HumberSS

Very cool build, following with great interest!

I would just spin some dowels up on a lathe and drill them out. They are only for location/alignment so the hardness probably doesn't matter too much, mild steel would be fine. Likewise with your water pump, get a machinist to skim the back off the impeller and refit.

Best way to do this is buy a whol leaf so you don't get scalped on batteries. They have some good power, and even better once you add the openinverter.org board, which you need anyway to do the conversion. I daily a leaf, and man it's quite shit but it's got this awesome whack of midrange and always surprises people. They weight 1600kg too, just as a shit unknown fact.

Thanks @browndog. I never thought about the alternator load/belt slippage it's a good point. The triangulation of the cradle has crossed my mind also. It's heavy wall tube, but you are right perhaps there will be a 'hammering effect' from the weight over time. Welding the mounts on has actually bowed those tubes ever so slightly which has made me wonder about long term strength. I'm going to get the cert guy in this week so will run it by him, but I think you are right, a bit of triangulation would definitely help. Appreciate the feedback mate.

+1 for the pinto ;)

Finished a header today

my grinder bit and swung around and fully slapped my arm. It took 3 weeks for the purple to go away. Note to self, pay attention... most of the framing mods on the body complete, a little more steel required around the top then will make engine cover accordingly. Probably way later on though. There are some horrible shit traps under the camper body, places where stones and shit just collects en-masse. It actually is corroding the ally from the inside - galvanic shit. I reckon I dug/blew about 5kg of shit out. This will all get painted, then soft-seal, then Ill bend up some ally flashing and glue in place to stop it happening any more.

Someone had had a go at repairing the chassis. It was technically sound enough but I dont think the authorities would have liked it. I ended up re miging it then grinding it back then fuse tiging it to ensure a fully penetrated weld from both sides. As good as new in my opinion. This was made entirely from scrap. Its nice to have quality scrap lying about.

Nursing hangover. Some pics relating to above. Probably self explanatory. If anyone knows the pinouts on the trans or has a wiring diagram on how to hook up the OD that would be mint. Happy new year.

I've had 1.5 beers since Xmas. I feel surprisingly good. I will investigate mechanical fan if needed but I think its an easy last minute addition. I also haven't got a fan or fan mount clutch thingy, and it's not common to other yotas so I need to scour tardme for a bit

I left my charger at work. Did I mention you were a cunt?

