mk2 gt Posted December 14, 2012 Author Share Posted December 14, 2012 only bought the parts to help stop the fuel spitting out the vents as a couple of the needles were touch and go, shaneo i might hit you up for the carb balancer in the new year once i sort the over fueling issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneo Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Mine used to spit raw fuel out of number 2 and 3 until we got them balanced right . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 set the idle to about 1000 then using the little adjusters on the linkages between each carb balance 1-2 then 3-4 then 2-3 pays to have your own rig as balancing is part of general servicing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 gt Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 fuel leak fixed! runs a bit funny but didnt warm her right up will have a crack at balancing them in the new year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 To get them good enough to run, just use a bit of garden hose and your ear, takes about 5 mins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 gt Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 i dont have vacuum points on each runner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 No but you can listen to each throat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 gt Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 ah ok will give it ago i can get my hand on a gauge i can stick on the end of each carb and adjust to suit similar to this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 No, just stick the end of the pipe down the throat of each carb, listen, turn screws and make them all sound the same. Easy peasy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 aslong as the carbs have never been separated from the rails then they should still be within the tolerances of pipe in ear spec tuning, you can use one of those guages but getting it crack on takes 240895240897 times longer. best just to drill and tap the manifold for some nipples Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mjrstar Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 On a similar topic, I have a set of fireblade carbs which i have split off and intend to run a pair on my mini.. the have been tinkered with and i may not have all the linkage / piework when i got them.. they appear to have 2 fuel ports on each carb, is there a return circuit or what? Also is the choke mechanisim the sideways runner which pulls a little plunger out on each carb?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ned Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 On my carbs, the sideways moving guy is the choke, so probably the same? the return of my carbs is just a little spout/nipple from the top of the fuel bowl. Bikes just dump it on the ground. I'm a bit worried about it myself as the zorst is there as it's a K series and non x-flox... Keen to help me ballance them carbs when i get them mounted up shaneo? or just lend me your kit and i'll wing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest phatt20 Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 pics would proly help re; the fuel ports, the sideways plunger will be the choke yep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mjrstar Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Will try and get some snaps tonight.. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ned Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mjrstar Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 aah sweet - cheers ned So does red = breather?? (judging by hose type and shitty clamps) Assuming blue is fuel in? yellow plug will be TPS? green... er.... plumbed to airbox? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bubblegoose Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 yes to all of those above. red is best left open to atmosphere, they do not have a fuel 'return' mearly an over flow so if its dumping it to the ground your floats are set incorrectly or your fuel pressure is too high/you will burn a fiery death the 2 fuel fittings you have on your carbs are both inlet and out let, the fuel flows though the carbs to the next one in the line till they are all full etc etc so you can plumb both to fuel in, run them in line or plumb to one and block the other Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest retep130 Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 rot808's arent joined, they are more like 2 pairs of carbs that big line in the middle normally goes to the airbox I think, on R1 carbs I joined mine together to slow down the fluttering of the slides, in that case you could probably just block them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bubblegoose Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 the red hose should be the atmosphere reference for below the diaphragm (above is vaccuum) you can control the speed the slides lift and return by adjusting the hole size, normally plumbing both outlets into one 8mm hole is enough for most cars. completely blocking them can cause the slides to not open properly. the big hose in the middle shouldn't have much effect on the slide operation if any so im a little confused how this fixed your issue (or did i read that wrong) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest retep130 Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 im 90% sure you are getting the red hose and the green hoses confused, red hose has got to be fuel overflow. I think green hose connects to all areas above diaphragms. pretty sure we are thinking the same thing but just confused with hoses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.