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Flash

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Posts posted by Flash

  1. Looking closely at the loose wire its green with a red ring running around the wire every so often.

    What has got me beat is that I definitely cut the other end of that green wire off the fuse marked "wiper" in the fuse box, but then the wire just runs to a dead end near the wiper switch. The green wire is a direct lead with no other junctions in it, so there is currently no way to get power into the wiper circuitry.

  2. Thanks heaps for the diagrams @tortron.

    So, I've managed to separate the wiper related components and wiring from the main wiring loom out of my '85 Starwagon donor van.

    Starwagonwiperharness.jpg.7efe7b06ed0307434128d2e2c893c3a1.jpg

    The wiring is all pretty much self-contained except for three black earthing wires and one green power feed wire that came off the wiper fuse in the fuse box.

    The green power wire runs up towards the wiper switch, but then just ends almost as if it has been cut. To my way of thinking it should be feeding power into the switch, but I can't see any signs on any of the soldered terminals at the back of the switch as to where it should go.

    Starwagonwiperswitch.thumb.jpg.5a28b6a2d25dc26bde0dd8f5da68f4fd.jpg

     

     

  3. 1 hour ago, sr2 said:

    If you're using a toggle switch you'll need a single pole double throw. I'd use a double pole/double throw ( https://www.jaycar.com.au/dpdt-6a-240vac-heavy-duty-centre-off-standard-toggle-switch/p/ST0576 ) so you can double up the contacts and not need to run a relay, i.e. keep it simple.

    If you can confirm the terminals were correct in my previous post I'll draw you up a circuit diagram and a simple wiring schematic.

    @sr2 that switch looks like a match for the one that I bought from Jaycar a while back for this purpose, but I'm no expert. Underside of switch looks like so:

    20231224_112959.jpg.d2c779e6282960b60f3e90b23f387bad.jpg

    You are also correct in that if I connect an earth to wire C, wire B is my low speed and wire D is high speed.

    20231224_112946.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. Hold the phone fellas !

    So the other day when @igor asked me if I had the original harness and switchgear from the donor van I quickly said no.

    But looking at @Raizer's post showing an intermittent switch got me thinking some more and I suddenly realised that I'm using the wiper motor out of my older SD series donor van instead of the one out of my newer SJ series van which I left the wiring loom in.

    So, yes, I do still have the mostly intact SD series wiring loom. I've pulled it out of the dusty corner of my shed and behold it does have a controlling box similar to the image that @Raizer posted.

    20231224_111716.jpg.7f9205eab88f7cb42587ee83996cb128.jpg

    I can't remember if I sold the column-based wiper switch from this van or whether it's still lying amongst my parts, but maybe I should see if I can figure out how this controller is wired up  before we go any further.

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 1
  5. Okay all, I've done some experimentation on this and @sr2 is correct in that I can reverse the polarity on the wires and the two speeds still work with the only difference obviously being that the motor turns in the opposite direction.

    I then opened up the "gearbox portion" of the mechanism and I've been able to ascertain that the park switch is of the normally open variety.

    Wiperpark.jpg.b51eb7308e6f39525f9446822e993cf9.jpg

    It uses these two "fingers" to close a circuit when the rotation reaches the outer contact:

    Wiperpark2.thumb.jpg.37ccde27080b49495a589845a1c697fa.jpg

    So it looks like @sr2 is on the money in terms of me having to make up a "box full of electronic trickery" to get the park function to work, especially considering that I want to control the main functions through a simple double pole on-off-on toggle switch.

    Simon, it you are able to put together a solution for me I'd be eternally grateful as my OCD just can't cope with the wiper blades stopping any old where.

    • Like 2
  6. 46 minutes ago, Hyperblade said:

    So since it's of the same era. I've wired up a 84 Toyota starlet motor from scratch before, which was a pain.

    Here's a starlet wiring diagram.
    PXL_20210413_080042000.thumb.jpg.c69c95ef02cb075f91131c58d388e13c.jpg\

     

    In my case I needed a 4 pole switch (not cheap e.g. $80+) to allow it to park correctly, getting off/low/high is the easy part.

