a.craw4d

Bear with me while I try dumping some photos. New screws as well since most of the old ones were fucked. Float bowls done. Chucked together the other side. I installed the one on the right first then found the cover piece cleans up nice with a good wire brush. And all done. At this point I was going to have a go at adjusting all the butterflies as some were obviously out of sync. In a brain wave I thought it best to tip some gas down the fuel line and check for leaks, good idea as there's a leak around the tee piece where the fuel line goes in. Bugger. Anyway I've pulled the end carb off to get the tee piece out, the o-rings look ok but I'll get some new one's when I get a chance.

Ok so I've finally spent a little time on this lately. New parts turned up. Will clean up this area before I refit the carbs. Started cleaning and reassembling the carbs with new float bowl seals.

Yep. You'll see droplets of oil appear on the surface, simply wipe them off.

Re tig welding dirty castings. Have a play with the balance setting. One way is max cleaning, the other way is max penetration. Lean towards the cleaning side and you'll find oil soaked castings and painted surfaces easy as to weld. A good preheat will draw a lot of crap out first too.

Nice work there @Kimjon. Just out of curiosity, without sleeves on the tires can you wheel stand these?

This true for wheels? Good if it is because I'd like to be able to run both factory wheels and something with better offset and width.

Will try that if it happens again.

Don't think so. I'll pull the plugs out later but I don't really know what I'll be looking at/ for.

The Altezza only does it when I fuck up starting it so lose of fuel pressure could be the cause there. Doesn't explain what happened to the demio though.

Do or can efi engines flood? Our altezza sometimes can be a bitch to start if you get it wrong the first time. If you accidentally release the key just before it starts ( and I mean split second before it bursts into life), it then takes a lot of cranking and spluttering before it'll start again. Before I got a decent battery it would run out of start juice first. I know this sounds a bit retarded but when you're so used to a car you sometimes release the key when you know it would've normally started, being distracted by kids and running on auto pilot doesn't help. Anyway this morning it happened to the misses in her demio, she took the other car and I tried it about half an hour later. It took a lot of cranking but eventually came back to life. Has since restarted fine each time. Anyone had this happen to them before? Any suggestions? Would cleaning or replacing plugs help? Cheers people.

I'm getting a bit side tracked here while I wait for parts to arrive. I like the look of brushed alloy and have some die grinder flap wheels laying around but no die grinder, an old battery drill with a good chuck but pooed battery and a 900w blender base that goes good. Let's see how this goes ah. Edit. And nope. Turns out a drill chuck isn't designed for 1000000rpm and wobbles about like anything. Has potential though.

No harm in trying. Vid please.

And because updates with no pictures are poos. One caliper and bracket cleaned up. Will actually get some brakeklean and degreaser to finish these off. Was using petrol, toothbrush, wire brush and elbow grease to get this far. And the diy buffer/ polisher v2. First one I used a jam jar lid and a small bolt but it gave up and fall apart.

Been a bit slack lately. Been scrubbing away at the brake calipers in my spare time trying to make them look good again. Turns out the fronts have been up graded to mc19's with bigger pistons at some stage. I'm waiting on a couple of aliexpress purchases to turn up so I can put the carbs back on. Will give it an oil and filter change then fingers crossed, get it going again. My parents are picking up all my brake seals while in aus so will get them back together in a few weeks when they return. Made a little buffer attachment for the drill with scotchbrite glued to it and attacked a bit of the frame with it. Well now I'm thinking of pulling the whole bike apart to do everything with it . It worked quite well, unfortunately you don't see most of the shiny bits once the fairing is on. Must resist that urge until I've got it going at least.

Finally had a crack at welding up the rust holes. This one got away on me a bit. Really need some lighter shades in my welding helmet for this kind of stuff but got there in the end. Took a bit of head scratching to work out how to get all the little bits of rust and crap out of the tank. There's a big indent and lip around the fill point so I couldn't just tip it out. So I rummaged through the rag bag and found a shirt sleeve, carefully sewed up one end with a stapler, chucked a magnet in the sleeve and dropped it in the tank (making sure to hold the other end of the sleeve). Now just shake shake shake, all the bits stick to the magnet then pull it out. Did this a few times and now the tank doesn't rattle anymore. The tank had quite a bit of rust dust in it by this stage so I stuffed an oily rag in there and gave it another good shake, seems to have done the job.

