NickJ

Is that pieced together from a quad?

Do it! I really should work with them more often, always so rusty on the coding whenever I do. Bonus is that pretty much everything has been done before in some way online, that its an easy task to copy and paste then change a few lines to suit.

Made some progress getting the rpm signal to the car, brought an LM2917 IC and put it together, the datasheet and maths was a bit much for after work so I messed about with it until I figured out how it worked. I then rigged up the arduino to generate 5 seconds of 1000rpm followed 5 seconds of 6000rpm as a test signal with a multimeter on the output, its now outputting roughly 1V/1000rpm, just in time for the weekend to try it in the car.

Wait what, you guys have a waterjet out there?

Keeeeeeeeeeen, Niva needs a hoon

I had a similar fault in an engine, all the cranking washed the bore, dropping compression to the point it then masked the fact I had fixed it 10 moves ago That fault was an ignitor module, even though it sparked, it had no punch +1 for compression test

Because Anton failed my last submission i've tinkered with the code: Labels, scale and grid, well kinda Bench test only, cos its dark out. Speaking last night with a knowledgeable carb tuner, my initial analysis is off, word is idles sound fine, but mains are lean and the air correctors could be opened up to prevent flooding at high revs, I have a lead for some jets to try and failing that there may be a set of jet drills near by too. I also brought a LM2917 IC, this has a fancy trick of turning frequency to a linear voltage, ie give it a signal from the points and it will output 0-5V for the arduino, i've put together a small circuit on veroboard, but just need to bench test it along with an isolation circuit (optocouplers) so i don't risk getting the points running via my laptop!

Rad build mate! If you can cover the tops of the batteries, I've had farm machinery batteries slowly go flat form a build up of crap effectively shorting the terminals onto the frame, I can only imagine salty roads to be potentially worse.

Good life choices Mr Roman

I've also got dibs on an 1800 block, will need to do some research over what I need to build it up

Haha, cool! I've got a cap screw in there for now, but have been meaning to hit you to get it looking right again

Nah not pretty at all! but I only intend it to be a setup and trouble shooting tool, not for full time fitment, however there is nothing stopping me from sourcing a standard gauge to feed the 0-5V output to and hiding the box under the dash. It runs a Bosch 4.9 sensor, and by all means appears to be legit, they only sell the sensors cheap if brought with a kit, so w.ith postage its not much of a savings over the hundy they are on the shelf here for

you've been marking lab reports haven't you

Hells yeah, I thought I killed it, was just a connector coming out inside the box, seems very robust otherwise. Have ordered some nice waterproof connectors off ali to set it up fully moveable between cars

Have the 14.7 wideband kit running well, but the screen lag makes it hard to read while driving, the 0-5V output however made it really easy to feed the output to a much easier to interpret screen. just used 2m of trailer cable for the sensor, which was a good call as it does haul ~3A while running! for less than 100usd you get the kitset and sensor, pretty bloody good really, I then put it in a cheap plastic case and its a very useable setup

