Bangbug

You may not want the leather...... though I suppose it's clad everywhere so the back might do the trick. I'll get a picture and dimension this weekend.

Oh and I'd remove the caps before testing them. A proper test needs something (ESRM) else but a multimeter and visual should give you an indication. You can set it to ohm mode and see if the resistance climbs, at least that'll show you it's doing something Where are our electronic geeks at?

What's the vehicle/ignition? If it's a 0-12v signal you're welcome to give my oscilloscope a crack. I'm a wee way off needing it.

Oh and speaking of seats and springs and what not. I have a couch (leather) which used to be nice but has seen too many things to carry on with life. It's the right shape etc for a seat for an R(eally)OS ride, I'm binning it, you want me to take pics etc for springs should you be interested? Can pull them for you if you want, no dramas.

I have a new favourite Underdog build! (yes I'm calling you an underdog)

Okay. Next step. Check the input signal before fucking about any more with fixes. Which means an oscilloscope (in my world of AWESOME) or if you have another tacho hook it up (in your world of POOR) and see how that goes. Ok so I'm lying, my world of CHEAP DIGITAL OSCILLOSCOPE. Since your thread disappeared how does this compare to your original problem? I see the problem still persists, but is it in the same way? Did you do a check of your capacitors and resistors etc? (multimeter). Nice pictures and video BTW.

I'll end up dehydrated!

I just messed my pants twice. The front for the shaved red one. The back for green one.

Buy my fe 2.2, do the bearings and stick that in

You must have an excessively large basement if you need two rape vans. Link for your balaclava collection? Great find, look forward to the build!

Lots of fun roads a little further out, say Hunua to Kaiaua then back through Clevedon. Though some corners can be a bit of a surprise, same with the road surface. I've seen a few people on their lids! haha. Good luck on your restricted!!!!

Sounds like a case of perishing/hardening rubbers etc and/or order of connection. Good on you for giving it a crack. Share where you are and perhaps someone will swing by for a beer and help you out I will if you're nearby me, or if you want to visit hunua. Long story short, all pipes and hoses need to go to their correct spots and be done up correctly.

It has amazing colour changing paint. Man, it looks wunderbar with dem new kicks!

How much play do studs and nuts allow?

Hurrah! First time for everything. For our purposes...... vr 2 wire, hall 3 wires They give different signals, A/M Ecu's handle either. Software compensation on how you have your trigger and some suggested ways of setting up for DTC. Someone should will have a bunch more stuff to say on them, I've been "liking" stuff on Cole Customs FB page for ages so DT will fill in any details I'd imagine

$600? Shop around and probably find new wheel AND trigger for $200.

I have a REALLY OLD video about tig welding that I could dropbox you if you'd like. oh and by REALLY OLD I mean good because it's before Kardashians who seem to be on everything now.

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Yes. Now to be of use to the thread dt speaks of sensor vs tooth size, if they are the same size the time taken to go from + to - (switching voltage output from sensor) is a very short time. If it is larger the output may linger on zero until the following edge comes into range of the sensor. So get a matching pair for your trigger wheel, pretty simple no need to fret

Yes, runs fine, came as a pair it'd be an expensive hall!

Still waiting on editing ability Head over to mjrstar's place, look at wiring but your REAL mission will be to look at his falcon fan buttons and let me know if they look good or not. I think he's too nice to tell me if they're up to scratch or not I think they looked rad individually but.... Speaking of thread jacks, did the other little bit turn up mjrstar? and since you have a 4g63t are you running it off the cas? Do you have a trigger wheel on anything he can look at? He is mine, I think I machined in a lip for a spacer then heated/shrank the trigger wheel over the protrusion out the face of the pulley. It was a trigger wheel I was given, apparently from a ford of some description. You can buy cut ones or have a custom one cut for you, if someone on here had a laser cutter they'd be EVERYONE's friend and have the best stocked fridge ever I thought I could perhaps mount it on the back to begin with..... but not enough room and too close to my dodgy belts

I was going to point you to my b2200 thread but I see the links are broken Since the last time I was in Cambridge was to do signage for the velodrome! Though I have a cousin I should visit who lives there..... I think...... I'm in Hunua if that helps, you don't even have to go near the motorway! But half the photos are gone, that'll teach me for linking from FB photos! (they move to archives I guess as time goes on) So I'll update the links for you to look at in the meanwhile, hopefully that'll help.

We all have various opinions on which ECU is "best". I've said before a Link Atom is great value for anything 4 cylinder turbo or N/A. Look at $1100 - 1300 incl loom, you'll need a wideband + controller and a few relays & wire. I've got one, it was pretty easy and you can tune it yourself on the road fairly well, when I get a turbo I'll be putting it on a dyno though. (esp for spark). And you're buying NZ technology which is good, support NZ businesses! Or you can go MegaSquirt if budget is an issue, but you'll only save about $400-500 for your application if you buy it mostly assembled. I'd do the latest MS if I had 6 cylinders or more and still had the same amount of capital available as you can save $$$. Where in the NZ are you? Want to come and have a look at my dirty old ute? You can see where everything goes and I can run you through what I did which will be what you'll do go trigger wheel.

How much room do you have? Could you "massage" the firewall? For all the effort for a new ecu etc, it'd be much less hassle to fuck with the firewall Engine compartment and floor modifications 2.2(13) Any part of a firewall, floor, gearbox tunnel, or other structural section of a low volume vehicle that has been cut or removed to provide room for engine conversion clearance, must be adequately re-strengthened. Perhaps draw up what you'd need to do to the firewall (remember to check where your heater is!) and post it up in "Questions regarding Certs" and see how it goes down From most conversations I've had people have treated the firewall as some holy site not to be fucked with....but people are stupid..... it's a bit of steel which stops fumes and flames, a recess in it will do the same Or maybe I'm stupid. Good possibility.

I vote for this for an easy mod. 2-3% from idle transition is nothing unless you're transitioning into this area from idle and need ignition control there.... but what do you expect to do with the ignition in this area?