puddles

G'day, In the workshop we'd always be pretty pessimistic with a problem like this sorry. If not blown head gasket, then cracked block or cracked/warped heads. Can you check for combustion gases in the coolant? You'll need to remove the old coolant and refill to ensure an accurate test (Teekay test) Does it overpressurize quickly before warming up from a cold start? Do you see bubbles in the radiator when running up from a cold start? You can temporarily extend the filler cap neck with a funnel etc to check for bubbles when running up. You can pressurise the cooling system 13psi and leave overnight and see if it hydraulics/coolant in the combustion chamber. Disable the fuel pump/crimp the line, spin it over after leaving pressurised overnight with the plugs out and check for coolant mist shooting out the plug holes. Coolant in the oil? Compression test? Often after you do a hot shutdown, you might hear/feel gurgling in the top radiator hose which is not a great sign. edit added stuff/disclaimer: take this with a grain of salt, it is impossible to diagnose a cracked block over the internet. Apologies/delete if this has been covered already.

Love this truck mate, thanks for the vids

Happens all the time with Peugeot 1.6 turbo petrol engines. The factory ngks can start to do this at 20000 km. causes check engine light misfire codes etc. I think they're changed every 40000km

You can reseal the sump with the motor still in the car. You'll need a hoist though, can drop the subframe to do it. Lots of people leave out the gasket and just use rtv. Were there heaps of cracks in the exhaust housings?

My 93 Impreza has a big 30 amp fuse for the electric windows labeled sbf1, in the engine bay fuse box next to the battery.

Awesome looking vehicle. The chassis rail connectors, why the need? Are you significantly increasing the engine output? Is it required for cert/race legalities etc? Are you worried the chassis will twist, how is established that it is still safe in a crash? The job you have done looks very tidy by the way.

Ha! Got a boost guage on the thing?

a guy i know just vents the tank to the ground, on the firewall, where the hard lines finish. i can see you are too thorough for that. I'm led to believe the fuel pressure solenoid is only for hot starts and not necessary in nz conditions, i've got away with it missing for ages now, have checked the tune with wideband. I just plumb the regulator to boost source post throttle. You're going well man keep it up

you can run a short belt with small contact on the wp pulley, or an idler, or oversize pulleys, its up to you. You are correct that the cat needs the airpump to work, so you gotta take out the cat too. Theres so much stuff to remove on these motors i could go on and on

nice one. I've only ever seen the early rat nest so i'm no help there. Theres a tricky white plug to unplug inside the cabin behind the heater box as well as the ecu plugs to get the loom out. The sub loom for alternator powersteer and other passenger side sensors is tiny and easy to manage. I'd take out the airpump, you will need to get creative with your drive belt, and the air mix valve on the lim. Its a massive thing can't miss it. Green brothers sell nifty block off plates for stuff. To run the sequential system you don't need alot, google simplified sequential conversion. Not sure how much you want to rip out. may i just say how lovely and simple my de-sequentialed fd is to work on and look at

it kind of defeats the purpose of an aftermarket ecu, if you make it run the sequential twins. The factory ecu does a good enough job for that. Aftermarket ecus suit single turbo conversions. Turbos have come a long way since the nineties and the stock twins really belong in the bin. That said i really like the apexi power fc as it is so simple. The motor will run on one rotor, it'll sound like shit, but it will run. seriously just grap a regular compression tester, pull the valve out and watch the bounces. i've used the official mazda nz tester and it isn't that much better. it is easy to unplug the entire engine harness from the ecu and pull the whole thing out, including firewall grommet. I stripped one down to bare wires on sunday, it took about an hour. you will be able to see the harness and any broken wires. all this is assuming you've checked the basics obviously.

iac, not iat

Is it misfiring? Will it rev right up/make boost? How are you measuring the air/fuel mix, they are very smelly cars. it should idle smoothly with occasional burps with adjustment on the butterfly, with iat disconnected. faulty clutch switch will have hunting unstable idle whilst in gear.

Cool, the stock sequential system is awesome and really responsive. There are a bunch of solenoids you can still remove to make life easier. Taking out the emissions gear makes a lot of space. Use 330 ohm resistors to fake any solenoids you remove.

G'day, nice buy. Is it still sequential? ive wired up a few of these and own one running the stock ecu. You should first decide if you want to keep it sequential twin turbo. Not sure if you've seen the rats nest yet but you are in for a challenge if you want to keep it dead stock. The stock ecu is quite forgiving and will run in limp mode with many sensors unplugged. it will idle in limp mode without the map, IAC, o2 sensor and a variety of other thing sensors missing. You can tell its in limp mode by the inability to rev it above 3 or 4k rpm and backfiring if you try to. My JDM import does not have a check engine light. You can quickly check its compression by listening to the chuffs with the plugs out. I have de-sequential'd a couple of fds and prefer it for simplicity and easy troubleshooting of issues. Check out the service highlights on foxed.ca, that explains the sensor relationships and what you need to run. I'm happy to help if i can with any questions etc

cool thanks, are you gonna run a heater with that funky exhaust manifold?

g'day, love the car, the missus wants to know where you got your door mirror from?

the vw 1.4 tsi twin charge uses a clutched eaton supercharger that blows through a small turbo up to about 3000rpm and then is clutched out and runs on turbo only. above 3000 rpm a valve opens and the supercharger is bypassed. its a really cool engine to drive and is rapid enoungh. we had problems many with owners filling them with 91 octane and putting holes in the pistons. you can find that motor in everything from the golf to the tiguan and new beetle. vw stopped using that motor because i think its too costly. you can get the supercharger to kick in in reverse gear which is pretty funny