Guypie

So I started by stripping back the roof as the paint was totally stuffed. Tried paint stripper: This was a big ole fail. so ended up using this: It was good. I have painted the roof with tergo blackguard for now until I can get my compressor sorted spray it with epoxy primer, Hopefully that kills all the little rust worms that were burrowing into the steel. Dont have a pic of that as it stands. Im starting work from the rear end as the tailgate top has been leaking and the water has run down the inside of the panels and collected in the bottoms of the rear quarters. This is the bottom tailgate: Its pretty solid up the top but the bottom will need a couple of big patches. The top half of the tailgate is swiss cheese, So I have sourced another from greymouth, arrived last week.

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/50305-guypies-1961-morris-oxford-discussion/ Ok, so I have had this thing for a while now, got it off the provider of many an oldschool ride, Zebra dude. I didnt really want to post up anything on it til I had actually got some work done since the Vauxhall Victor never got off the ground, except when I loaded it on a trailer to swap for this with Ben. Since I have found a repair certifier who would probably have been more sympathetic to my wanting to do my own repairs, however I have come to like this car more than the Victor, mostly because wagon, and the fact I can go for a blat around the block when my motivation is low! anywho enough word, here it is: Progress to date to be posted shortly...

Does anyone here use weld through primer when doing rust repairs? or everyone? is it necessary? I have started doing the rust repairs on my morrie, build thread will come when I have done enough to be worth posting about. Also if it is the go what brand do you use/where do you get it from? Seems kinda pricey but if it keeps the rust away... Cheers Guy

I think the reason why they say drilling jets is a gamble is because most people have more than 1 carby. So to get 2 drilled jets identical is probably not going to happen, but if you only have one carb the "sweet spot" is big enough that inconsistancy isnt really an issue. Though that aliexpress deal seems like the go tbh

YES!!!!1! Cant wait to see what you do with this. I have an engine like this too, was thinking about using it for a velobike...

The ZZ exhaust bolts straight onto sj50 and gives a bit of a performance improvement. I have one on my nifty fifty which has a SJ50 engine in it. known as the Niftsj in our household.

Cool, will give that a try. Don't actually know how fast my lathe spins, it just has stepped pulleys. I should probably do the math and figure it out, but might just chuck it in backgear and see what happens. Then if it doesnt work do the maths.

A bit more progress, though nothing major as sanding takes ages and the recoat time for the varnish I am using is 18 hours @20c so its a coat a day. heres the sliders drying after coating: and the front and rear standards hanging up to dry in the darkroom: I cut out some bits of felt for light seals and installed them: This one has a little groove carved in the wood that the film holder clicks into when slid into place and cut a hole in the lensboard and painted it black: standards nearly finished: Now heres the real hangup, its the pivot point nut that needs to go in centre of the standards for tilt and rise/fall functions. this is one I turned up, its pretty rough, im not great at lathing things. The big problem I have is that I cannot for the life of me get this to part off, is there some special trick to parting off stainless? I have one of the parting tools that take HSS blanks, it has a few degrees of upward rake and I sharpened the bit with no relief scallop on top but in the end I just had to hacksaw it off and face off the ugly bit. It is hard work cutting a piece of 15mm solid ss with a blunt hacksaw! Any suggestions would be great.

Finished the front standard and started work on the rail sliders today. The camera rail is from some kind of clip together shelving system they sell at bunnings. Its 1" square ali tube 450mm long, nice and smooth with anodisation for corrosion resistance. will probably shorten it and get another piece for if I end up getting different lenses that need a longer bellows extension at a later date. Front standard and MDF mock up lens board: The sliders will have a clamp screw at the bottom to pinch the rail and a rotating platform on to hold the fork the standards pivot on. There will be 3 sliders, one for rear standard, one for front and one for the tripod mount. Slider on rail: Mockup of the camera on rail to get an idea of proportions: Slider number 2 glued and clamped: That's all for now, not much woodwork left to go. Will soon be on the lathe making pivots for the rail sliders. Will probably have to invest in some taps and dies though as my budget chinese ones are total poos. Or steal some from a friend maybe, dies are stupid expensive.

Nice! best (by best I mean cheapest) way to learn is probably to use photo paper cut to size until you get the hang of it or get some shanghai iso100 4x5 film. I have not really used 4x5 except at the start of the year I went down to the Masterton and did a wet plate photography course over a weekend. It was fun but so much work and so many points during the process you can stuff up your plate. Also I have a speed graphic that I have put a polaroid back on to take the type 100 pack film. Its a smaller format taken using a 4x5 camera though. Photobucket is useless, I will move to imgur and re post the photos. I wanted to join flickr but screw signing up to a yahoo email just for that.