Last update August...fuck where did that year go?? I've been at it, but in fits and starts. There was a solid month where I just walked past it every day and got depressed, but work was just too full on and other life shit as well. If only we could just live in our sheds and tell the rest of the world to fuck off. Oh, and someone else picked up the tab... I'm gonna update pics tomorrow as my puta died.. So some time about way back then I finally located an A42DL 4 spd OD Trans w lockup torque converter. (After much subsequent reading on Trans cooling I am now very glad for the lockup converter) It's essentially the same as my factory 3spd Toyoglide that came behind the 4v, but with an extra gear thrown on the front and the bellhousing lengthened to accommodate. The lazy bastards at toyota even stuck with the same locating diameter for the bellhousing to Trans, which makes life infinitely better. After fully scoping the plan I actually put this to one side for a bit, but in the last few weeks finally got to chopping up the A42DL bellhousing to weld to the 4V bellhousing. I'm keeping the 4v flex plate, and have redrilled the mounting holes for the 4spd torque converter as they were 1mm out - fuck you toyota. Have done a butload of measuring to ensure the whole sandwich will fit together, and then attacked the bellhousing with the angle grinder, followed by some finessing on the mill. I am going to have to apply liberal amounts of Weld in a few key areas owing to my roughness. Hindsight is a beautiful thing, but it'llbesweetbro. Welding not yet done, and spigoting torque converter to crankshaft is also on imminent list. I actually momentarily diverted to cab things also for a night, and set to work drilling a fuckton of spotwelds and prying rusty panels apart. It was a good feeling, as the cab is rather a daunting project in its own right. But cutting shit off it was kind of cathartic and reduced the enormity of it in my head somewhat. I'm pretty capable at fixing rusty shit if I do say so myself, but this will nonetheless be a big push. I farmed the bolt on panels out to my mate who is properly good at making rust-be-gone, so that too has lightened the load. Just as a segue, strategically the planned order of events is to finish driveline tings - fabrication etc (which is not terribly far off, some cunty shit around handbrake though), finish the underside of the camper body, which is mostly cleaning and painting and a little bit of minor fab, blast and paint chassis and all recently fabd stuff, including wheels and fuel tank etc, then start fitting the whole chassis, diff, driveline back together, get wiring tidied up and rerun, and then bolt the chassis back underneath the camper body so it's all rolling again, then I'll be aiming to fire that sweet bitch up. Then I'll probably focus on getting the camper body watertight and painted, and the cab will be last. Then I'll probably finish all the actual internal camper amenities such as solar controller hot water etc etc at the very end. I think. Anyway, the story goes. After the minor deviation on the cab I got back to business mounting the engine. I'd drawn it all up in solidworks and had a bunch of profile cutting done and spent a few nights knocking that together. It was a little bit of educated/tape-measure/best guess work, but after tacking the subframe together I was pleasantly surprised that the engine bolted straight in and everything lined up reeaal nice, both engine to subframe and subframe to chassis. My mig was giving me the shits so I decided to tig it, which turned out much tidier. Pics to come. So the engine is now fully slung in the chassis, and I've had the box hanging off the back of it - sans bellhousing- but all bolted up to flexplate and torque converter etc. Welding bellhousing is now becoming a priority so I can sort crossmember. I brought a new rear Trans mount as mine was toast. I also picked up a new set of king pins and a facet fuel pump in anticipation of the main event. Once I have the Trans done and crossmember sorted I will whip the diff out to finish the handbrake setup. Recent weeks have seen me revisit the radiator, which if you see the previous post was all but sorted. I decided to build a fan shroud and buy a 14" electric thermo fan. I was able to adapt the original shroud and I'm pretty happy how it turned out. @ThePog is giving me ass about needing a mechanical fan as well but I'm just ignoring that know it all cunt until I'm proven wrong. Also, I've now started building the headers. Who knew how cunty a job that is?? Owing to the smallish capacity (around 1.7L per bank, 3.4L Total) and the port sizes I opted for 1-3/8, (or 35mm for you millenials) primary tubing. I therefore had to make my own collector. I remain eternally thankful for the gear I have to make shit with, and the relative ease it affords me for such tasks, seriously. The linisher was my friend here. The original plan was a quite elaborate set of headers which were trying to approach equal length (again solidworks/thinking mans tobacco). I had my flanges profiled from 10mm plate and have jigged up a setup to build them on a pallet as I'm fucked if I'm building them in-situ. Anyway, YouTube wormholes, opinions from cunts, and the practicality of only buying 8 u-bends have led me back to more of a shorty style header design, which also happens to be way more simple. I'm about to finish the first one so watch this space. Yeah so, shit has happened, and it feels like I'm getting close to the hump of the major 'engineering' work. I'll get pics up for all you window-lickers asap. Chur

Yeah seen those was hoping to find something a little more affordable. Otherwise we will just machine down an existing shaft.

Anyone here built a single rotor from a 12a or 13b? Even better anyone got an already machined eccentric shaft lying about? My boy at work is wanting to build one, its kinda piqued my interest. Helps that he took me for a blast in his 370hp series one rx7...sweet jesus

Hey man cool build im interested in your diesel hot water setup. Cheers

Im also just posting this here so I can refer back to it, this was a thread started before the main thread, and one which I will revive here/in discussion

pics relating to above ..