    PXL_20210423_054432485.thumb.jpg.ec77b9e2eb1015cc182f710d4762d68e.jpg

    It is ground based.

    The wiper motor needed 12v and 3 wires from switch.

     

    Pin Terminal Cable Destination Description
    1   12v 12v Light Blue
    2     park Light Blue/White
    3     low Light Blue/Red
    4     high Light Blue/Black

    Then the switch needed 12v as well then 3 wires to the wiper motor and you have to jump 2 of the pins (dotted)

    Pin 2: Park

    Pin 3/4 connected via jumper (dotted)

    Pin 5: Low

    Pin 10: (not sure can't read what I wrote, I think it livens up the other circuits within the switch

    Pin 11: 12v source

    Pin 12: High

     

     

    PXL_20210423_054439252.thumb.jpg.154efce3b96bb81069e7f4441aa12d57.jpg

    Thanks heaps for this info @Hyperblade I've got some homework to perform tomorrow.

    • Like 1
  7. 1 hour ago, sr2 said:

    Most 4 wire wiper motors I've come across have the earth through the body, and terminals for a continual 12V supply, high and low speeds and an on/off. Not too hard to work out which terminal is which with a 12V supply.

    @sr2 thanks for the reply Simon. Looks like Mitsubishi do something different as earthing the body and then cycling +12 volts through the other wires yields no results on three of the wires and sparks on the 4th wire.

  8. I promised to share my receiver/drier mounting bracket efforts with you all, so here goes.

    The plan is to locate the drier in the RHS front fender well tucked up above the chassis leg. I decided to make use of the existing bolt holes that mount the coil in the engine bay because if I do go to an electronic distributor sometime in the future the coil will become redundant leaving me with empty holes which will mess with my OCD.

    20231213_103140.jpg.6bd0b2da473d97748c8126baf8805186.jpg

    So the first step was to carve a little flat plate out of a steel offcut, and I then poked a few holes in said plate.

    Test mounted like so:

    20231213_103359.jpg.ddcda83907aed2be5462ccbbeb51019c.jpg

    The eagle eyed amongst you will likely spot the hydraulic clutch hard line that sits slightly proud of the side even although it has its own factory formed channel to live in, hence the need for the mounting / spacer plate.

    Next step was to fizz a bit of square tube to my newly carved mounting plate and after a spritz of satin black I ended up with this puppy:

    20231213_131815.jpg.a17dd9401dcb5b8ffbc755bbf6349b28.jpg

    I've left it to dry overnight, and I'll assemble it all in the morning.

     

     

     

    • Like 9
  9. I'm back on the a/c install.

    Today's task was to build a mounting bracket for my receiver/drier bottle, which is all done now, and I'll show you it in all its glory once the paint has dried, but in between coats I thought I'd tackle the a/c compressor inlet and outlet swaps.

    So, when I grabbed the compressor from my local wreckers I nabbed the inlet and outlet hoses at the same time.

    20231104_093009.thumb.jpg.c03e8295d587bb80125e75b41ad09747.jpg

     

    There are two issues with these hoses.

    First up the hard portion of the lines bend towards the side and wont clear the chassis leg on my van. Secondly both lines face forwards which makes sense for a standard a/c install where the condenser sits forward of the engine but in my case where my condenser is mounted underneath and towards the back of the van, I need the appropriate hose to face rearwards.

    I was able to solve both issues by sourcing a set of pad to o'ring adapters specifically for the Denso compressor.

    20231212_102248.jpg.95e8eccd6c9c27acef6c16b729943e86.jpg

    20231212_102326.jpg.4769c8bc5e5d6aa9b91601dc5dc45457.jpg

    After giving the o'rings a bit of lube I was able seat them in their new home:

    20231212_102910.jpg.343d893fcf0824af1197a0af5f01eb59.jpg

    And that's the compressor all done until I start fabricating my hoses.

     

     

     

    • Like 7
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