Gee's 68 Mustang

[Gee]

More drag photos 

 

[Gee]

Had some spare time and thought 'should I look at the numerous power steering leaks that could cause a major problem later or the hood mounted indicator that only I can see?' So Of course I did the easy job that didn't matter.

Bulb was ok and there is only one wire so must be an earth through the case. No continuity through the bulb holder to the -ve terminal.

Not earthed through much

Cleaned up the lens unit thingo and screws

Much better

Lights work, sweet.

[Gee]

Got some fuel line insulation from Supercheap (not cheap) and chucked it over my braided line. Hopefully it will help reduce percolation in traffic.

Comes as a 1m length, luckily that is more than I needed.

The original setup is quite tidy and looks nice but it does sit in the hot engine valley, taking the longest path possible from the pump, due to the carb inlet location, and could add heat to the fuel at low fuel flows. That's the theory anyway.

The insulation is fibreglass covered in silicone (I think) and should keep things cooler. I also have a 1/4" phenolic spacer coming which should isolate the carb base and prevent heat transfer that way. That will be the next job.

[Gee]

Decided to have a quick look at why the rear windows don't go down. Started by pulling out the seats and then side trim

The previous owner really liked house insulation, not sure if it is achieving much

The side panels are actually metal. Mustang guys probably knew that but news to me. I can see why you'd insulate it but dynomat or similar would be better. Later project.

Can see how the window system bolts in and also (badly focused) the inertia reel. What you can't see is the rollers on the bell crank came off the fixed and moving sliders.

Still can't see it here but it was wedged at the top behind the inertia reel. I think the belts were probably fixed and inertia reels added and there may be an interference problem but getting the rollers back on proved to be a bitch. I got one back on the window but not the fixed slider and then removed the roller to see if I could set that first and probably made things worse. I probably need new rollers and to actually remove the system and clean it all up. I could then also clean up the red stuff inside the panel while I'm at it and cavity wax it all. I think there will need to be a take two.

Did manage to slide the window down by hand though. Secure as.

[Gee]

Made it to Kumeu on Sunday. Light turnout compared to Saturday but did manage to find the Mustang's older brother.

[Gee]

Finally got my carb spacer from summit, it got caught in customs. Not sure why, I didn't get charged anything so maybe just adding FAF.

Good chance to check out my performer clone intake. I was lazy and didn't disconnect the carb, just unbolted it and moved it to the side.

Spacer kit comes with studs, used the locknut method to screw them in and did them up to 5 wrist pounds

Finished product. 1/4" extra height which fits under the bonnet with about 1/2" to spare with the current air cleaner height. Hopefully this keeps the carb a bit cooler and maybe might add a tad more airspeed and the 1 extra HP will make all the difference. Not much I can do about ambient air temp so that will always be hot on a hot day in traffic.

[Gee]

FUCK!

Backed the Mustang into the garage to make it easier to work on the front end and hit the bench like a bellend. Claim lodged, if anyone asks my paint was pristine show winning condition.

[Gee]

First step, jack your car...

These items were leaking from everywhere so need to come out.

Had to buy a tool for the steering arm, hit it with a hammer and off she comes

The ram was a bit stubborn, hammer didn't work had to use heat. Lucky didn't need to move up to a torch

The lines get too much heat. From the header I think, not the hot air gun, I'm not that gash.

All the tools required because Ford.

Need to take it in to a power steering specialist now, I'll hopefully get new seals, lines, and bushes. I might replace some other steering and suspension bushes while it is up in the air.

[Gee]

Got my new steering components delivered recently, recon control valve, ram, and lines. the valve and ram went in ok...

bit of an issue with the lines...

Hard to get a good view but I don't see how these are ever going to fit. The pipe is longer and hose shorter than the original and they are not clocked correctly to line up. Look ok in the last photo but almost impossible to plug in. need to double check I'm connecting them the right way around too but that is not the main problem at the moment. Open to any suggestions.