Last few weeks have been semi productive, if a little convoluted in terms of achieving the desired outcome - but achieve I did. Following on from last thread, I brought the Delta, turned out that was a comedy of errors. I asked the dude what the diameter of diff head and bolt count was - around 320mm he assured me. I had roughly measured mine at 300mm...it was close enough to warrant the half hour trip south the confirm exactly. Got there and scoped it out with a mate of mine who knows more than a thing or two, measured diff head at 300mm - what I had hoped. Good to go. Also started talking of other bits we were going to raid off it, I think at this point the dude had a few regrets as he had another one with some fucked bits on it...so I threw the cash at him and loaded that fucker on and hightailed it. Got it back to work, double measured both diff heads, turns out mine was 320mm. Dumb Cunt. Spent an arvo ripping some other shit off - most of which was done to make me feel good about the wasted effort, and little of which I may actually use. The fuel tank however was a better size and shape, 80L was ample. I got to Monday morning and thought to myself - well what am I going to do with this half fucked POS that I no longer want in my workshop... Rang the local truck wreckers and told him of my conundrum - all I need is a diff of better ratio, are you interested in a swap for a half fucked Delta that supposedly runs. Its on the trailer and I can drop it off now - I was persuasive (/desperate..). He pointed us to the earliest Dyna diff he had lying about in his stack, we ripped an axle out but it was bigger than mine so we proceeded to rummage through an endless pile of dyna diffs ripping axles out and measuring - but to no avail. It was a biting cold miserable day so we ditched the Delta there, not before actually firing it up so as to make good on our end of the deal - it lived! We resolved to come back when the weather came good, and also rip the fuel tank off the Delta, about the only truly useful thing from it... When I got back to pick up the diff and rip the tank off a few days later ole mate Rodge, with all the requisite finesse of a ballerina had managed to stove in the fuel tank - avoiding every other fucked bit of shit around it - shot bro. Anyway I grabbed the diff and he let me rummage through his pile of tanks - turns out that was a far better outcome.. We werent hopeful with the diff situation but it was kindof our only choice. Got it back to work, ripped the cunt apart and low and behold the diff head looked near identical internally (despite the external casting differences) and all the key measurements stacked up. It was a 4.7:1 ratio too, which is ideal. My math tells me that the little 4V will be humming to the tune of about 3150rpm at a hundy in top which is far better than where we were. A few days later we ripped the other diff head out, pulled the diff center out and swapped the new ring gear onto it, then dumped that all into the new diff head. This obviously negated the need to pull the pinion, which as some would know is kindof a cunt of a job, and also my original pinion was leaking like a motherfucker - this one was dry so a no-brainer really. So we then dropped the freshly assembled new diff head back into the diff after a nice cleanup, as well as gave the brakes a tear down and inspection. These have clearly been done in recent times - the cylinders looked pretty new and the pads had barely bedded in so its good to know the whole arse-end is now in tip-top shape. Once that was all back together I then finished ripping off the last few bits of shit left on the chassis before giving it a full steam clean. I then pulled it back in the workshop, sprayed a bit of caustic cleaner on it for the night and then followed up with a second steam clean the following day to neutralise - its pretty raw now so the decision has been made to sandblast it in the next couply weeks. Undecided if I will pay someone to blast and paint or bother doing it myself - the former option will be relatively cheap but consume 2 days of my life. The latter option means I get the desired result and keep 2 days of my life. If Im honest it will probably work out better in many ways to just outsource this whole cunting bit of the job. The former option also requires much more logistics than my forklift and a 5 minute trip around the corner. Speaking of forklifts, I hammered up a BBall hoop out of some square bar to entertain the minions.. So whilst I have been figuring out the paint situation (or rather coming to the likely inevitible conclusion of spunking money I dont have) I thought Id set-to with getting a few other bits sorted on the chassis before it gets a lick. I mounted up my new tank. Fuck I am stoked with this, it was a totally mint tank, much shorter than my original, which means no encroachment into my battery area now and it measured up at a very healthy 87L capacity - fully in the pocket. I also started to mount up my radiator. A few months back I randomly happened upon a 4-core 70 series Landcruiser radiator on FB marketplace locally for $150 which looked like it had potential. It was re-cored, had never been used and just been sitting around in someones shed for