mutiny Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 So about a week Ago the 1g in my gx60 started running shit when it's cold. Was fine up until then. Have since replaced leads and plugs which did not help. Fuel filter was replaced about a month Ago and made trip from Welly to chch no problems. Anyone get any ideas as to what it could be? Is only when it's cold. Starts fine but when ya put ya foot down in bogs out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Cold start injector circuit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Yeah sounds like cold start injector not getting power cause the thermoswitch has fucked out. Give it a 12v feed from somewhere and take it for a drive to see if it fixes the problem. Iv got a repair manual for a 1GE so could scan a few pages/have a look at the troubleshooting for the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 if you could man that would be awesome/ dont suppose you wanna sell it? dont have internet at home at the moment so makes shit hard will try running 12v to cold start this weekend, problem is theres only a short gap to try sort it before it gets up to temp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Nah dont wana sell it as its hens teeth spec and covers 1gge too which is what i grabbed it for. Google toyota start injector time switch, should come up with a diagram showing how the wiring goes for them. Probably the temp sensor has crapped out so its not switching the injector on when cold/always on, is it using more gas than usual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 yeah im pretty sure it is, will a injector switch off something else work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Probably the same thru most EFI toyotas of the era as they all seemed to run the same cold start setup but they are probably buggered too. Best bet would be getting the parts # off the sensor and getting one thru the guy who works for TNZ and is on Toyspeed. He should be able to give you a good price on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 There's a manual online you could print I'll find it, runs through the process of testing it in a nice logical fashion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 so ive tested my switch, getting 35 cold and 75 hot which is within spec(below 10 degrees 30-50 and above 25degrees 70-90). so next i guess is so test the injector Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE25 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 that cold start injector is only helpful if its freakin cold. otherwise the engine should start up fine without it. It only runs for 5 seconds anyway. The brown sensor is the timer for the cold start injector. A problem can occur if the injector is leaking and constantly over fuelling which makes starting and idling difficult, especially when warm. ryan fels had this happen to his gx61 1geu. Bogging only when cold could indicate a lean condition. this could be caused by an afm adjusted wrong or sticking. You may have an air leak between the afm and the engine like loose hose clamp or split pipe. The temp sensor could be reading wrong. So yah, check those. take the air filter off and put your hand up the afm and check that the afm flap moves smoothly. Test the green temp sensor which is crutial for the ecu operation. You should have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust if its 1geu.. you could check if it's running lean or rich to help diagnose the issue. This can be done with a multimeter on the VF wire of diagnostic plug. using the workshop manual will come in handy here. If the engine has high k's then a compression test wouldn't hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 how can i check to see if cold start injector is leaking? isnt really to hard to start and idles fine. just bogs down when i take off and its only in cold temp. will check the other things. has no o2 sensor as its 1ge nz new. have a compression tester so will test that this weekend, cars done 160tho ks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 no leaks in piping between afm and intake. afm moves nicely, im stumped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 been looking in 1g engine manual and under touruble shooting/engine hesitates/poor acceleration one of the possible causes is this "emission control system problem when cold engine(1g-e engine only). Remedy check spark control system" anyone got any ideas what theyre talkin about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE25 Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 if it idles fine then it wont be cold start injector. to see if it leaks, pull it out of the plenum (don't start engine whatever you do lol). get the fuel pump running by either turning the key to ON and pushing the afm flap open or bridging the pump check plug (2pin plug in loom leading up to the afm usually). with the pump running there will be fuel pressure at the injector. if it leaks it'll drip, or gush. They may be referring to the double diaghragm on the dizzy. not sure if nz version has it? If it's anything like the other 80's toyota engines with mechanical/vaccum advance the 2nd diaphragm operates when engine is cold to give extra spark advance. it'll have a vacuum hose running via a tvsv (thermostatic vacuum switching valve) in the thermostat housing usually. (i dont have a 1geu in front of me to see where it is) then to the plenum. basically the tvsv is open when it's cold and allows plenum vacuum to suck the spark advance further on low load situations. Cold unvapourised fuel doesnt burn as well so extra advance can be added to have peak combustion pressure at the right time. You may also have a gummy injector. have you run some injector cleaner through it ever? Have you checked the engine and ecu earth points? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted May 14, 2014 Author Share Posted May 14, 2014 alright will look into the above this weekend. and yeah i ran some injector cleaner through it about a month before this all started Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 so at this stage it seems like it was a bad engine earth, fuckin crazy many thanks to ae25 your help was awesome dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Hah. That would make sense. Always the one thing that gets over looked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 yeah for sure, its amazing what a bad earth can achieve aye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE25 Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Heh. Yea first question is 'have you got gas'. Always the simple things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 earth fixed it for awhile, problem came back, new battery installed and havnt had a problem since Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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