yetchh

You mean like these guys?

Yeah, dunno how straight out would be tho..

Yeah well the zephyr guys seem to get away with fairly good offset, don't forget that these are fwd 2013 wheels going on a 1965 zephyr so the hubs and bearings are already made for more offset, Also I talked to Royce Clive today, dunno if I'm being a cheap cunt but they wanted $100 per rim to reverse the centers.. there's only 4 50mm welds holding them together, seems a bit exorbitant to me..

Can wheels be certed separately, or is that automatic from the engineer ?

Just checked the rims and the lip is identical front and back except for the bead line, they're of a qashqai and the only ones that had that euro steel look that I could find with a 5x114.3 pcd and with the ford gt center caps they should look fairly good.. better than the xp rims on my Zephyr anyway.. did a search and I take it lovelady is the place but if its out in darfield I think I'll just go to Royce Clive, a little bit closer

yeah, but then who's gonna know? except maybe a wof guy but mines pretty lenient..

Spose there's no reason for it to be anything other than new, it doesn't lube anything just creates drag, its pretty stable stuff silicone oil.. quite a bit different from a toyota one inside..

Should be cheap as chips second hand..

Making them fit is the point of this thread, fwd wheels on a rwd is always going to be hard. This isn't for a full on drift machine, but a monthly cruiser at most, I think you can safely tuck yourself in bed knowing I'm not gonna magic myself through the side of your house on collapsed spacers/home job wheels..

I did think about that but the 500 bucks put me off haha..

No worries bro, happy to help

yeah thats what I've been thinking, tho it seems the max I can offset the center is about 15mm, 35mm to little. Are barrels dedicated to one side or can they be reversed so as to give me more offset?

i was actually just thinking it's prob cheaper and easier to just get the center moved..

Here's a good site that'll help you understand them better.. http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/tuning-and-understanding-your-toyota-viscous-fan-clutch

if it's a Toyota then you can service the fan, I just did the fan on my hilux as it wasn't locking up, takes about an hour to clean and set the valve(if you need to) you can buy 10000cst silicone oil from bnt for pretty cheap.. Plus, you'll never get the same amount of flow with Elec fans as you will with a viscous..

really? well I wasn't gonna get them certed anyway

Finally I put my steelies on the zephyr the other day and surprise surprise I need spacers, so I'm after some 50mm hub centric 5x114.3 spacers for a nissan center bore(thinks its 66.1mm).. who makes them this thick for a reasonable price? looking on the tard they seem to range from 100 to 250 for a a 15mm pair, I realise 50mms are gonna be a bit more spensive, would I be better off buying some ali bar from ulrich and having some made up.. any ideas? Cheers

Wharariki is and awesome beach ( when its not windy as F#%k) used to be the secret spot but now 40k people visit each year .. still awesome tho

exclusive huh?..

I read somewhere that somewhere that 2.0tdi golfs have an adjustable cam sprocket to compensate for belt stretch and wear, but if fully advanced shifts the torque curve up the rpm range, reducing hole shot but good on the freeway, why can't you just retard your cam timing to shift the curve down the range further.. funny thing about oilers which i never believed for ages is they're the complete opposite of petrol with regards to lean ratios and heat, so all those stinky black trucks you see driving round must be running fairly hot, special in summer

I enjoyed the scraps.. was a 'little' late getting there, still managed some beers and shit talk.. def in for the summer bbq stylz..

well the zed failed a wof pretty badly, wont be rolling oldschool like.. but will be rolling

well I fixed it, somehow.. seems that the '92 Domani doesn't use a clock spring but the classic pin and ring setup (slip ring).. five rings but instead of a pin it was two tabs on each ring, under sprung tension when the unit is closed.. pretty simple, but all the contacts had continuity, before I put it all back together I checked the ignition and the light came on, means somethings working.. So I stuck the whole lot back together and hey presto, light goes off after 6 secs.. must have just been a lose connection somewhere.. cheers for the input..

Thats my plan bro, check the bulb first then clock spring..

haha.. surely it would just be easier to fix the problems to start with.. unless I spose thing have to be bought new.. mmmm ok, still some seem fairly elaborate..