Guest ta63-1uzze Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 a good scope of the ignition coil power feed will tell you if the ignition is the fault for the miss. You can tell if the coil is faulty by the build-up time on the scope pattern, also the length of the pattern will tell you if the leads and plugs are good too. Is it a hard misfire?? Like gets to a certain rpm and then just kicks or drops? , or like a stutter but you can rev through it? Worse when cold or hot? I would love to see some oscilloscope patterns of the ignition coil , and the map sensor under load and varying rpm, and the air intake temp sensor. These would greatly help in diagnosing the fault. I recommend going to anyone that is in the “YESS Group” this is a collection of people that use oscilloscopes every day. and have some of the best technicians who all help each other via the internet, it is much like a forum but its not open to the public. Its for technicians by technicians , I have been involved with this at work and in previous employment, and they are the bees knees. I don’t have access to it at the moment unfortunately but if you tell me your area I can have a look to see if there is someone local to you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ta63-1uzze Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 this is what it looks like, http://www.autospeed.com/cms/gallery/article.html?slideshow=0&a=109871&i=3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Yup, I always check out the tech section in the MTA mag, which covers various issues that are solved by the AECS people with their fancy scopes, I find it quite interesting. The symptoms now are a choppy idle, and smells fairly rich (though I'm out of the loop with rotaries, so it might be normal) then its fairly stuttery the whole way through. Haven't been game enough to give it a full rev out, as it just never feels right - Warren did say it was knocking on the dyno too, which is pretty odd. It idles quite high too, around 1500rpm, though since I changed the coolant temp sensor I've driven it sub 10k's, so probably not had it at full operating temperature. If you've got some suggestions for the Hutt Valley/Wellington area I'd love to hear them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 It turned out that when the car had been rebuilt, the Air intake temp sensor and oil temp sensors (or similiar sensors) were plugged into each other's ECU plug. Could it be that simple? Do you mean plugs at the sensor end swapped over? I would hope PPRE knew enough to make sure that was right! Air temp sensor plug is similar to the coolant temp, but they're probably too far apart to interchange. I know there are a few plugs under the upper inlet manifold which are similarish, but don't know how easy it would be to cock them up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Evan Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Ive spent the last couple of weeks playing around with my wiring from my JC block and doing some reading. RE: the bouncing idle, is the BAC valve plugged in right/dirty? its the unit under the upper manifold beside the Throttle Position Sensor and can apparently make the idle do all kinds of things if its shitty(Im assuming the FD is super similar to the JC as ive been using FD wiring diagrams and they are practically identical, also is the TPS reading correctly?) the Knock sensor not doing its job? is it plugged in/plugged into the right thing (off the top of my head theres a similar plug in the vicinity?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Its not bouncing, its just choppy - like a big extend port kind of idle. Again, I would certainly hope PPRE set the TPS up! Knock sensor could be iffy, the retard who built the engine put the rotor housings back to front, and instead of undoing the knock sensor and screwing it into the front housing they cut and joined the wire to make it reach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Evan Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 the retard who built the engine put the rotor housings back to front, thats your problem, the housings have to be the right way around to align the air passages to use the factory air control valve operation. (or something like that Im trying to find the shit I read about it last week) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BZG-Bling Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Back to front..... not a good start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 thats your problem, the housings have to be the right way around to align the air passages to use the factory air control valve operation. (or something like that Im trying to find the shit I read about it last week) Everyone i've spoken to said its not an issue, there are only minor differences between rotor housings. I don't think there even are any air passages in them?? Back to front..... not a good start! No, and once I realised that I knew it was going to be due a rebuild sooner rather than later....if he could fuck something up as basic as that, what as did he do wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Evan Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Its not an issue if your not running the the factory emission setup. Im not to clued up on how it works but theres passages tied up with the intake manifolds or something swapping the housings around blocks these passages, this will be why you aren't getting any fault signals.. google it/ search on Ausrotary for more (better) info either pull it apart and swap the housings back over or run a stand alone ecu and bin the emission gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 I'm not convinced TBH...but will investigate. I'll check RX7club too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SHGWAG Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Do you mean plugs at the sensor end swapped over? I would hope PPRE knew enough to make sure that was right! Air temp sensor plug is similar to the coolant temp, but they're probably too far apart to interchange. I know there are a few plugs under the upper inlet manifold which are similarish, but don't know how easy it would be to cock them up Correct, as the plugs are identicle and there's no way for you to tell the difference without tracing the wires back to the pins in the ECU. So it cuts out as soon as you hit any sign of boost? Mine did this, I could get around it by resetting the ECU, and it would work fine for a bit, then go back to not boosting. Never found out what caused the fault. Idling high and rough is what Dan's did before we swapped those plugs back over. In saying that, mine also idled high and rough when I had a chipped apex seal and gouged rear housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kyteler Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Golly, what a hassle for something so modern. I hate taking a car somewhere and them being unable to fix or even guess at what's wrong. Best you gift it to me. Swaps for R30. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SHGWAG Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Don't do it Michael, once you're in, you'll never get out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kyteler Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Nah, I'm not used to a car with any kind of usable power, likely I'd kill myself before too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Correct, as the plugs are identicle and there's no way for you to tell the difference without tracing the wires back to the pins in the ECU. So it cuts out as soon as you hit any sign of boost? Mine did this, I could get around it by resetting the ECU, and it would work fine for a bit, then go back to not boosting. Never found out what caused the fault. Idling high and rough is what Dan's did before we swapped those plugs back over. In saying that, mine also idled high and rough when I had a chipped apex seal and gouged rear housing. No it makes boost fine, but increased load makes it miss. Its not a harsh miss at all, just really stuttery. I would not at all be surprised if the retard who built it fucked a seal on installation Golly, what a hassle for something so modern. I hate taking a car somewhere and them being unable to fix or even guess at what's wrong. Best you gift it to me. Swaps for R30. Modern cars are the devil, old ones are much easier to fix...if you can find the bits for them. Also k33n, giz R30 now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kyteler Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Sweet, I'll pop by on my way back from Auckland, after nats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dell'orto Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Excellent. By the way, we keep our engines, k? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fryup Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Fairly cheap setup if you don't mind chinese stuff? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/auction-580790627.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sr1600 Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 I presume coils have been tested They tend to suffer from heat-stroke with age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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