[Gee]

Got my lines shortened thanks to Waitamata Hydraulics and had another go at the power steering. The new ram lines were not going to work so I refitted the old lines, easy as.

Fitted some heat sheathing as the old lines got scorched on the headers

And fitted, ish. Did I mention I hate flared fittings? They can be a prick to start. Much swearing was required to get them fitted.

Aaaaand fail 

Better on this side

The lines hit the headers at full left lock and are close to the frame at full right. No wonder they got scorched. In theory I should be able to manipulate them out of the way as the hard lines off the power valve are the same but I need a break before I lose my shit and throw a tool.

[Gee]

Before diving back into the steering I thought I'd revert to what I know, wiring. The temp and oil pressure gauges are dodgy, they may work but I can't really tell. The terminals looked shite so I replaced them

I decided the Random bracket on the engine mount that does nothing was getting in the way of the power steering lines

Now gone

Dunno what that did but the car is not lighter and more efficient. It freed up enough space to lower the lines a bit below the headers and with some manipulation I managed to realign the hard lines off the power valve. Add a zip tie and now I have more clearance.

I think the pressure line is still a bit long and hits the header at the bottom on full lock but the heat sheath will save it for a while. There are also a few leaks and the lines from the power valve to the ram still need to be replaced but I might take it in to a pro to check everything and do an alignment once finished. I also need to replace the trans shifter seal so I might get that done at the same time. Lucky I live pretty close to the shop.

[Gee]

So I think I had the valve to ram lines backwards, see pictures below. when I went to remove them again I found one line quite loose as it is hard to tighten up. Found my leak.

Original                                                                                                                                          Wrong!

Once this was fixed I filled it back up and ran it back and forth on the stands to bleed it. Not sure if I've done a good job there but it will get me in to the shop. I still have a slow leak from the valve. Hopefully it is just my shit old lines or a cracked flare and not the housing. These are such a prick to do up it is possible to damage the housing by over tightening or cross threading. The feed and return lines still hit the headers and frame but only minor. Again it will get me to the shop. Will require a lot of dicking around to fix and from some googling it seems to be a common problem once you fit long tube headers. A set of shorties would probably fix the problem and not really cost me much on this engine but that is more cash I don't want to spend yet.

hopefully I can get the lines sorted and get back to rolling.

 

[Gee]

New lines fitted, seems dry now.

Need a wheel alignment now. Need new rear tyres anyway so will get that done at the same time. They also said I had an exhaust leak from the left header gasket, sound familiar anyone? Might need to have that off and replace the gasket and fire on some gasket goo. I'm tempted to fit some flex joints behind the headers as well since they are solid welded all the way back. No flanges anywhere.

[Gee]

Took the Mustang to Alpine Panelbeaters to assess the scratch on the rear quarter. Can't vouch for their work yet but seem like good people. Had a nice Challenger fully stripped and a couple of other interesting cars. Will have to re raise my claim with AA Classic. Sounds like they will have to repain the whole back half of the car so am getting a quote for repairing all the other issues first. Hope I can swing that with the insurance.

Had a brief look at the headers too. Easy to see how they could leak, the flange is almost like a collar holding the pipes in rather than a flat flange. Will also be interesting to see if I could even get them off with the whole system being rigid.

[Gee]

Got some new tyres to match replace the old cracked and damaged Firestones. Got Nankang 235/60R14's, down one size from the old tyres and matching the front. These ones should pass a warrant.

Hope the warrant guy doesn't check too hard, I think the power steering lines are still leaking and there might still be a header leak. See how I go.

[Gee]

Incredibly it got a warrant, just a warning for slight play in the left front hub.

 

Still pissing the bed though...

Slight seep from the power steering lines still and big leak from the shifter housing on the trans. Both of these were supposed to be fixed but I'll have to try again.

[Gee]

The remote boot release stopped working...

The cable not being connected might be why. Terrible photo but the cable broke off the latch. Might need a new latch to fix as i can't get inside the latch to rig something up.