years. She gave me a few measurements and it looked like it could be the go - so I lowballed her and got it for $130. Criminal. I offered this up into the original position but it was about 80mm taller than the original, which necessitated some minor adjustment to the chassis xmember. I havent quite finished this as I keep forgetting to order a couple of universal rubber mounts for the bottom, but Ive trimmed some shit and mostly done the necessary fab to get it sitting exactly where the original was - will finish in due course. I then cast my mind to the handbrake situation. I actually started a bit of a sub-thread here as I thought it might be useful info for someone else in a similar conundrum at a later stage (will update that thread too..) So essentially in most trucks, the handbrake is affixed to the back of the trans rather than how cars work. Its clever, but given I am running a car motor and box this presents challenges - namely there is nowhere to confidently mount a handbrake mech to the back of the box without considerable brain-hurt. So I found a bit of info on pinion mounted brakes, which seem common on rock-crawler type stuff and various other things. I had semi settled on the idea of using a disk to ease aforementioned brain-hurt - but then went round in circle a bit on the thread entertaining all possibilities, with @smokin'joe rightfully re-questioning the disk logic...it got me to further thinking. Anyway, I had to go back to the truck wreckers to get a driveshaft as the flange bolt pattern was slightly different to my original. I thought while I was at it, Id give him back the diff I had brought instead of scrapping it for $5 with some fucking scum cunt ripoff scrap metal dealer. I was happy to pay for a driveshaft, and a brake setup, suffice to say Rodge is genuinely a fucking good cunt (Lorryland Tariki FYI) and let me once again rummage. I found a drum brake off an Isuzu which I thought might be workable. Got it back to work and by-fuck the thing just about slipped right over the pinion flange. A little massaging with the die-grinder and it was loosely in the posi it needed to be - so I basically now need to machine up some sort of alignment piece to mount/align it to the pinion so as I can then fab the bracketry to hold it. It will be a mish, but Im glad I have a fairly solid direction now, and of course with it being truck-spec my cert dude should be happy. I managed to track down a king-pin kit in NZ also as one of mine is marginal so may as well sort, but just need to pull one out and measure before ordering. Will sus. So the most recent task has been to jump back onto the motor to get this ready for firing up. There are a few things left to sort here, the first is the alternator bracket, the second is the degraded bakelite-looking bits around the plug tubes which seal to the rocker covers - which I need to machine up, and the last is the headers. I had already got bits cut for my alternator bracket so I proceeded to start sorting that. My CAD was not as ideal as I had originally thought so once I finally offered the actual plate up to the engine I realised two things - I made the holes stupidly oversized.. which kindof doesnt really matter, and the shape was a bit shit and needed some additional massaging. Anyway, it all worked out not too bad - on the second attempt. I think a few less doobies would have helped.. This was really the only posi it could occupy, and of course being both free, and of considerable amperage it fit the bill rather well. Main problem is owing to its girth and position there is not a lot of swing for tightening the belt. My worker is a rotorhead and brought in a tensioner off an RX7 so I hacked that up for belt tensioning duties and just fixed the alternator in posi using a U-bolt. I spun up a little ally idler pully on the lathe and replaced the bearing. Its a bit Heath-Robinson but fuck it, it will work. Basically I am now waiting for the 1st of the month to roll around so I can order a bunch of profile cutting which I wont have to think about paying for for 2 months... this will be engine mounts, header flanges and handbrake bracketry, which should keep me fairly well occupied for the next month or so. Also @ThePog will be an old cunt (50!) this week so Im heading down to remind him so on Friday - and get shitfaced courtesy of Richmond Fresh Choices amazing beer selection. It inconveniences my progress, but man-love knows no bounds. Chur.

@NickJ we did a linux cnc refit of a morbidelli. Its going great. I cant tell you a lot as i paid a dude to largely do it because my brain hurt thinking about it - but he was also the dude that advised @ThePog on his linux cnc build. Its an excellent machine and farking accurate.. more z height would be good for me, but 200 travel is prob acceptable for most.

Ive got a 48mm Weber IDA flange dxf if anyones interested. Am about to cut one also so hit me up if you want one as it will be cheaper than you getting it cut yourself.

Thanks mate, yeah i have a machine shop so can kinda make anything in terms of mounting and disk geometry etc. I reckon the trailer ones are worth further investigation

Yeah. That looks sound af. Spendy but prob a good solution. Will now explore drum idea some more..