ajg193

One spit roast per night?

Frack.... How the hell is it the 19th already. D: Someone should have dropped me a text.

I ran into a wild Governor Sam in his natural habitat last night. We should have a meet at a random pub in the middle of nowhere, such as Leeston or something.

Here's a workshop manual. You'll need a dropbox account to download it though: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rp80qpua13pn9hj/4k.pdf?dl=0&fb=1

New head is 4K-U. You will need dished pistons if you want to use it otherwise your compression ratio will be way way way too high. Here's my standard 4K head for reference:

I will defend it with my life.

Just got back from Auckland after two weeks working. Car started fine, runs mint. Took it for a quick blat out to the Port Hills No snow unfortunately

Not very helpful, but my old fx-gt lost its spring in the fuel flap so wouldn't open by itself. I just put my car key into the gap and pulled the lever and that worked fine.

You're probably already aware of this, but you should check the head bolt torques each time you do the valve clearances on these otherwise gaskets can go bad.

What are the rules around the centre hole on a wheel? I just noticed that the centre hole on the wheels on my dad's ute is about 20 mm bigger diameter than the spigot and there is no way that the wheel is being accurately located with respect to the central axis. I think this is unsafe and should fail it on a WoF (even though it hasn't for the last 5 years or so). Here's a potato pic: Should I draw some sort of alignment spacermajig up in solidworks and get them made for it?

I'm just gonna jump in with some generic Starlet advice. Pull the motor, lower the car and drop a rotor in. /Lingpost

Pretty sure bumpers should be black.

Sunday 21st June - 1PM The Valley Inn 2 Flavell Street Heathcote Valley

Meet this weekend. Y'all better be there.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48536-2zz-ge-good-motors-or-a-flop/ ? Maybe the guy ripped you off?

Took the old girl out to the hills this evening for a quick photo shoot with NickJ and his Lada. Gave the car a service the other day, new oil,new filter, valve clearances set, manifold bolts tightened, new gearbox oil (Castrol VMX 80W) - this stuff is like the finger of god! Car runs beautifully at the moment, I wonder how long that will last Also finally have some wall art

Just keep it above idle speed, battery will go flat if it is idling with lights on. Should make a mini oldschool cruise of following felixx around.

Old oil was about 22,000 km/1.5 years

The amount of brass in the old oil was quite disconcerting though...

OH MY GOD SO SMOOTH GEAR CHANGE WHEN COLD NOW

Was reading the datasheet for the oil I had in it just before... States not to use in anything that doesn't specifically specify it.

So I was talking to NickJ, he reckoned to use GL-4 spec oil. (As have some of you.) Also talked to the guy at Toyota this morning, he reckons 30 years ago when these were new they came out of the factory notchy when cold. He suggested to use either ATF or 10W-30 oil. Ended up getting some GL-4 Castrol VMX 80W oil (pretty much exactly what the haynes manual recommends). It even says on the bottle that it makes low temperature shifting easier. I've put it in and I will see how it goes over the next few weeks.

So, my car is running Thuban 80W-90 oil in the gearbox at the moment and the synchros are quite crunchy/difficult to get into when the gearbox temperature is less than about 15 degrees celcius (shifts mint when the gearbox warms up). Haynes manual reckons 80W oil is what the gearbox needs. Should I swap to 80W, or is this just a case of an old gearbox doing what old gearboxes do? (Last change was 1.5 years ago).

Don't forget 90% of carburetor problems are your ignition.

I can't really see a problem with it as the flange is hot forged and hasn't been hardened.