Jump to content

Dell'orto's unreliable modern piece


Dell'orto

Recommended Posts

Guest Dell'orto

Fairly cheap setup if you don't mind chinese stuff?

http://www.trademe.c...n-580790627.htm

Nah unkeen. I like to do things properly, it'll be a ball bearing style turbo I'd likely go with in the end anyway. 238kw isn't that much better than what the stock twins can do!

I presume coils have been tested

They tend to suffer from heat-stroke with age.

Certainly have been

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest SHGWAG

Nah unkeen. I like to do things properly, it'll be a ball bearing style turbo I'd likely go with in the end anyway. 238kw isn't ANY better than what the stock twins can do!

D-Tech has gotten 240 wheel kw out of the stock s8 twins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

So earlier this week, by chance I was scanning TradeMe for Apexi stuff (just to see what was out there) and came across a Series 7 specific Power FC for $650! I got in touch with the seller, and as I was heading to Auckland for the Tool concert took the opportunity to take a slight detour to Tauranga on the way home to collect it.

Plugged it in today after working out the terribly complex install (I had to undo 3 bolts!) and turned the key.

Straight away, I noticed the idle was substantially better - it used to be quite choppy, and always smelt insanely rich (Even though PPRE said it wasn't) but now was quite steady and smelt much more normal. I let it warm up, and took it for a drive. Two things stuck out though, the idle was still sitting at 1500rpm, and the water temp read out took forever to rise.

Took it for a drive around our suburb, and its night and day! The car now revs cleanly, and at around 3000rpm has a solid punch.I forgot how tall geared FD's are, I was easily able to exceed the open road limit in 3rd...not good in my suburb! However it would still misfire when it made .6kg/mm above 4000rpm.

Mentioned to Lith that the water temp was still really quite low for a 5k drive and about 10 minutes of idling, and he said it sounded more like air temperature. Eureka moment! Went back to the car, and selected air temp and coolant temp read outs, and I think we've found the problem...after sitting for 5 minutes both the air temp and coolant temps were sitting at 68 degrees. As soon as I started the car up, the coolant temp started dropping! A quick drive now found the car was pulling much better, but as I drove the coolant temp dropped and the car started to misfire again. Funnily enough, air temps stayed around the 50 degree mark :lol:

Will see if I can swap the plugs over tomorrow, fingers crossed its just that simple!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.

A good friend of mine's was running super rich / pulsing at idle after the previously owner had it rebuilt.

He had it apart many times trying to find a fault.

It turned out that when the car had been rebuilt, the Air intake temp sensor and oil temp sensors (or similiar sensors) were plugged into each other's ECU plug. Could it be that simple?

shgwag was right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well here is where we say WTF Mazda. For those who didn't believe me about them using the same plug, here is the fuel temp (gray) and the coolant temp plug (green)

plugs.jpg

Not only that, but the IAT and a couple of other sensors also use the same type.

Now I did some reading last night on wiring diagrams, and found the IAT and coolant temp sensor have nearly identical wiring...both have a brown with a black trace, the IAT has a green wire and the ECT has green with a white trace. I pulled the upper intake manifold off and checked - they had the correct wires. Bugger!

However when I went to pull the ECT plug off the sensor I noticed it was a new plug - the original was pretty broken, so PPRE must have replaced it. I pulled the insulation tape off and voila - the wires were not br/b + g/y after all!

Looked at the fuel sensor and there we go. Swapped the two over (easily reached, especially with the extra lenght on the new ECT plug) and reassembled it. Fired it up and finally it idles right! Once the coolant temp reached 80 degrees (which it finally could!) the idle dropped to 950rpm

So. Much. Win

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

However thats about where the good times ended. Took it for a drive, and it was going great, making all the right noises and generally being quite fun to drive.

Then I went and got some gas (only 95 in this hick town) and headed out to lower hutt to get some 98. Gave it a bit of a boot on the motor to catch up to traffic, then about a minute after that the car stopped running :cry:

Last log didn't look too bad, aside from possibly the timing

boost.jpg

So yeah, gonna see if I can compression test it tomorrow and go from there. If its blown the engine then I might sell the sedan and build a decent one for it. Or sell both of them and give up on cars altogether.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Won't start at all...I'm not 100% sure that its blown, as its pretty rare to do both rotors. I did find when cranking it over if I kept my foot flat it would semi run at about 500rpm, but would die as soon as I took my foot off the gas.

I did manage to get it running by adding more fuel at cranking, but it died as soon as the motor got any load. When I did get it running it was rough as all fuck and blowing smoke, and pretty sure it was blue smoke too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it still oil injected? or do you run it on pre mix? Were you give it hell or just cruising when it stopped (or giving it hell at all)? The hard to start and run and blue smoke isn't good though mate....

Good news is I'm no expert!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOLs, so it was the plugs.

 

And now this.

 

If you've spat an Apex seal, the car will still run on 1.3 rotors (been there, done that.)

 

Does this thing still have the factory cat?

Exactly what were you doing when it cut out?

 

Do a compression test but it doesn't sound like the block has given up.

 

I'd be checking fuel, then spark / timing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...