igor

Suck it and see. For the price it'd be hard to go wrong. The stock single carb you have should be good for about 90mph depending on what diff ratio you are running. Mine used to sit on 70mph sweet as with the trailer and the only modification was a mega oversize rebore cos the bores had huge lips and the block was pretty rough after sitting outside for some time with the head off it. Still ran the stock single carb and cast manifold.

Cheers for that Corbie and Nominal. I found a similar picture in an old Reader's Digest home repairs book after I posted the question. Those two machines have sat outside for seven years so I'm not putting money on my ability to make them go.

Why ever not mof? I've done that with my EN Civic once and got away with it. I needed the battery for the tail lights on the Austin I was towing on a dolly trailer so I started the Civic then swapped the battery into the Austin, put a knackered battery into the Civic, and drove 50 miles with the Civic running off the alternator.

Pump pressure is sweet. After cleaning the machine is functioning much better. Only have to spin twice now. Not overloading it to buggery helps too. Also got F&P400 and 380 in the workshop now attempting to make a good one out of the two. Some fool cut the power cable off the 380. I know Red is Phase and Black is Neutral but the 380 has the old Blue and Brown wires. Which is which please? Can't just bullshit my way through it cos I don't want to fry myself. Also the switch gear is slightly different from one model to the next and the wiring diagrams are unreadable.

No harm in fixing up the other one for a spare though.

6.00 12 farm service lug is near enough to the same height as a normal 155r13. Plenty of tread depth but I'd be surprised if anyone'd give them a wof.

Whack some big as fuck tyres on them and use for a farm trailer. Might also suit a bucket or rat rod.

I've never understood the stretched tyre look either. Or the super lowered look with tyre profiles that look like a rubber band. Maybe I'm just old fashioned. Agree with you about the senslessness of this latest rule change though.

Thanks for all your suggestions. Had the Whirlpool apart today. Completely different arrangement to the old F&P 400. Pump is mounted on edge at the front. It is necessary to take the casing off to even see it. Pump is sweet, all drain hoses were clogged with dirt so cleaned those out. Some improvement but not much. Washes okay but still won't spin properly. Tempted to take it out and shoot it but I can't cos it's too big to fit out the door. The door we brought it in through now has a fitted workbench in front of it.

Could be a possibilty Dave. I once removed two very crispy mice from the back of an electric range.

High gang. Not really, or even at all, related to cars but couldn't work out where else to post this. Does anybody know anything about the mechanicals of washing machines? I have an American Whirlpool model 6ALSR7244MW0 less than ten years old that still washes well but won't spin the water out. I had a look on the tard for any suitable replacement and saw another similar Whirlpool machine (6ALSR7244MW3) with the same problem and they reckoned it was the spin clutch that was causing it. Can any of you advise whether this is likely to be the case and how big a prick it is to fix. Sister-in-law reckons her other half (engineer, the kind that makes things) can probably manufacture any mechanical components if necessary. Thanking you in advance. Igor.

If all else fails just rewire the whole car. There's fuck all of a loom in an old Mini so it's dead simple even for technophobes like me. The whole thing works off two fuses. Odds on you could even buy a new whole loom from England.

12" wheels on old minis came with low profile tyres making them near enough to the same height as the 10" wheels with normal height tyres.

Maybe change the diff if the gearbox is too low? A mate from school had a PB Velox with a Bedford truck box in that was super low geared. Wouldn't go over about 30 mph.

That thing is way cool. If I had any money I'd be keen to buy the whole car off you myself. Always loved that shape Cressida although as they came with the 18R they were horrendously underpowered and hogged the gas badly. What does that one do to the gallon? I got 18-20 mpg round town from an all original '79 RX30 manual sedan.

I found a Holley carb and manifold in the grass behind one of my sheds a couple of years ago. Off some old four banger. Think it's a Ford A or T as I've found a few other parts there too.

Nothing wrong with SUs if you like dinosaurus old technology. Geezer I got my Wolseley from reckoned they're a prick to tune if you have more than one though.

...but even a shit Ford motor is cooler than any Chev could ever be.

If it's a 2 ltr six then I guess it would be over carbed but if it was in the order of 3 ltr then six times whatever carb you would put four of on a 2 ltr four would seem to be about right would it not?

Published when?

Perhaps even have a yarn to some of the good old boys at the Whangarei branch of the Vintage Car Club. When I was a member there back in the 80's there were a few real hard out Model T and A fans among them. Some of them might be still alive / active in the club.

Rusti, a chick friend had a '36 Morris 8 back in the 80's. We had a lot of fun cruising in that and she was not averse to driving it hard on occasion. One day we shot a quite long one lane bridge at 60 mph and made a P6B Rover back off.

Shame about the requirement to fit the guard flares to get a wof. I think they spoil the look a little bit. Would have been nice to just pump the hydrolastic up all the way and run it rebel if you could have got away with it.

Niki, the question above was for you. As a BMC driver since the 80's I love those things.

^ Was that your Austin in the pics from Wagnats? To me those don't qualify as excessively low powered cars only capable of a top speed of 70 km/h on the open road. A '36 Morris 8 can achieve average speeds in that range.