?

@Muncie Mate, are you still working in the field that fucks around with these things? If so, question - I've noticed that when a 1/2" torque wrench (tw) is rated above around the 150ft/lbs mark the price goes up. I need something 1/2" in the 200ft/lbs range and see that 3/4" tw's that are priced near the same as the 150ft 1/2" ones do this easily. I was wondering if using a 3/4 to 1/2" adapter on a 3/4" tw would still work alright for measuring torque in general use. It should aye? I was/am looking at something from Teng Tools around the $320 range. Does this level of spend get me something that is ok? Is Teng Tools tw's ok do you know? I'm currently using a Warren Brown deflecting beam and its been very good for/to me but tops out at 150. Haha, can I machine out that slot a little more and call it 200? :)) Cheers bro. You do work with these things aye? Or did I read one of your posts wrong.

Hi @nels two questions ... you say don't weld or don't weld all(?) of the rear tub to the inside of the rear fender. Just so I picture it right - the tub is welded front, rear and to the chassis rail but sits near as flush to, and is contoured to the inside of the rear guard - but not permanently fixed to it. Yeah? If not, can you put my understanding right mate? Also, what do you use to seal (is it sealed?) the tub to the inside of the guard if it is floating there? Ta. And, when you decided to stretch the rear wheel arch - was there any method to the madness? Or just what looks good/some space to get the wheel off. Cheers man. Ta.

Re those rear caliper brackets your mate made ... are they a 2 piece deal ie steel onto the diff housing then with a hunk of machined alloy to adapt the caliper to the steel plate? Or full alloy. Cheers.