When Coasting down a hill (engine braking) the throttle is closed, so there is a high vacuum. If your valve stem seals are shot oil gets sucked past them, then when you open the throttle it burns that oil. Sounds like oil and unburnt fuel collected in the exhaust and then ignited, blowing up your muffler.
Would also be worth checking the PCV valve. With engine running pull it out of the rocker cover, it should be sucking. Put your thumb over the end and you should hear it click closed.
Supercustom heads arnt too bad to fit but may be a challenge for an amateur. You will need a engine shop to swap over the valves and set the clearances.
Supercustoms have two radiator. Except the early models had one. You would want to pull them out and get them cleaned out. This can be a pain in the butt job.
While you are at it you would also want to replace water pump and thermostat for good measure.
So yeah, the head is only half the cost.