Dell'orto Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 ^that. Can probably slacken the bracket off and get a couple of mm that way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Bit late now but don't suppose you looked through the output of both boxes? It probably just needs a persuasion tap from el hammeroso. Or is the support bearing slightly off? Only way I can see to get movement would be the shaft moving inside the bearing and we did try for a while to push it hard up against the gearbox with no luck. I'll have a mess around with my spare driveshaft though and see if I can coax any movement out of that. ^that. Can probably slacken the bracket off and get a couple of mm that way. The bracket locates on two pins on the side of the block so can't get any movement out there unfortunately! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Die grinder will take care of that 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 I had that same thing happen when I put that box in.Turned out to be an hard old seal that was cracked. Replaced the gearbox seal and it stopped leaking. The seal doesn't do its 'sealing' against the dust cover, there is about 10mm of flat shaft on the driveshaft before it drops down to the spline which it seals on so its location can be +/-2mm and it would still seal fine. If you are careful with getting the seal out of the one which was in the car you should be able to reuse it. If not get hold of corollaGT he will get you one fairly reasonably priced! Sucks about the synchros. Never had any issues with shifting and with my other cars these synchros seem to take quite a beating before they give up. Getting the master bled correctly can sometimes be tricky/time consuming if it has gulped some air. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Here is a seal showing the inner face it seals on (they cross hatched type looking one) - pic looks slightly exaggerated might be from an MR2 box but it looks pretty much the same And see the shoulder on the shaft here that it seals on (at bottom left of pic - sorry couldn't find a bigger one) To be sure of installed location of that shoulder you could take shaft out, measure to inner seal from hanger bearing mating face then measure corresponding shoulder length on shaft from same hanger bearing mating face. Another thing thats caught me out before is having an extra dowel on a box/block where it didn't have a hole for one. Meant the last 5mm never pulled up as it bottomed out on the dowel. That ended badly with suspected run bearings but I always check any new bellhousing now! something worth checking out anyway. There are two different hanger bearing brackets - one for auto and one for manual, although the auto ones are 4-6mm out of alignment and make it pretty near impossible to install the driveshaft unless you are being super rough with it. The one that was in the car was definitely a manual one so I wouldn't worry about it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 I had that same thing happen when I put that box in.Turned out to be an hard old seal that was cracked. Replaced the gearbox seal and it stopped leaking. The seal doesn't do its 'sealing' against the dust cover, there is about 10mm of flat shaft on the driveshaft before it drops down to the spline which it seals on so its location can be +/-2mm and it would still seal fine. If you are careful with getting the seal out of the one which was in the car you should be able to reuse it. If not get hold of corollaGT he will get you one fairly reasonably priced! Sucks about the synchros. Never had any issues with shifting and with my other cars these synchros seem to take quite a beating before they give up. Getting the master bled correctly can sometimes be tricky/time consuming if it has gulped some air. Cheers man, super helpful! Thought about swapping the seals because it did look a bit rough but didn't want to risk wrecking them when we took them out, hindsight is a bitch. Yea bit of a bugger really, I reckon having the heavy duty clutch probably didn't help things out. Pretty keen to get my hands on an LSD box and get someone to give me a hand rebuilding it, hopefully this box will hold up for a few events.. The gearbox seemed to mate up pretty well and there's definitely no gaps, good to be wary of in future though. Didn't manage to get that drivers side axle nut free either so going to be a bit of pain getting to the seal, tried electric rattle guns/breaker bars/heat guns/jack handles etc but nothing. If anyone in Christchurch has a decently powerful rattle gun that I could come round and try out for 2 mins let me know! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Rebuilding the gearbox is relatively easy especially if your only doing bearings. Pull the end cap off, take to gearbox shop and get them to pull reverse and 5th gear off the end of the shaft as they require very particular gear pullers to get them off without damaging them. Normally costs a few beers. Pull shifter linkages and mechanism out next (4x bolts where shifter shaft goes in). Pretty sure from here the casing can be split once you undo the one bolt on the front of the gearbox housing - someone correct me if I'm wrong but there's something funny about that one bolt iirc. Pretty easy to pull shafts out and press/pull bearings out of the housings. Can buy a lsd brand new from Toyota around $450 for a standard one or $1250 for a TRD plate type diff. (mark can confirm pricing) Bearings seem to be about $100/ea but Def worth replacing including diff bearings. Just remember to use feeler gauges to measure tolerances between gears/synchros before pulling apart so you don't put the gears back on too tight. You'll need to replace to circlip under 5th gear also when it goes back together these are a one use only circlip. Memory is a bit hazy been 5 years since I rebuilt my old c56. Found a manual online and gave it a go with no precious experience wasn't too hard at all. I highly recommend a TRD diff you won't regret it helps the handling of the car so much. Also Kaaz and cusco do similarly priced diffs too, Kaaz being slightly better quality imo but slightly more expensive too 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Oh easy was to get that shaft out is to undo balljoints bolts and swing strut out, splitting the inner cv on that drivers side. Half shaft will then come out easy as. Just need to repack cv with grease and make sure you get the band done up nice and tight which is easy with those Toyota clips on there or a good thick cable tie works fine for a certain amount of time also. