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@Truenotch soz for the spam, I still have a 1kz hangover...

Must be a power thing then, my 185 was rated at 106kw vs I guess the 96kw of the kzj, what were you getting on standard 31's

I'm pretty sure that only works on early 90's hiluxes, I couldn't do it on my kzn185 (if you can I couldn't find the method) @Truenotch is the van quite heavy? I used to get 9.5km/l with mine and that would jump to 13-14km/l towing with me doing 95-100kph..

The start up sounds epic, 500rpm with cold start enrichment for max lumpy idle.. Excellent job bro, should prob have a drive of the imp in its current guise so I can make comparisons..

They kind did, but the surf had a thinner radiator and smaller fan from the start, prado and hilux both had thicker radiators and fans with the prado having a cooler stat but they all still had issues at some point with a lot of it coming back to the the viscous hub/cooling system condition (and diving style) My 1kz managed to do 360km with its original head but I put that down to me being proactive for the last 120km and taking all steps to avert overheating. When I first bought it in 2013, the gauge would move when overtaking a semi trailer on the open road but I never let it get into the red, they don't use speed for cooling, it's all down to the fan and in the end for me it was only my heavy foot with a load on that would cause the gauge to move, that and the low speed thing which I thick is fixable also. The other thing that you should use is a egt gauge that way you know exactly what's going on.

I tried the 1kd blue hub (brand new from toyota) on mine but didn't even make it halfway up takaka hill with an empty trailer before the guage started moving, went back to the kzn165 hub that I put on and had no more dramas (apart from my driving style) 10000cst oil didn't really help much so I bought 30000cst from acorn models and went about 50/50 with 10000cst, when it came fully on it would sap a bit of power but fuck it moved some air... had the 10 blade fan and also a B&M trans cooler with thermo fan.. The main problem I found with hill towing was low speed and not enough air flowing over the interheater so everything would slowly heat soak, I was about to start spraying water over the cooler to see if that helped but the car got nicked.... Problem solved

If you're gonna tow with a 1kz you need to make sure your cooling is tip top, 3" turbo back helps a lot for cool running as does the prado 82deg stat, check your fan for oil, I added a fairly high weight oil as opposed to the factory 10cst meant that when the fan came on there wasn't much slippage.. I also put in a redline 4 core rad as factory they're average, for the surf anyway.

Dang, I just drove back from chch today..

They get lost in the sands of time...

Wire brushed the housing and gave it two coats of epoxy and two of chassis black, came out looking way better than I expected, the axle seals are about 200mm down the tube and a cunt to change, it was recommended that i upgrade bearings which are slightly grumbly to sealed units which cures both problems, these run a full floating hub which makes it very easy to change in the future without having to pull off the entire assembly, for now I just packed it all full of grease. rear drum cylinders have seen better days so I'll prob just sleeve them and forget about them for the next 60 years.. well, 35 anyway... I still need to buy a set of spring rubbers but to be honest the factory ones are still in pretty good shape and at $200 a set for new ones I might just bang em back in, also priced up two handbrake return springs from the UK at $12 but the $60 shipping killed it. If anyone has a hook up for these springs in NZ it would be much appreciated (look like this) Also after a front eye bolt if anyone has a spare lying around.. up to date, bit of work for something that isn't seen but since I've spent almost nothing on this i think she deserves it

Started painting bits, initially I thought of left my gun in chch so thought I give a reusable spray can a go, bought a jacquard youcan from the warehouse and had a crack.. Was a bit of a pain as I constantly had to clean it and could only put a small amount of paint in it or it would lots pressure too quick (takes 100psi)and splatter paint instead of spraying, good for a small job. Managed to spray one set of springs, brake drums and saddle plates, then found my gun.. Suffice to say it's waaay quicker and cleaner hah. Coat of epoxy then a coat of satin chassis paint.. Gave the head the same treatment, All came up looking good, especially the dampers when you look at them before. Also decided that while all this was out I'd vacuum under there, should really have had it steam cleaned but meh, scraped 60 years of dust and crud from around the arches.. One side...

Bit of an update, took a bunch of bolts and stuff down with me to chch to be cleaned up and plated which worked out mostly good bar the bit where some bolts for lost including one front eye bolt and two handbrake return springs, bit if a cunt especially the eye bolt, also after telling the bloke what I wanted plated some bits got missed which isn't a biggie just a bit annoying that this shit gets missed, also ended up having to have a new driveshaft made as apparently reputable companies have stopped making the smaller 1850 uj's and they all now come from China and have too much radial movement so i either take the risk or for double get a new one with the larger v8 uj's (*sigh) cost me but I seemed to be having bad luck with the things.. Got a lowering kit from chamberlain's and a full set of superpro bushes, bought some more paint and other bits and pieces.. Stripped the diff and gave it some rust treatment, Spent a few hours splitting up the springs and getting them back to good metal, had a fair amount of wear which would go some way to explaining their performance.. The antifriction pads had seen better days, can only find these particular pads in urethane which seems to be a bad choice for such a high wear environment, have ordered a 250mm rod of 50mm uhmwpe to make some better ones.

