a.craw4d

Any pictures @Vintage Grumble? Re removing governor, part of it's internal. Did you pull all that out or just disconnect the external linkages and hook the throttle cable directly onto the butterfly?

There's a sealed cart track and club in Mosgiel but that's probably no way related to what I'm doing. Might be a grass cart club though. Will look into.

Yeah my plan at this stage is centrifugal clutch on motor, belt or chain drive to right angle gearbox, then chain drive to rear axil. A big gearbox in the rear would mean a higher seating position plus I imagine trying to change gear while feeding it the jandle could get tricky.

Motivational pics. Need to find a right angle gearbox and a suitable clutch.

The old ‘ran when parked’ deal. Had been sitting for 12 months. Got it home and chucked in some old 2 stroke mix I had laying around and jump started it. Once the starter decided to move it burst into life. The throttle cable is broken so drove it around the house with the bonnet off while sticking my fingers into the throttle mechanism. Good times. I plan to keep the 12hp Briggs unit and work from there. Maybe even keep but modify the governor as a rev limiter that still gives wide open throttle on acceleration. This will be a slow project and I’ll probably use this thread as a picture dump for useful info and ideas for when I start stripping and modifying the spare frame. If anyone has built similar or wants too please feel free to jump in with your 10c worth.

Because mowing lawns is overrated. Picked up this husqvarna LT112 plus a parts mower last weekend. Plan is to build it to NZ lawn mower racing specs (yes that’s a thing) even though there’s no club in the South Island, and just send it around the neighbourhood on the weekends and snow days.

Wife and kids went to the chilly peppers so I popped into work and made some things. A tool trolley for site work and a towball mounted vice.

PM’d you. A mate of mine works at boulzaids? (Sorry, can’t spell) but does perk jobs from home. He usually quite busy but does amazing work.

Yeah the way I explained is quite pricey. You're basically building custom 3 piece wheels, buying the inner and outer barrels separately at the width you want. The last ones I seen were 15 inch and cost around $600 per wheel. That didn't include the bolts to fix together (also pricey) and was using existing 3 piece wheel centers. The wheel pics I posted would at a guess cost around 1k a piece to make. The steel barrel option, last I looked you could only buy up to a 15 inch plain barrel. https://www.cardwells.co.nz/product/steel-wheel-barrel-raw/

Or someone on here a few years back used a plain steel barrel with a mounting ring welded in. Then bolted the alloy center in.

Any pics of the wheels you plan to widen? Can machine the outer off so you're left with just the centers, then bolt to a set of inner and outer barrels.

I can weld that no problems. Done heaps of shitty oil filled cast alloy stuff and it's fairly easy too. Probably be couple hours max in it. Good surface clean. Grind a big vee weld prep, go nuts here. You need a bit of room to get the tig torch to the bottom of the vee. Leave only 1-2 mm wall thickness at the bottom of the vee with the original break so it lines up perfectly. File the ground surfaces so it's clean, a grinder tends to rub and fold alloy over itself trapping crap in there. Good preheat to draw the shit out and final clean. With the tig tack it together. Here's where you need to take your time. Set the tig to a bit more cleaning than penetration. Strike the arc and puddle the torch around a big area. (Don't add filler yet. Castings are full of air bubbles and you don't want to try add filler wire on top of a bubble). Keep moving the torch around until the bubbles come to the top and the surface becomes smooth and shiny. Now you can add filler. Once all tacked in place, clean up any more oil that's come out. Then use the above technique to clean and weld the rest of the join. If crap keeps getting drawn through when trying to get a clean smooth surface then dial in a bit more cleaning on the balance control. Don't be tempted to chuck filler in there to cover it up, it goes pear shaped.

The above bike just got tuned on the dyno on Friday. Stock pipe, 116hp. My pipe, 153hp. The power curve was constant up to about 245kph. Was not expecting that much increase.

Exhaust system finished.

The above exhaust when viewed from the drivers seat. That closest pipe was going to be a bit of a leg burner so have shortened it a little. And the super trap style muffler going on the end of it. 150mm rule for scale.

Built a set of extractors for a triumph rocket 3. From this. To this.

They just go in a big 3 jaw chuck. The older wheels are a lot more rigid than all the newer crap. Never seen a cracked hotwire. Edit. Might take up to 0.3mm off the face. Sometimes 1mm off the outer lip where the worst curbing is.

The cast surface isn't usually too bad, a quick sand will easily level it out. Painted rims come into work quite often that look and feel really bad but sometimes it's just the paint that's chipped with little to no damage to the alloy underneath. Got any pics of the wheels in question? I like a machined finish but that's because I'm too lazy to polish. That and I don't really know how to polish alloy.

The paint on some alloys is fairly thick. Is soda blasting first an option?

Think he's keen on a mk4 supra next. His skyline lust starts at the r32 so haven't fine tuned that into him yet but he's on a good track. I think the decals really finish off the r34, was kinda plain before they started going on. He's just got the doors to go now then chuck the wheels on.

Photos too big for 1 post.

Mr 10 has gotten brave enough to try putting decals on. He only ripped 1 of the early ones but it worked out fine.

Mr 10 progress so far. His paintings getting neater as he goes and everything’s coming together as it should.

Think I paid close to $10 a pop for the last paints I bought a few years back so stoked with The Hobby Clearance Company prices.

@WhangareiKE70 more dets on your folder please? Looks simple but I can't figure out how you clamp material in it. Is there something missing? I want to build a small set of rollers to roll 3mm flat bar, only need to be 300mm long but haven't been able to settle on a simple and effective design yet.