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Posted

Sorting out the wring from the alternator to the the original fuse box in the Holden and the second loom that controls the power train. I thought it was probably a good idea to put some sort of fusible link in reasonably close to the alternator, I'm worried about wiring getting cooked should it get too close to something very hot or a sharp edge. Would using an inline 80 or 100 Amp link for a high power stereo be OK. Some of these come in holders that would be really easy to mount and keep things tidy or is there a better way? 

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Posted

I spent some time looking yesterday. Narva sell 50 Amp circuit breakers, I'm thinking one for the powertrain, one for the main car loom and one for the headlights/wipers as they are going to be on their own relays using the original switches to switch relays.

Posted

My understanding is that circuit breakers trip a lot quicker and easier than fuses blow.

 So when you get a high instant peak load of current like when a fan turns on. It might trip a breaker but wont blow a fuse. Had some people using high amp circuit breakers tell me that theyre a bit of a pain. So stuck with fuses again as never had any trouble with last setup.

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Posted
7 hours ago, Roman said:

My understanding is that circuit breakers trip a lot quicker and easier than fuses blow.

 So when you get a high instant peak load of current like when a fan turns on. It might trip a breaker but wont blow a fuse. Had some people using high amp circuit breakers tell me that theyre a bit of a pain. So stuck with fuses again as never had any trouble with last setup.

That is a good point. I might just pass on the breaker and use a 100A fuse for the main and then some extra fuses for the the new stuff.

Posted

I run a breaker in my racecar as the battery is in the boot never had any issues with it and it will hold up to starting load (non gear reduction starter on a highly strung high comp 4 banger) . Most fuses have a trip curve of sorts to deal with peak loading vs constant overloading. 

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