chris r

I picked up a few bits today, spare seat rails, radio surround and bumper supports. It'll be nice not to have screws doing through the bumper and guard holding stuff together

Got rid of the crappy bumper with the cutout for the big bore

Apparently you need a tool for compressing the spring so you can get the circlip out that holds all of this in I'm too cheap and a barry so I made one It works undo all the screws holding the other stuff in Take all the torx screws out, pull the ignition barrel out and you can tighten some of the locking screws These two There are two more up top but I couldn't get the slide pins out and with a bit of research industry practice is to tighten these two. It went from cock in a sock to nice and tight. The small bit of movement is because I hadn't tightened up the support bracket. All went well with only one casualty, the high beam switch. Whoever designed that rod/plastic mechanism needs a dick punch or should have been wiped on the curtain. I spend the most time figuring out how to get the rod back in place. I'll order a new switch and that should be it for that. There is a bloody frustrating mix of metric and imperial fasteners in this thing.

I borrowed a steering wheel puller and did this. Thanks Dylan for the loan if the tools. Tomorrow's job is to figure out and hopefully fix the play in the mechanism

I swapped the dash today with one that doesn't have holes all through it. while it was out I swapped the ac evaporator box for a nz new non ac duct so save a bit of space. The high pressure side of the fuel system is all good. I'm not sure if the filler tube is not properly sealed or if it was water leaking out when I filled it but I'll check that out tomorrow. I few more test drives and a final check over and its ready for the dyno. I will need to replace the rear muffler as it is still too loud ofr this old man It took a while to figure out why I couldn't pull it out even though all the bolts were removed, then I saw this. At least the screen won't leak I guess

Hmm I'll do some testing and see how the factory fuel light actually works

Just a note with these repro tanks, the EF8 fuel sender doesn't fit nicely. I used a non vtec Ef sender in its place as the fuel light section of my one doesn't work. I'll make a up a voltage switching thingee to turn on the fuel light when its low Nice new tank And everythign installed And because everyone likes basic maintenance photos here is one of a replacement thermostat. I just need to let the loctite chooch and I can fire it up

Looking good! Fax me the loom and some diagrams and I'll sort it

I've probably got one you can borrow. Pm me tomorrow to remind me to check

You can do that. Best practice is to pull it out and drop it in a pot of hot water and watch the resistance change. If it's smooth it's probably OK. You can try look up the factory specs a d compare ot

It's probably not the oxygen sensor there usually isn't enough fuel trim to flood it from o2 sensor input Most likely will be coolant temp sensor.

This is awesome. I'm glad you got it! I prefer the 13s personally

Replaced the ICs and put them in correctly this time and it works. The in-13 is slightly noisy but you get used to it. Just need to make a enclosure for it

More tubes turned up today so I carried on assembling the board this evening. Because I'm tired and wasn't paying attention I put one of the ICs in the wrong way and its not working properly now. I have ordered some replacements and will try again tomorrow.It is meant to be displaying zero but clearly isn't

Those usually need a couple of components etc but simple enough. You will need a heatsink though

Yeah the only way to drive this, no plates and pesting around hah

I took it for a pest drive down to the shops, The foam in the seat swab has collapsed on one side so i'll have to figure something out to level it out. Its nice and quiet to drive, all you hear is a bit of transmission whine, It has 11ty layers of carpet and underlay which will help

I finally did some stuff on this today. I finished off the headlight wiring and they work, I still have to align them as they are on the piss. Looking at that pic I need to re do the battery positive lead so it sits nicer I pulled out all the barry spec wiring for the radio, cd stacker, and fuck knows what else Check out the battery box

I figured that out once I had the leaf off I'm used to working on coil sprung stuff

I assembled the HV power supply today and de soldered the in-13 as I had it the wrong way around. Still too lazy to bring in the snips from the car to trim everything

Started populating the board tonight I realized I've put the bar the wrong way around. I need to trim all the leads and make up the power supply so I'll double check everything another day I had a look through my box of tubes and they are all too small. I'll just have to order some more

The stuff arrived today. I'm looking forward to assembling it. I'll have to find a cool looking box for it to sit in

I'm too lazy/tired to read it but are you running positive earth or negative earth? Do the vibrator or trembler points still work? If you were keen you may be able to fit a modern internal coil and ignition module out of a dizzy and use the "trembler" points to trigger it

Fixed the photos. I have put a new socket and primary fuse in this so its less likely to kill you. Still haven't mounted the switch panel properly, its currently wedged in. I have ordered a nixie thermometer kit from the same guy I got the clock kit from. It should be here some time next week

On some of my older shitters the speed meter has a tiny reed switch in the back for the ecu speed signal. Possibly your wagon dash has that?