h4nd

I've been chipping away at that corroded boat anchor motor. Bits of it were OK (starter fine, alt could be ok) but the carbs had inhaled water for years, so lots of the motor is junk. I was quite interested in getting the distributor assy off it (have disassembled most of it) but I think the cog / gear wheel at the bottom of the shaft may be corroded solid. I haven't been able to split the engine cases to see in there, even with all the bolts out. I may just give up on it soon. I had hoped to have a spare to match the spare engine I have.

Looks perfect, I could use about 2 tpblsp for my ND abrasive plug cleaner gadget.

I have ~20 years digital photos across cameras, videocams, windows, linux, iPhone, iMac, Android, google-photos etc (includes some cars, oddly enough). Collating it but keeping albums and other meta-data has been a ball-ache I've been putting off. PickBackMan (paid) looks like the bill. Will update if anyone interested.

Pics

Kei car engine stand:

Calc from pressure and duty cycle? I'd be curious to see that measured on actual, so as to get an idea of how injector calibrations line up (open / shut times). I recall Roman did some work on that?

What colour is the plug?

ArduPilot https://ardupilot.org/dev/index.html I has one (APM ArduCopter 2.8). Also avail for loan (if you get this trash building and wanna try it).

Sounds perfect. Add rubber chicken to exhaust for full effect. Get offsider to drive it, and stethescope it to work out where in the system?

Are the Soarer auto boxes up to that kind of Torque? There's controller kits to make them into Semi-Auto, with control over clutch engagement rates, if that removes enough dullness? Apparently they're strong in the original application, get replaced with manuals, so they're plenty available and cheap ?(disclaimer, info may now be a decade out of date)

@ThePog given how well the bus copes, and if you're running the truck motor everyday, your fridge in the truck would probably be OK on the existing batteries. Just watch it close the first couple of times, and you wanna turn it off if you're not using the vehicle for a few days.

Ah, there you are, I floofed the demand calc. 20% * 3.8A * 24h, etc @Mof Lead acid is cheaper per nameplate A/h, but @UTERUS is right for the long term: LiPo can be discharged more (more usable capacity per Ah) and last longer (more cycles), And they charge a bit faster (hours), resulting in a better match to solar charged.

How many Ah in the battery in the truck? And how many load amps for the compressor fridge (same 1.6A?). Bus sounds good, and only discharging to 88% will help keep your batteries healthy. In practice, you're getting away with it in the bus, Im'm just showing a worst case, full use, off grid situation. If you can manage the power drain ... wait a minute -- click! Whats the duty cycle on the fridge when it's sitting there closed? 25% running time, maybe? AGM are a flavour of lead-acid, it's just Wet lead acid are optimised for high cranking amps rather than deep cycle. but 100Ah is 100Ah. You may find you'll get away with it fine with a set up like your bus, just want to watch it close for the first while.

Sorry, had a brain fart, just remembered this. 1. Yep, good stuff, lead-acid goes bad when left discharged. 2/ yep, later in the arvo, (more below): Yeah, 36V panel (which is probably open circuit only, it falls when you load it up - the regulator sorts that out), and some sort of regulator to drop it to 28.8V (charging Voltage) It all just comes down to Amp hours, really, if the fridge does what it says on the tin, your pair of 12V 100Ah (e.g, you didn't say) batteries will run the thermo-elec for 100Ah / 4A = 25 hours. Then of course, your battery is dead and you can't drive home. If you want to charge that all in say 6 hours of (full) sunlight, you'll need a 16A charger so 28.8V x 16A is 460W input + losses. Lot's of people set them up this way, BUT, doing that will fuck your batteries in short order: If you fully discharge lead-acid, the lifetime (cycles) plummets. at 100% discharge ~200 cycles (deep cycle battery), 50% only discharge gives ~450 cycles, 30% gives ~1200 cycles. So you need more battery than you think ($$) This website is good. https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery You'll actually only be able to poke 70% recharge in with ideal conditions in 5-7h (bulk charge), then the battery charger changes over to soak charge, then the battery needs 12 - 16 hours to finish charging. Con: Never happens in winter / forest Pro: During that soak charge time, you now have excess capacity (if in full sun), so fridge etc loads will run direct off solar. If it's a sunny day. Con: Rain, fog, cloud, you could be looking at 20% solar output opnly. Every now and then (month or 2) you're going to want to do an equalisation charge (16 - 24 hours) to make sure all the cells top off. This means putting more solar on the roof doesn't help (the batteries charge faster, it just takes time) So you @yoeddynz living off grid needs 4 times as much solar as you think (rainy days), and 3 times as much battery, or your batteries will degrade fast You can't charge them fully, so if fully off grid, they're going to degrade anyway. You'll get away with it for a while in a bus, of course, if you have enough not to go flat, and can go home and soak charge. if you want to ensure very reliable power availability, even more $$ Of course, there's whatever else onboard there for loads (stereo, laptop?) and, charge/discharge and conversion inefficiencies (prob ~90% each), add them all to the Ah (Amp hour) tally. So: what you save on the fridge, you're likely to pay way more for in extra solar and storage capacity needed. Use a LVD (low voltage disconnect) to make sure gear doesn't over-discharge your battery (and fuck it). Often built into the charger, or cheapish separate. Probs don't need to isolate all that junk when starting, all those loads are small ( fridge, 4A) compared to starting (200A for 3.6 seconds [ i.e. 1/1000 of an hour] is 200/1000 = 0.2Ah). They just add up over time (4 Amp Hours, 24h = 100Ah) Simples, and ugly.

"About 2,060,000 results (0.50 seconds)" https://www.google.com/search?q=motor+overheats+when+ignition+retarded

Luckily you know some pasty white guys with soldering irons...

The escoot I have has a 24V brushed motor, plus chain and sprocket. It's a wee bit noisy, I think I'd prefer (or will add) a brushless front wheel because quieter. Just my $0.02

New alias, who's Wayne?

Arduino plus continuous rotation servo? Depends how valuable you consider your time to be.

You've changed rods / pistons from 10.5 to 9 CR, yeah? What does that do to the combustion? Maybe the flame front is slower, so it all needs more advance? As Cletus mentions above, over-retarded ignition can cause overheating? (I'm pretty sure I've seen that on -cough- smaller engines). I'm also reading reports on other engines over-heating when too retarded. 1st graph here has some clues miiiight be helpful. https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/compression-ratio To my eyes it looks like the r8.6 peak pressure is lower, but also takes longer to come up.

Oh, and by the way, this whole thing is awesome. I think this is the car that @kyteler used to drive me out to cell-phone coverage for in Coromandel, because middy was stressed about a thing. The attention to detail is superb, right down to touches like the nice lighting on the gauges, (good colour, and even light coverage). Bloody magic in person!

How much hp is the compressor consuming at idle (tiny/some)? Belt getting hot? Is there some kind of clutch arrangement, or does it squish all the time? Any chance it's running nasty lean?

For basic movement: at what speeds, for how far? That'll help tell you how much power you need (watts), which tells you how much voltage/amps you needs, and how much energy you'll need store (Watt hours).

Ain't @yoeddynz done this? Check his threads?