Had a poke around the petrol tank yesterday, its got a few rusty spots on the inside from sitting for ages and its been repaired in the past in about 3 or 4 times in different places. Found a couple more holes. Will try tig them up tonight. On another note, the bike came with these new brake pads. Is it normal to have to do 200 miles to bed in brake pads? Or are these more of a race pad? I think it'll take me a long time to do anywhere near that amount of ks. Brakes on cars I've always just banged them in and gone hard.

Yep I've found wemoto Australia to be really good. My parents are heading over there later this month to visit my sister so I might get a few things delivered there for them to bring back.

Made my own piston removal tool. A bolt, few nuts and small nails to suit. Turn until it jams up and turns the piston. Easy as. Pistons all cleaned up nicely with bit of scotchbrite. The rear piston has a bit of pitting but mainly above where the seal sits so hopefully it'll be ok. Before and after scotchbrite. Just waiting to hear back from the local Honda people if they can get new caliper seal kits now.

Not much progress. Removed all the brake calipers. The rear pad shim doesn't seem to belong here. Got the rear piston by pumping it out while still attached. Had a little bit of crap in it. Managed to pump the fronts most of the way out before I ran out of fluid. Hopefully I can clean up the pistons ok and just replace the seals. Will have more time tomorrow to try get these all apart and cleaned up. Anyone got a piston removal tool I can borrow?

This statement seems to be somewhat of an oldschool philosophy. I learnt to ride on a CT90 so whether I like it or not I'll always stop and have a look at one. Love the bike but slow down on the "6 hours later from pile of parts to complete rideable bike." you're making us all look bad.

I've found the carb float bowl seals on ali as well so I'll chuck those in with my order. While the petrol tank was off I thought I'd empty and clean it. Gave it a good shake first and I could hear bits rattling inside it. About a liter of brown petrol came out and left this in the bottom of my oil change tray. I was actually expecting more water than that. I should mention that clean petrol ran from the fuel line before I test started the bike. Giving it a good shake just mixed up 30 years of crud from the bottom of the tank. I'm getting a mate to steam clean the inside for me. Then I'll just chuck petrol back in it. Will keep an eye out later for a tidy tank. When fluffing around with this yesterday the back brakes somehow started jamming up, and I didn't even touch them. So I guess next up is rebuilding the front and rear calipers. Wish me luck.

Can anyone recommend a good website for spare parts? I've found throttle cables and the carb to head rubber joiners on aliexpress but not much else. I'm not keen on aliexpress brake pads, anything safety related I'll by local.

The floats look clean and move freely. I'm not going to strip this side any further. Flip it over and open up the other side. There were a couple of missing screws on this side which ment 1 carb was just kind of floating there. Also read a tip to give each screw a good tap with a hammer before trying to undo them, seemed to work a treat, all but the really rounded head ones undid. The I got a bit more serious. Yes I use the makita tool set when working on carbs. Put a cut in the fucked screws and undid them. Diaphrams all look good. The springs are rediculously long but if that's what's ment to be there then I'm not going to argue. I won't go any further from here. Just a good clean, new seals and screws.

Got the carbs off. You can see that little hose I mentioned. The rubber connector pieces onto the head don't look too flash either so I'll replace those. Started pulling carbs apart and found why they were leaking. That's the float bowl seal, appears to have cracked and shrunk. The others all had cracks and gaps in them. I'll replace all the screws as well as most were well used and abused. Had to cut some to use a flat head screwdriver on them. I'm slowly making a list of bits I need.

I'll keep plugging away at getting the carbs off, I undid the 2 screws by each intake trumpet and removed the top plate piece. Now the 4 carbs all move a bit on their own but they're all joined by little bits of loose tube, I'm worried bits will fall out and I'll have no idea where they came from so I might chuck the top plate back on. Will google for a CBR type forum for some tips and tricks. On the fairings side of this I'm going to try strip the matty b off so I can see the original paint lines and get new vinyl cut. I think most of the original markings are underneath. Just none of the writing appears to be there and so far I haven't found anywhere that can supply an original decal set. I won't bother trying to smarten up these fairings, some zip ties will keep them secure until I find a good set. The left front was really rough and bad fitting, once removed it turned out to be a bad fiberglass copy. Probably best to learn to ride with these ones anyway.