chris r

I have rear lsd so its less of a issue. The stock Honda rear bar is pretty small so hopefully wont be too over powering. I have a few bars off hondas I have wrecked so i'll see if I can make one fit

You and me both

I believe straighten. I cannot see any marks on it at all, There were no kinks or marks in the shaft when I dropped it in.

It is a koni and is all fixed as of this afternoon. Was $50 odd including fresh oil

honda call it real time real time 4wd I am aware its not 'proper' 4wd Mine is the intrac so has no viscous coupler in the drive shaft. Dont know if it has one in the doff or not. Will have to pull it apart one day and find out. Its the diff towards the bottom of that link.

Popped into the engine builders and my short block is ready. Its costing a bit more than I expected but its had a fiar bit of machining and will hopefully take all the abuse I can throw at it. I need to finish my interfooler piping off and dummy up the dump pipe. I'll slap my big injectors and 3 bar map sensor on the current motor and make sure its runing nicely with my base tune on the ecu before running in the new bottom end

Thanks for everything, My honda is 4wd Yes they made them. link is german but shows it http://www.hondaoldies.de/Korbmacher-Archiv/Technik/rt4wd.htm I have lowered uprated springs and shocks replaced all bushes. Alignment will be done when its back together. I have done all the bushes. and have front/rear strut bars Wheels are fairly light weight and 195 tires aren't too excessively big? Lots of it will come down to my driving style and lack of skill. I know a sway bar in the back will not magically make it heaps better- I was more aiming to do some learning and if it makes a difference its good. What I found was it didn't want to turn in at all and would just plow on straight ahead. Here is a old video of my horrible driving. The first turn you can kind of see it. It is higher in the front now than in the vid

Fix one leak and it grows another. It has always smelt a tad of fuel after yopu fill it. today it smelt strongly of fuel. TUrns out the fuel hose is leaking and its dripping on the floor and stinking out the cabin. The tank is behind the bench seat in these. I'll pull it apart and see what it needs to not leak

My Drawing is excessive on the angles but it was more to demonstrate what I have found. I do think it will bind up. Thanks for the articles The links will be at a angle because the convenient holes in the LCA do not line up with the sway bars I have come across. Shuttles never had a rear sway bar from factory so I am trying to find something that will work. I will get some photos of what I am working with

I have been pondering this for a while. My shuttle is very under steery- Yes I need to improve my driving style. It has no rear sway bar from factory. I am planning on putting a stock one out of another Ef in it which from what I have read will help with understeer? With the links from swaybar to the lower control arm do the links have to be vertical at rest or can they be at a angle with no issues? I have done a terrible ms paint pic. The black is the subframe and LCAs and orange is my proposed links. red is sway bar. (the sway bar will be horizontal of course and not like the picture) I am thinking there could be some binding if the distances change throughout the suspension movement? Who can school me on sway bar theory?

Had a alignment today. Took two hours but is heaps better to drive now. Thanks to New Lynn Tireworx. He said it looked like it hadn't been Touched in a long time. It feels weird not having to put pressure on the wheel to go straight

I have booked accomodation. There will be a cost per head. I will message the people who have expressed interest. The 100 dollar cost is if the house is full

I have no idea how it got bent. I took it out to do maintenance and noticed that the shaft looked odd. They are out of another vehicle so perhaps previous owner was a rough dude?

Had a chat with russell and It might be able to be straightned as its in the middle. If the shaft is not kinked it should be ok. Failing that there is a new one in stock. Either way there is a result. I'll head over tomorrow and sort it

Whats the story with the cool truck in the background?

Nah on the Gillies imo. wear out the alternator bearings real fast ( dont know how/if it effects the waterpump) Just supercharge it and get a better noise!

Right rear took heaps of adjusting. It probably needs more but Its too much effort to jack both wheels up and see how it spins. The drum is tight to take off and on. It might lock up BOTH rears now before the fronts do sfa

Storing stuff. Haven't decided what to do with all of the tins yet.

I got some Knead it epoxy stuff in a attempt to make the steering wheel less shit and have chunks falling off and moving around. Its best to use very small amounts as it sets pretty quickly. It turned out ok its not the best looking thing but is stronger and the pieces no longer move/try to fall off, and $20ish is cheaper than a steering wheel. Got some other stuff too for the tray.

Boring news, Trans will be a service/some gaskets thrown at it and a service and hopefully that'll sort out the worst of the leaks. Its booked in for a alignment next week too so hopefully it'll go straight ish and might dive left less when braking. Will need to re adjust the brakes and probabaly give them a bleed too and see how it does. Drums are a pain!

I havent had another look at the counting section of this yet But I have found a case for it. I will need to make something up to mount the dekatron (and fix the circuit for powering it). It looks to be just about the perfect size for what I want. How long until someone decides its a bomb or similar? Thinking about it I might swap the clock display and the dekatron around so it looks like the bunch of wires actually do something

My brother dropped some cool storage containers off last night. Should find some uses for them. There are three total of the large ones

Upgrading from front drums to discs - Is there a minimum size for vehicle size etc? If I make a bracket to mount the caliper is there a minimum thickness it needs to be? 6mm/10mm? What is the deal with the disc conversions from the states with the new spindles rotors etc?

Most of the fun is figuring out how it goes together and then how it works

Looking good. The rust repair is almost identical to my old ae 82. The early ecus can often be repaired. I know a person who we used to send them to. WIll have to dig up the number