BlownCorona Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 just got out there today to seriously get into it. and found im getting no spark. im not 100% sure the rotor i have is for a 20v as i was told it could be a 3sge one. is there anyway to check what the rotor part number should be or if im getting 'spark' at the rotor. compression seems great since it fired the rags i forgot were in the spark plug holes about 10m in the air when i spun it up. no idea how to check fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 It should be fairly obvious if the rotor is contacting the cap, just check with a multimeter So you got the starter sorted properly? Its not necesarry to check fuel, its just one of those things I'd like to check after something has been sitting, as it could easily have a blocked filter or fucked reg. High pressure fuel gauge is how you do it. You can also use a LED or a decent meter to check if injectors are being fired by the ECU, but I wouldnt worry about that just yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 havnt got the starter sorted, got on it with a multi meter and it looks like theres no signal coming in from the key, its been missing some fueses so i just went into work to get some incase for some weird reason it runs through one of them, while i was there tried to find a part number for the silvertop rotor, couldnt really find any parts for it at all, but had a look on toyodiy.com and the rotor is the same for the silvertop and the 3sge so i dont know :/ ill go check if its contacting with a multimeter and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 fuses made no difference to the cranking issue, although did fix many other things as expected. but it looks like theres no contact between the rotor and the distributor cap. is this a sign that the cap is worn out? or something else is quite wrong? anyone got a silvertop distributor cap? i was having trouble locating a part number at work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 So you have pulled the coil lead and checked it has a solid spark? I thought this thing ran before hand? unless it has corroded badly while sitting the rotor should be ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fulloc Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 xd3005 excel gd829 bosch Should be the part numbers for the cap and rotor, you can get from dasko in silverdale or a partmaster store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 i was under the impression that it ran before hand before being parked up 2 years ago, but when i got it the cap was loose and it had no rotor, a few other parts are missing too. had my hopes too high of a 1 week job just pulled the coil lead off and held it near an earth and had no spark jump. i assume this is what you meant to do?/another problem edit: thanks fuloc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 i have .07v going into thr coil when cranking and .01v when its just sitting in 'on' so i assume this is wrong, i should have 12v going into the coil yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Yea there should be a 12v source on the coil with the Key on. Your issues stem further back stream than the rotor cap it seems bud, put your fault finding hat on. Who knows how dodgy the wiring is, but find the relay that triggers the coil +12v it may also be the one that powers the injectors/ignitor and idle control, you want to make sure they all have +12V also. Its hard to help without having a look in person Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 yeah this looks like its going to be a bastard of a job. if anyone in chch knows their way around a 4age and is willing to come take a look that could be pretty damn helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 want me to come over saturday morning? sounds like inhibitor switch wiring and ballast resistor/wiring.. probably a plug forgotten to be connected somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 yeah man that would be awesome. flick me a txt on 02102578354 if youd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Ballast resistor? there should be no inhibitor switch as far as Fliboi's explanation goes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 put an led in the injector plug and it didnt go, it looks like nothing is getting power at all, and im beginning to wonder if something is being shit with the alarm and immobiliser. it apears to turn on and off ok, though the alarm dosnt make any noise or go off.. is there any way to make sure its not immobilising the engine all the time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Yea fuck now you say it has an alarm, it could easily be why nothings getting power. Pull it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 sorry man, only now did it occur to me that it could be causing issues. is it really as simple as 'pull it out' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 No not really. I would be fucking it right off and wiring all the factory wires that have been spliced into back to how they were just because I hate alarms. But it may not be working due to some other obvious problem that is also causing it to not have any juice, Who knows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 fuck alarms are made to piss you the fuck off. everything is completly illogical. and its fucking wired everywhere. ill rip the whole fucking thing out and rewire everything back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 ^ this. will be most of your problems most likely. ballast for the injectors/coil. (have come across it before) most cars use the same loom for manual/auto. but yea, alarms can fuck things up easily. take it out and make everything factory spec, then work from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp good place for wiring/alarm diagrams/color codes. just remember its american, so things are on the opposite side. color codes match though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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