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 If your still having issues with shifting the only other thing worth checking out is the clutch plate and make sure it's not cracked. Replacement plates are real cheap from Toyota and don't normally crack cause they are made by exedy but I have had it happen before with a shitty pbr clutch plate where it wasn't shifting right for a while before it finally decided to explode at manfield. Sorry for the wall of text. Hopefully some of it is helpful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted August 12, 2016 Author Share Posted August 12, 2016 If your still having issues with shifting the only other thing worth checking out is the clutch plate and make sure it's not cracked. Replacement plates are real cheap from Toyota and don't normally crack cause they are made by exedy but I have had it happen before with a shitty pbr clutch plate where it wasn't shifting right for a while before it finally decided to explode at manfield. Sorry for the wall of text. Hopefully some of it is helpful. Thanks man, will all be useful information at some point! Got a new seal and put it in last night, doesn't seem to be leaking but haven't had chance to drive it yet. When I drained the oil to put the new seal in there were a few shards of metal floating around though. Hopefully they didn't come about from the 5min drive I did otherwise I don't think this box is gonna last very long hah... Rebuild doesn't sound horrendous, I've found a pdf repair manual for a ZZT230 Celica which has a tear down of a C56. Looks like the shifter arrangement is slightly different but everything else looks about the same. That's pretty reasonable for a factory LSD, TRD is probably out of the budget for now but good to know. Keen to get this thing back and running at full strength ASAP so will probably just look at rebuilding one of the C56s without an LSD. What sort of work is it to just fit a new diff? Do you still pretty much have to pull the whole thing apart? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geophy Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Went to Waikato Toyota and they no long sell the TRD LSD diffs or factory LSD diffs they have been discontinued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Oh man that sucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 I'm enjoying you thread immensely. After 25 plus years of building and co-driving race cars it makes me want to stop running our currently overly complex high-tech sponsored car and get back to basics and start all over again. (What I'm really saying is your enthusiasm makes me feel bloody old! ). Watching the in car video's you're making some very obvious mistakes that result in your car controll being jerky & indecisive rather than the smooth but aggressive driving technique that makes a car run fast. I'm picking you've got great potential as a 'peddler' (your time at Levels confirms that) but you're at the stage when you need track time with an experienced person in the passenger seat teaching you the basics and pushing you very hard to be decisive, and in controll. If you were in Auckland I'd be volunteering my services, I'm by no means an expert but I have had the privilege of working beside some very experienced drivers over the years and can see how easy it would be to tweak your driving skills up to the next level. Try your local car cub or even just approach people on track day and ask them if they know of anyone who can come out for a few laps and give you some pointers. Look out for teams using track-days for car testing, you'll find most are approachable, (as you've probably already discovered petrol heads are a friendly bunch). Please don't take my post as being condescending, I'm just an old bugger with a bad habit of calling a spade a f***ing shovel. I'm also impressed with what you're doing. Cheers, Simon. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted August 30, 2016 Author Share Posted August 30, 2016 I'm enjoying you thread immensely. After 25 plus years of building and co-driving race cars it makes me want to stop running our currently overly complex high-tech sponsored car and get back to basics and start all over again. (What I'm really saying is your enthusiasm makes me feel bloody old! ). Watching the in car video's you're making some very obvious mistakes that result in your car controll being jerky & indecisive rather than the smooth but aggressive driving technique that makes a car run fast. I'm picking you've got great potential as a 'peddler' (your time at Levels confirms that) but you're at the stage when you need track time with an experienced person in the passenger seat teaching you the basics and pushing you very hard to be decisive, and in controll. If you were in Auckland I'd be volunteering my services, I'm by no means an expert but I have had the privilege of working beside some very experienced drivers over the years and can see how easy it would be to tweak your driving skills up to the next level. Try your local car cub or even just approach people on track day and ask them if they know of anyone who can come out for a few laps and give you some pointers. Look out for teams using track-days for car testing, you'll find most are approachable, (as you've probably already discovered petrol heads are a friendly bunch). Please don't take my post as being condescending, I'm just an old bugger with a bad habit of calling a spade a f***ing shovel. I'm also impressed with what you're doing. Cheers, Simon. Thanks man, great to hear! I've got no previous experience in racing so totally starting with the basics, have already learnt a hell of a lot in the short space of owning this car though! Totally agree with what you're saying, I'm literally relying on my 'experience' of hooning around backroads so I'm just trying to get clued on racing lines and braking points as I go. Good to hear there's some potential but I definitely agree some advice from a more experienced driver would go a long way. Would be great to have someone come out with me at a trackday but unfortunately I'm not allowed to take passengers without a cage. Have joined the Canterbury Car Club now so I'll have a yarn with some of the members and see if I can go out with someone at the end of an event when the track's empty, even just going for a lap in someone else's car would be pretty helpful. Cheers for the input, great motivation to get it back on the track! