locost_bryan

My bad for not asking about the stock tyre size. Most '70s English and Jap cars were a couple of sizes smaller, 155x13, so 175/70 or 205/60 are ideal. You'll need 205/70 or 235/60, both hard to find or spendy

185s look silly imo, will 205s fit under the guards? Tyre calculator says 155x13 = 175/70×13 = 205/60×13, so slightly undersized compared to 185/70×13.

Montego or 800 wheel?

Some info here https://www.safairmontgt.com.au/

Only if Kevin lets you in.

Hope the plenum has "Hillmonda Flat Sex" engraved on it.

Correct. Helped to get the Coupe over the line by spreading some of the costs around. Also made it easier to stash stuff behind the seat in the ute.

One of my favourite Fords. My dad had a 73 XA wagon from new, a 200 3-on-the-tree in Cosmic blue metallic, running ROH Drag mags. The envy of my mates when I was at primary school. I had a 76 XB ute, 250 3-on-the-tree with LSD and canopy, great tow car and useful camper. I see your dad's doors have the common dent from the stays not being up to the job, and the wind blowing them too far open.

Barn find Rover P6B engine and selection of Rovers in Whangarei https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/austin-rover/listing/3656942786?bof=SLwkVWPv

Isn't tweed more of a Landrover thing?

Good, that's the fighting British bulldog spirit. Good excuse to get a Disco V8 and see if the ZF auto will fit in the hole.

Drop in a factory 2 litre? There's one being parted on FB

Wonder how easy it would be fit a ZF 4HP22 from a V8 Disco using a BMW rwd tailshaft housing (seen it done in a build thread on FMM).

Here's a 262 engine, gearbox and stripped saloon bodyshell on Trademe, guys asking $1200 https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/austin-rover/listing/3562313354

Disco V8 (the one with the short water pump) and ZF 4HP auto (with BMW tailhousing) fit with no body mods. Rover LT77 5-speed is too big for the trans tunnel, but Ford Type 9 will fit with a little modding for the shifter.

If you could find a cheap Coupe and a rotten Six, then you'd need to swap over the firewall and larger trans tunnel, the front suspension and steering rack, the engine and it's unique crossmember, the gearbox and it's unique crossmember, the one-piece driveshaft, the stronger rear axle and the second tramp rod, and decide how to fit the rear dampers (they were relocated on the Six). But I have see it done on a ute.

Wheels magazine said the Marina 6 handled like a drunken ballerina. Read the article here. Leyland commissioned racecar manufacturer Bowin to do a suspension analysis. There test driver was John Leffler, a pretty quick F5000 peddler. The report was dated September 1974, so too late for the recommended changes to make it into production. Read the report here. These are the official powertrain weights from the factory workshop manual :-E4 - engine 151kg + 4-speed gearbox 21kg = 172kgE6 - engine 175kg + 3-speed gearbox 41kg = 216kgFor comparison :-B-series 1800 - engine 195kg + 4-speed gearbox 21kg = 216kg

AA did a test with a Maxima years ago. Got better economy on higher octane, but not enough to offset the extra cost.

I've got a 3 cylinder boosted Kia Rio. Does about 5.5 l/100k on a trip to Hamilton, where our 1.3 Jazz did 5.8.

Plenty of VW swaps and adaptors, should give you lots more choices than using the Hillman box. I'd still opt for something as light as the Imp engine.

Surprised no-one has suggested a rotary. What's wrong with the old nail? Just wanting more power and reliability? A small Suzi sounds the go, or go electric with a Leaf power train?

What's your budget? A colleague with a Leaf with the bigger battery said he could do Orewa to Hamilton (160km) if the motorway traffic was freeflowing.

Flat road, mostly at 100kmh, should be well within the range of a Leaf.

Pretty sure they were scrutineered at a Mobil garage, refilled with fresh Mobil oil, fuel tank drained and filled from the garage pumps via a certified measuring device. The only dodgy liquids were those that the crews imbibed at the pub each night.