Much to talk about... First of all, #CleansheetVTNZ #Levelimposibleclocked Time to set my mind onto more interesting things, hooked up the wideband to the Niva and had a horrible surprise, all nice at idle and up to 50kmh, but then open up the secondaries and she's rich as, so rich no amount of tweaking and miniature jets could alter, I gave the single carb a full half day of messing about but in the end ditched it for the dellortos, even though these are rich, the results were far more consistent and changes to mixture followed changes I made. With the twins on it was time for some serious thinking, driving around with the wideband on the dash wasn't really the easiest thing to do so I sat down last night with a beer and bashed the keyboard to get python to read throttle position and mixture via arduino, all thats needed then is a tps on the carb, PAP wanted $40 but i'm too cheap for that kind of extravagance, headed down to jaycar and grabbed a $3 10k potentiometer and aluminium knob for $4, mix that with a bit of scrap ali sheet and boom, tps! (well not quite, still had to hack a slot for the shaft to engage in, man I wish I had a mill!) All that set up I dumped the laptop in the passengers seat and had a play Worked out far better than I imagined, managed to tune Idle much quicker than listening, by simply looking at the rev counter and O2 reading, awesome! Pre-drive calibrating of the tps found this wee fella: The 3 equal peaks are me pushing the throttle pedal, the larger peak is holding full throttle on the carbs, few free ponies if I sort the linkages better! With that in mind, I went for a drive and things got tricky... Blue line is O2, red tps, scale is kinda random, but ~500 = good for mixture, tps runs 180->1024 and ignore the green, thats there for when I get engine speed mixed in, but so far its floating along for fun. Oh and graph reads right to left. At cruise and idle mixture is about right, average acceleration (pulling away from lights etc) is lean as, while planting foot runs mega rich(after a brief lean out), my conclusion is the idle jets are a bit small, and needs a size or two up there, and the mains need to be dropped a similar amount with a little more on the pump jets to see about the lean as the pedal hits the floor. Fun times, but man I wish I could just go full EFI without having to cert the darn thing! Discussion about carb tuning tips please:

I had plans to get the Niva ready months ago, but work had different plans, I finally dropped the engine off to have all the vitals tickled, while its not going to be a 'performance' build, it will be a darn sight better than previous, i'm hoping to at least have compression back! With Otago rally on this weekend, I was hoping to use the drive there and back to run the engine in, sadly the weather has been absolutely terrible and in my crampt shed with not enough light, achievement has been low. Utilising the parts cleaner obtained off Bart, I've sparkled up the underside bits, ultimately, only the wof man will ever see it... Threw on a lick of speed enhancing red Multifunction 2105 workbench: Forgot how much I enjoy assembling engines, checking, cleaning measuring and torquing, no pics cos its dark, but the block is back together and awaiting a break in the clouds to lift it all into place I've also sealed up a 5 speed box I rebuilt ages ago, 4 just wasn't enough! Sitting out the rain I got onto the computer and drew up a head gasket, my sources have all dried up on standard thicknesses so i'll run a thick one until I get one waterjet cut from copper to give a hoon, hopefully it works......

Sweet, I might give this a go, my gasket supply has dried up and I can only get my hands on 1.8mm thick ones now, 1.2 would be much nicerer. Just so happens there is a waterjet cutter and a good stock of copper at work, i'll have to draw one up and see what bribes the workshop lads prefer.

Anyone DIY'd copper headgaskets? with waterjet cutting being quite cheap, i'm tempted to draw one up and give it a go.

That would be perfect, quick hop away, PM on the way

Dropped the Niva engine off to the rebuilders this week (finally!) and hope to fit it one evening next week, anyone in Chch with a crane I could borrow to get it done?

Made some changes to the annealer over the last few months, started with a solid state relay so I could run a 48V powersupply with the added benefit of not needing the FETs for switching, improved the cooling system and made minor tweaks to the coding. Running off a sheet of ply wasn't too nice so I planned to make a timber box to tidy the whole lot up, while looking for supplies, a red toolbox caught my eye for a much fairer price, after drilling a few holes and some offcuts of acrylic, there we go, almost pro looking! There are a few wires missing from this shot, and I still need to organise the dropout chute in the front for finished cases, oh and add speed holes so the cooling fan can actually draw air!

Almost a month ago the 14point7 wideband kit turned up, finally got off my arse and got it running, for the sensor lead I just brought 2m of 7 core trailer wire, pick a part wanted $30 for sections of loom! As I haven't got the Niva running yet, I swapped the wideband sensor into the girlfriends Caldina for a test run and all seems operational. Now with a weekend of terrible weather i'll get the speeduino together with what parts I can scrounge from my drawer of goodies.

Autodesk Remake, but you had to pay to be able to scale and do anything useful with the model I haven't done much more with it.

Fusion360 is free and very powerful, i've been using it for a number of personal projects and a work colleague who is right into 3d printing swears by it, mainly because you can switch between modelling and sculpting when repairing 3d scans.