In other news, the trans shifter shaft was the cause of the massive puddle of fluid under the car. It is worn so the new seal worked worse than the one that was replaced. Western Auto Electrical got a new (tighter) seal from the Gearbox Factory guys and that has hopefully fixed the problem for now. Eventually I'd like an overdrive and talking to the GB Factory they suggested a TH700. going to be spendy though and the C4 works fine for now so I'll be waiting till I need to pull the trans.

 

[Gee]

Started pulling a few things out prior to taking it to the tin basher for the panel and paint repairs. I took out the rear seat, parcel tray, and trunk divider as both were just cardboard and shit. A previous owner loved his pink batts, not sure if they were doing much but it's in the bin now. I kept the parcel tray for now just in case my new one is too thick but hopefully I'll ditch it.

Also took out the speakers but I may just end up putting them back minus the grills. I made new panels from 9mm MDF. The parcel tray will get covered in black vinyl that I have left over from doing the same on my Fairmont. I may put some speaker mesh on the tray itself rather than the ugly grills although I will lose a bit of the 90's 6x9's bro look.

I'll get some proper underlay for both I think.

Next I took out the sail panels, more pink stuff here too. I don't know the sound isolation properties of Pink Batts but since there is a lot of tin resonating I doubt it did much.

Got a good look at the seat belts. I'm not sure if the car came with lap sash belts but I'm pretty sure the inertial reel is after market. Bit sneaky it hasn't been certed but looks pretty legit. Only problem is it blocks the window mech so will need tweaking so the window goes down.

Took the window out so I can service it and get it working. It is actually really smooth so should work ok if not contacting the belt reel. Not sure how I'm going to get it all back in though, it is a bit fiddly.

Will give the cavity a good clean out, already got some crap body sealer and sand out. I can see why I have a bit of crud under the paint on the outside as there was a bunch of sediment between the inner guard and the outer sail panel. I may wait till the paint is done to finish the inside just in case he cuts anything out.

Looks pretty clean otherwise. Will give it some spray in sound deadener and fish oil once the paint is done.

[Gee]

Took out the other side quarter window as well.

 

They are a bit of a prick to get out and I'll have a fun time figuring out how they go back in. The right hand side window regulator didn't have any bushes so was never going to work. The inertia reel was also getting in the way so I tried spacing it out a bit but there is not much room before it hits the trim panel. The lock wouldn't reset either so I had a prick of a time getting the belt to come back out so it could be usable again.

There was a bit of sediment between the inner wheel arch and outer panel which is probably causing the bubbles I can see in the paint but otherwise it is pretty clean in here.

The car is now at the panel beaters getting the scratch in the rear and the issues with the pillars and rear wheel arches sorted. It will take a few weeks and then I'll have to put all this back in.

[Gee]

Got the report and pictures from the panel beaters:

Most of the paint cracking is loose filler over lead joins on front A’ pillars and rear quarter sail panel areas.

- Roof is good only some small dents with filler repairs.

- Gutters have heavy rust surface rust, which we have removed all old seam sealer and rust treated.

- LR quarter panel- Old panel pull holes were just filler filled, need dressing up and welding

- Lower front wheel arch needs rust repair

- Wheel arch needs a little hammer up to true up edge before re filler work.

- Rear lower panel area was heavily filled needs a hammer up before refinishing

- Quarter window corner needs weld up, stress crack area. Will need to remove window seal and channel out.

- Right Rear quarter- Front area need a hammer up before re filler work

- Rust repair lower front wheel arch area

- Old patch repair I recommend removing old patch in this area and replacing.

- Rear window area- Needs rear window removed due to rust in lower rear corners and seam area

SUMMARY: Apart from some findings that need attention, overall body is great for its age. The car has been stripped to bare metal at some stage, with just filler work over bare metal letting it down in areas.

Should be an easy fix and proceeding nicely. Going to hit the bank balance a bit more than I planned as the insurance is only paying for a blend not a respray but they will at least save me about $2k.