Fuck yeah bro, what an epic journey.. Know that roller-coaster well so I'm stoked for you.

They do also on my 929 coupe but they are pressed on such a way as to give strength, the kits sold for the mk3 have no gusseting or any strengthening and are just a thinnish extended spring plate to accommodate the bottom shock mount.. For $900 they'd need to be better IMO.

Yeah I've seen that, also read a bit about oil thickness as well. I'll pull them apart and give them a service with 30wt.

There are numerous topics on converting from lever arm socks to telescopic and even a guy on trademe that sells a bolt on kit (it looks very weak with the bottom shock mount hanging off the leaf spring plate) but I think I'll just recon these and see if I can in some way make them offer a little more resistance. I'll get this driveshaft balanced as the other one I had was apparently permanently out of alignment. Hopefully this one will be better. It was also fairly soft in the back which made for a nice ride but if there was a couple of people in the back it dropped quite significantly, will talk to a mate of mine in chch who is a major zephyr Barry and see what I can do spring wise. All in all its good enough to leave under there, a couple of bits of very light surface rust that I'll treat with Lanolin, and clearly the exhaust has seen better days. There is also a fairly large amount of side to side movement in the diff and the bushes feel fairly soft, would like to upgrade to a harder compound rubber in the bushes as opposed to urethane although apparently superpro bushes are a lot better quality than nolathane. (any experiences?) you can also see below where the 16s I had the center moved on have been rubbing against the inner gaurd might just leave them off for the wof but I think it has lots to do with the lateral movement.. I will also be lowering her finally @Valiant..

Pulled the diff and associated hardware out yesterday, was pretty painless as pretty much every nut came off with little to no effort bar the u bolts putting up a small amount of resistance, very grimy which is also to be expected after almost 60 years, guess that helped keep bolt threads reasonably lubed.. The housing had some fairly bad surface rust on it but should be all good with a clean up, I'll change the pinion shaft seal reseal the head, I'll prob have to do the axle seals as a can see evidence of a leak there. Also might have to put a new brake line in as its fairly rusty too..

Loaded up the trailer and some tools/car parts and left earlyish on Monday, Used a full tank of gas to get to Ruiwaka from Chch, 14.6l/100 but such a sweet towing rig, barely ever had to put my foot down to get over any hills, thing just purrs over.. between that and the trailer which tows fucken excellent I hardly knew it was on the back. The V6 shits all over the d4d. It's amazing how a zephyr brings out all the barries and stories of yesteryear, had 4 barries out of 5 stops which is a record. In her next place of residence, gonna clean up all the running gear for the next wof as Brighton has dealt to it somewhat. It's also managed to creep under the paint in some spots so will have to fix that to, I don't want it to turn into another creeping project, so will make an effort to do the bare minimum.

Finally got the chance to get the zed out of the rust hell hole that is New Brighton. I was gonna wof her down in chch but it was too much of a mission so I decided to trailer her up to the bay as I was down for the school hols, it also meant I could free up some space at my mums (47 and still haven completely left). Despite my best efforts this time with the tunnel house I couldn't get it to stay dry which isn't ideal out in Brighton, there would always be light moisture on the car, even with a car cover, so pulled her out and pulled it down Mum can now park her car back there...

Yeah the early 1grs are shimless buckets but they changed to rockers about 2010-11 when they went to dual vvti, the other problem with the 1gr is, even tho it has a almost identical head gasket, it has a 94mm bore so I would guess the valve spacing would be to big for 4gr..

What sort of lifter arrangement does the 1nz have? valve buckets or rockers?

You think that's crappy.. 1gr is almost zephyr 6 spec..

Yeah I did the fan upgrade, tho mine was from an 80 series cruiser and fan hub from a kzn165 which I put some 30000cst oil in bringing up I guess the hub oil to about 15000cst. Pulled a Lot of air.

Gotta make sure your viscous hub is working properly too as they don't use forwards momentum for cooling, it's all down to the fan, can also get a cooler 72deg (I think) prado thermostat which gives you a bit more time.

I'm a big fan of high rpm power as opposed to all all out boosting (not that I'm opposed to that) be awesome to see that 6 scream.. I see issues with valve train and rods above 8k+ tho.