Mr Currie Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Jibber jabber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Need anything for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Currie Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 Could do in a bit but right now I have to get it all painted up before I start the assembly. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 That your AE? looks similiar to my mates old car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Hey man, it is a steal at the price you got it man. what is the boost you running for the 4agte? what turbo is it? also power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Currie Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Yea, i just picked it up last Wed, dude I got it off had 3 including that one! I havent got it up and running yet. Need to get it wired up and will prob need a new ecu or piggy back the existing 4AGE ecu, still learning about that stuff haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Currie Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 On the turbo it says Garret a/r60 M24 G1-1. I will start a new build thread for it too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 this should help alot, it's a bit of a bible but if you make it to the end of the document you'll get it. http://www.raceglides.com.au/files/four ... r-tips.pdf so will this, pretty simple nice and easy http://www.jascoautomotive.com/4linkrearsuspension.htm I've been looking into suspension design alot, here is another option ... you can do the watts linkage under the diff, as long as it's central and the pivot points work and the data sheet on it if you feel like replicating it .. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/dow ... DS_WEB.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Currie Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 Thanks alot mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 your welcome mate; i've no idea what the appropriate thickness of plate is for the mounts on the shell and diff, I think 2mm might be ok for some parts of the construction but, I'd guess 4mm is about right, but I know 6mm is over kill. when you find out can you let me know haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 got any pics/details on the s4 subframe swap? Ive heard they line up pretty close, only need a couple of new holes drilled or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Currie Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 Yea you can bolt the front ones right in and drill the rear, but its not centre. I did what this guy did and extended the subframe front holes an inch forward. But im thinking about just welding the subframe onto the chassis so its nice and strong. Heres some links on it: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=967834 http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=695029 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 that a series 1 diff in the back? what brake set up you got on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Currie Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 its a B1600 diff off a rally car, its a pretty h-core LSD setup. I have 4pot fronts and will have 2 pot rears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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