Got a little bit more done on this now, started off by making a frame for the ground glass. I carved a portion of the inside of the frame so that the ground glass sits on a step on the inside at 5mm from the face of the camera back. this is important as that is where you focus to and it has to be the same point as where the film sits in the film cassette. Next I ground the glass with a combination of fine valve grinding paste and cerium oxide mixed with water. Last time I did this I used medium valve grinding paste and the grind was too coarse. On cutting out the piece of glass it chipped out on one edge, so it was back to the grind stone (or chunk of stainless steel in this case) for round 2. Grinding glass: Chipped piece: 2nd time ok! Glass in frame: This frame will be spring loaded against the back of the camera and you will lift and slide the film cassette underneath once you have composed/focused your image like so:

I started building this camera last Friday because I have a nasty chest infection and cant spend time in the garage at the moment (too cold out there), but I get stir crazy sitting inside watching youtube/reading books/internetsing etc etc. Wifey isnt so happy about all the sawdust Im making but at lease she doesn't have to put up with me whinging about being bored every 30 seconds so she seems to be putting up with it. Heres what I started with: The lens and shutter work nicely and from what I have read online covers up to 5x7 so 4x5 with movements should be all good. The black thing is a film cassette, it holds 2 sheets of 4"x5" film, hence 4x5 camera. A lot of landscape photographers still prefer this format over digital apparently as resolution is 13x that of 35mm film which is said to be around 16megapickles equivalent, and the movements of the camera allow you to change the perspective of the photo in ways normal cameras generally cant. So far I have almost completed main frame of the rear standard. It will hold the film cassette, the ground glass that you use to compose your picture (yet to be made) and will pivot on a rail, and also be able to slide back and forth. I dont have much in the way of woodworking tools so this is all done manually with knifes, chisels and handsaws. Also dont have much in the way of woodworking skills so learning plenty on the way. kitchen counter at the moment:

I dont think you would be able to fit more than 3 or 4 people in my shed without cuddles

Still space for any more attendees?

Cool thats kinda what I thought. He was probably trying to get me to but 2 tins of paint instead of 1.

I just called up the local protec stockist and he recommended using 1k etch first and putting the 2k epoxy primer on top. Is this correct? Edit: this is to go on bare metal

It is the standard 1.5 with column shift 3 speed. Doesn't go at the moment, but apparently the guy who owned it before the guy i bought it off had it running and driving so it prob needs carb clean, new fuel and make sure it has spark. Then if the stars align maybe it will run again.

apparently reliable, but 0-60mph in 28 seconds and top speed of 119kmh so not fast. 3 on the tree is great though! I like the Mr nice guy gasser, thats cool, still not really what im after though hahaha

Definitely low, widened steels, probably white walls. I dont think a small block would fit, was thinking about it till i got it and saw how small the engine bay is. I did see one on youtube with a rover v8 though

Over in Nawton now, went to the cheap houses.

Discuss my rusty piece of junk here

So I finally got round to getting an oldschool car. Needs a lot of work as it is rusty, does not run and does not stop. My plan at this stage is to tear it down very carefully over winter to a shell with running gear, and getting it sandblasted and primed come summertime and the start patching all the gaping rust holes. Also, will add moar low and probably get the steelies widened/find a wider steel wheel that fits. Hood lining is mint, not sure how to remove without ruining it. Seats are in ok condition, carpets are long gone. Has many rusty patches but as cars of this age go it isnt that bad. Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48006-guypies-1960-vauxhall-victor-f-discussion/ Pictures:

Take the exhaust off so you can look in the port, turn it til the piston uncovers the exhaust port. Mark the flywheel and a mark somwhere adjacent on the engine casing at the point the port is first uncovered. Rotate it til reached the point of closing and mark this point. Get a protractor and measure how many degrees the port was open for. Should be about 120 at a guess, possibly less. Well thats how I usually do it anyways, others might have better ways.

If you can figure out the exhaust port duration and what rpm you want the powerband to be I can give you dimensions, I use this book to do the math: http://www.amazon.com/Two-Stroke-Performance-Tuning-A-Bell/dp/1859606199

My brother has had a setup just like this for the last ten years or so. Also if you look up 12v power supplies on trademe you can get high current ones pretty cheap these days because of all the led lighting people are using in their houses these days.