kws

Right, so I took the Mini in for a re-rego check on Wednesday at VTNZ. The car was ready for pickup today, Friday. Cost was $229 and the inspection was a strict WOF inspection. My car has failed on a few things, but i have 20 working days for a recheck. The recheck MUST be booked in first. If you miss that deadline, you must pay again and have a full inspection again. Any brake work needs to be signed off on the included declaration, with receipts, but they are happy for me to do the work and fill it out myself.

The engines appear to be have been made by Toyosha. Without knowing exactly which model Toyosha engine is in the MB1500, the best i can do is this site, https://www.southern-global.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=8 Either 49-58NM or 59-68NM depending on model HTH.

in/on what? The info is bound to be out there

On a similar topic, and I haven't searched because it's just come to me, if you built a scratch built car, And registered it now as new, does it need a cat fitted?

The old Barry at VINZ that the receptionist threw onto the phone was also adamant that there was no difference in the process for pre and post 1991 cars, despite NZTA making it clear there is (and VTNZ confirming they abide by that also, with a lower cost (sub $300) and less invasive inspection for pre-91 cars). I would avoid VINZ Lower Hutt like the plague if youre looking to re-rego a classic car.

Slowly working on getting the Mini registered. Been calling around, and have determined the vtnz is the way to go, and Vinz are rip off cunts. Vinz trying to charge twice as much as vtnz, and take twice as long.

Could you use grease and a punch to hydraulic it out? Much like you do for pilot/spigot bushing

Crazy small world. Saw this on the truck in Lower Hutt he other day, looked awesome.

Yeah im going to look into a small filter like that, to go inline in the hose. I doubt it will be an issue again, as i suspect it was an issue from back before i got the car, but best to protect it anyway. I have created a small drip loop in the hose before the sensor, so the sensor is above the hose, and angled the ECU slightly downwards (so the sensor can self drain) I have heard though that running a filter on a MAP line can slow the response of the sensor?

Further to the last couple of posts, driving Tess I still noticed a small hesitation coming on throttle. It was a lot better, but still there. The next logical step was to remove the ECU and inspect the MAP sensor, and see if there was oil in it. Sure enough, upon inspection, there was indeed oil in the MAP sensor. Lame. I tried soaking it out with brake clean, and sucking it out with a syringe, but still couldnt clear it. The trick was to turn the ECU upside down, and gently heat the MAP sensor up so the oil would thin out, and then gravity just drained it out drip by drip. I cleaned up some surface rust on the ECU bracket, gave it a quick shot of paint and reinstalled. Testing confirms the issue appears sorted, with no hesitation coming off and on throttle. The throttle response is now snappy and the slight rich mixture it had when coming on throttle is much lessened. Great success. Now to start my new job so I can afford to fuel the beast again.

Rear track is 1510mm, car width is 1770mm

Just pondering. The rear axle and torque tube setup on SD1s is pretty average (LSDs are uncommon and expensive, no provision for any sort of swaybar, the torque tube splines wear and are NLA now, and they dont handle much torque) If one was to want to swap to a conventional live rear axle, from something else a bit more common, can anyone that of one that might fit with minimal mods to mountings? I know the hilux axles were a common swap into things like starlets. I dont know if those are still the go to? Im guessing shock, spring and radius arm mounts can be added to most live axles to suit the SD1

It did work, somehow. You bleed the two together, and then you bleed the third one afterwards. Three nipples, and not even the good kind.

Belong to new page. Anyway, The other interesting fact, is that there is no oil in the hose from either the plenum to the tee, or the hose from the tee to the FPR, or for that matter, in the Tee itself. Only oil in the MAP line. I had a think about this, and suspect the oil has been in there for longer than I have had the car, as when i first got it, the MAP vacuum hose was on its own nipple in the plenum (someone had drilled it out to add a new nipple); when i swapped plenums when i first got the car, the replacement only had the standard single outlet for the FPR, so i teed off and connected the MAP to that Tee (the same as i did when i converted Effie to Speeduino). Thus, i can conclude, that the oil had been in the hose for ages and it isnt new. Its only either gotten thicker and started causing issues now, or had congregated somewhere in the hose and blocked it.