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Threw a few parts at it. New fuel filter, ignition coil, iridium spark pugs and a wiper motor. Pulled all the wiper linkage out and most of the joints were pretty stiff which is probably burnt out the old motor, re-greased them all and its like having new wipers! Also the new seal fixed the gearbox leak which is good so I can actually drive it. Have started dissembling the gearbox I pulled out of it, got to this point where I need to pull off the 5th gear thingamabob (top of the right hand side shaft): Tried my own gear puller but it seemed like it was going break it so stopped, manual shows a puller that hooks to the inside of it but there's no grooves to use a puller like they show (it's for a C56 from a much newer Celica so probably something was added later). Anyway figured a gearbox shop would be able to do it pretty easily for a few beers... Tried four different gearbox shops 2 only did automatics and didn't have the gear, some faarrkkking grumpy old cunt at the third one complained about how hard of a job it would be, would be at least an hours labour and couldn't even look at it this week. They're the only place in Christchurch that do manual gearboxes too not that I'd ever take anything there given how difficult they were and what I've heard about them. Fourth place mainly did automatics but said I'd be best to heat it with an oxy torch, wedge something under it and smash the shaft with a copper hammer. Don't have either of those but said he could have a go so with it so have left it with him, hopefully it comes off in one piece... Also unfortunately that noise I thought the gearbox was making in 2nd gear appears to be in all the gears and even with the clutch in so we think it's engine related though not entirely sure...Drained the oil and there's a few small bits of metal nothing huge though, cut open the filter and it's the same story. Still runs and pulls fine though, suspect it could be ring related? Doesn't sound like it's coming from the bottom end but also doesn't smoke either, might check the compression when I get my hands on a tester? Going to focus on getting this gearbox rebuilt anyway and if it gets any worse will investigate further...fun times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Release bearing? Think you are looking too far into it. If it had run bearings you'd know about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Release bearing? Think you are looking too far into it. If it had run bearings you'd know about it. Nah don't think so, having the clutch in or out doesn't seem to make a difference. Motor is otherwise fine so no idea what's causing it, I'll try chuck up a video sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Check the backing plate behind the clutch. Could be touching the flywheel if not located on the studs properly. Also check if you've had the clutch out that the clutch plate isn't backwards. Both of these issues will have the symptoms you described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Got a Clubsport licence sorted just in time for the twilight dual car sprint at Ruapuna last weekend. Took it for a wheel alignment on the Friday, was miles out as expected because we pulled most of the front end apart doing the gearbox. The car actually went really well to my surprise. The synchros in the new gearbox are mint, no crunches whatsoever. I was a bit worried because it usually crunches going into reverse and with the bits of metal that came out when I first drained the oil, stoked though! No hurry to rebuild the old gearbox now so I'll probably hold out until I can get my hands on an LSD. Dual car sprint was awesome, did the last track at about 7.30pm so it was pretty dark. So sketchy not being able to see the corner until you're turning into it, most cars were running spot lights and light bars so think I did well with shitty 90s clouded over headlights. Sweet photo from the day: The noise is still there, seems to be some kind of vibration. Happens with clutch in or out, comes on about 6500 upwards and seems to go away on reasonably hard left turns? Got me stumped. Have pulled all the drive belts off and ran it without them so it's nothing idler or alternator etc related. Also didn't touch the clutch when we pulled swapped gearboxes. The left turns makes me think it's axle/shaft related but it still happens at a stand still in neutral, hmmm... Only problem for the day was some wiring on the first run, when things were getting quite bumpy on the track it would shudder and the revs would suddenly drop. Checked all the earths and no issues there, turned out to be one of the wires running to the ignition coil. Has been repaired at some point and going over bumps the weight of the loom would pull on it and cut the power to it. Did a temp fix by taping it to the strut bar which thankfully lasted the whole day. Figured I'd fix it properly so bought a soldering iron and then whipped down to Pickapart and grabbed another random plug from a Toyota. Pulled the plug apart, swapped the new section of wire into it then soldered the new to the old and shrink wrapped it, sorted! Also scored a 3 piece front lip from a ST160 Corona Coupe while I was at Pickapart, going to try and modify it to fit the Levin. Not sure if it's the right style though, would definitely suit a more boxy 80s ride so may just flick it off for some moolah. Anyone got an AE101 lip they want to swap? Haha. Been looking for ages but they're super uncommon. Going to be needing some new tyres soon, looking at $1200-1300 for a set of these same Nitto NT01s, ouch. Anyone got tyre hookups in Christchurch? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Sounds like the symptoms of an exhaust rubbing on something. Check that both centre hangars are still in place they have a habit of melting. Last ones I got were a bit slimmer from supercheap. Other thing to check would be a cracked header or the primary to secondary flange. I always use 300degree silicone in healthy doses to seal up that flange. Needs doing every so often if you race it a bit. Also throws oxy sensor out a bit so will be running rich and popping and blowing flames a bit. Stink bout the wiring loom. Thought we fixed all the damaged plugs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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