All your base...

Whoop

Derp

Bump

THis page is huge. New plz.

Its not crazy like the AP calipers on a Vitesse, where both bleed nipples on each caliper need to be bled at the same time?

I know, and i totally knew this. Checking the hose where it tees off to the FPR was the first thing i checked, but no cracks so i moved on. Downside to having to live with the hand controller only i guess. So used to seeing everything in realtime on Tunerstudio, without having to hold a button and see a single reading at a time.

Well damn. Got a harsh lesson in the KISS principle today. As above, I replaced the fuel pump and filters recently as i ran the car low on gas and it started to show hesitation when coming on throttle. There was fine metal in the fuel filter, likely from the pump, so i swapped it with another pump i had. I also fitted a pre-pump filter, to make sure no crap from the tank gets into the filter. The good news is that the inside of the tank is not rusty, and the fuel sender now works properly. Anyway, so i thought the issue was fixed, but then its been popping up randomly until a couple of days ago when i went to go help a friend with their car, and Tess got very grumpy on the way home, almost stalling when trying to take off at intersections, and if you didnt roll on the throttle slowly it would fall flat on its face, backfire and carry on until it cleared and would rev happily to limiter. I checked all the plugs, all very black (i only cleaned them the other day) and a couple of them wet with fuel. I replaced them with new ones, issue remained. I checked all injectors were working, they were all firing OK. I reinstalled the air intake back in front of the radiator, no change. I removed and cleaned the cap and rotor, no change. Checked for vacuum leaks around inlet manifold, none. Cleaned idle control valve, no change. Removed idle control valve and bypassed, no change. Re-wired idle control valve as plug was damaged, no change. Resistance tested all leads, all OK. Resistance tested coil, OK. Stripped down coil and amplifier unit, and swapped parts from another unit I had, after thoroughly cleaning all parts. No change. WTF. I then stood back and thought, "damn, its almost like when Effie didnt have enough acceleration enrichment in the tune, I wonder what the ECU is seeing on the MAP sensor". A quick check on the hand controller, and BAM, the MAP reading was all over the show when the throttle was blipped and wasnt responding as quick as it shouldve been. I removed the vacuum line to the MAP sensor, which also Tees off the FPR, and inspected it. No cracks, no holes, nothing. I tested it for holding a vacuum with a hand pump, held well. I was about to reinstall it again and admit defeat for the day when suddenly a small dribble of oil came out of the end of the vacuum hose. Well damn, WTF? I squirted some brake clean down the hose and it took a fair bit to come out the end of the hose. Eventually it came through as solid black, slimey and with some lumps. It took a lot of brake clean to clear the hose and run clear again; lots of oil in the hose. The hose was refitted, and I fired the car up again. It fired straight up, and the MAP reading on the hand controller was much more stable and quick to respond. A couple of blips of the throttle and there was a little stutter, but once the plugs cleared it showed no signs at all of hesitating when giving it throttle. I took it for a drive, and no matter how hard i came on the throttle, even taking it up a steep hill, she just pulled hard. So, in conclusion, I probably didnt need to replace the fuel pump, it obviously wasn't too bad and was just a coincidence that the car started to run badly when i was low on fuel. The vacuum line, which is the main "load" feed for the ECU was full of blow-by oil. So a tip to anyone that is running a remote map sensor, make sure you keep your vacuum hose clean. KISS. Keep It Simple, Stupid.

Also had to "jumpstart" the battery charge on my 5A Ctek before, but that was for a 6v motorbike battery that had been at 0v for about 5 years. It did manage to charge it, but the battery was poked and didnt hold a charge long. Big fan of the Ctek chargers, quick, reliable and simple. A lot of brands use Ctek as their official branded charger too. All the chargers we had at Mercedes were Ctek, albeit the massive top of the line ones.

I love looking at random stuff with microscopes. I know it sounds gross, but a wart looks like a martian landscape under one lol

From what i remember of tuning my car, you shouldnt be relying on auto tune to tune the idle. Do that manually, and then block out auto tune from touching that area. If you havent already, it would be worth you going over the MS manuals, as they have some really good information on setup and tuning.