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L20et ignition module problems


kevz_kuzzie_kustomz

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hi all, i am new to this site. i have a r30 skyline running a l20et. it has a problem with the ignition module. some times looses spark and car stops. wait a while then it runs fine. i have replaced it with a second hand 1 but now thats craped it self too. i have tried to get a new module for it from parts master, repco etc. but they all have no listing. cant even get a dizzy cap for it. any 1 kno of any other dizzys i cod adapt to fit? mayb use the guts out of a rb30e dizzy? has any one done this? any help or ideas would be very much appreciated. thanks

this is my car

dscf0673rm.jpg

dscf0672r.jpg

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hello and welcome!

sorry not too familiar with your engine's ignition system but i've used Bosch BIP373 IGBTs ($8 TO-220 package) to replace BMW and Toyota ignition modules. these require a logic signal with dwell to discharge the coil and so would suit fuel injected cars that provide dwell control from ECU - many ignition modules do dwell control themselves so they're not quite a drop-in replacement unfortunately.

any idea if the module connects to the computer or the dizzy?

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Oh jeeze. The dreaded R30 Skyline parts hunt - good luck. The reason I got rid of my last R30 was the disaster I had of locating parts. And now I feel a bit rank as I recently binned a bunch of L20et ECUs, Dizzys and sensors as to no one requiring them.

Anyway, its been a while but does the igntion module look the same as z-TIM009.jpg

Someone on here will be able to provide more help than I can at the moment, a forum that I used to use for help and info on L series motors was http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/for ... -l6-forum/

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evenin, no it dont look like that.i opened up my dizzy today and it has a crank angle sensor set up in it. not rely a ignition module. i am trying to get car to cut out again lol when i want it to do it it f**kn wont! it wod be connected to the ecu id say and would also need to work to get injector pulse. so when it cuts out next il chek for injector pulse. any one kno what would be a good sports coil for it?

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it will be an optical dizzy. i had same problem with mine but my issue turned out to be faulty temp sender cutting the ignition cause it thought it was hot.

bout all you can do is try find a replacement unit.

i gave up with mine and put an RB in it instead.

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ah yes the infamous optical CAS failure.

I spent 9 months tracking down a replacement for my FJ20, but have since learned that you can retrofit the optical module setup from SR20s with a bit of modding, so perhaps you may have similar luck with something from a RB.

repair this, and I guarantee your fuel pump will die next, they all do on R30s.

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it will be an optical dizzy. i had same problem with mine but my issue turned out to be faulty temp sender cutting the ignition cause it thought it was hot.

bout all you can do is try find a replacement unit.

i gave up with mine and put an RB in it instead.

replaced CAS today. car went fine. haha went to drive home from work and it cut out :(. towed it home. hooked up a timing light. put it on number 1. had no spark. put it on coil lead to dizzy. still nothing. checked for injector pulse. has pulse. fuel pump primes. has fuel. and can smell it out the back of the exhaust. this problem is really anoying me now. spent $200 for new CAS. parts master managed to match it up with something. but i still have the cutting out problem. the reason i pointed out to the CAS was the reason for no spark when fault occurs. but oviously its not that. the next step i took was waited till car was cold again. car started first try. turned it off. disconnected the coolant temp sensor plug. tried to start it and car wouldnt start. so i check for spark with it unpluged. has spark. but car dont start. seems odd but i still think it has something to do with the temp sensor. so i will replace that tomorrow. i think rb30e ones are the same.

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I just helped a dude troubleshoot a similar problem, it was the "power transistor" mounted on the side of the coil bracket. They aren't easy to find though. If you are replacing the coil make sure you get an electronic ignition one, the Repco part number used to be 11380 from memory, or use a newer t coil setup like from an RB30 or VG30 etc or a Bosch HEC715 or similar.

Maybe try the testing procedure at the bottom of this page, bear in mind it's for a Z31 but the transistor should be the same, if you need a wiring diagram for it look for an L28ET 280ZX diagram.

http://www.xenonzcar.com/z31/SENSORS/powertransistor.html

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Err, what is that coil off? The one on your car should be a normal 2 terminal coil and the bracket should look similar to this:

10726412.jpg

What they call the power transistor/ignitor is the thing on the right hand side of the bracket.

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the pictures i have put up are the coil and igniter that are from my car. the coil has 4 wires coming from it too. it is a factory l20et and that is the factory coil set up. i have looked at a l20e motor and the coil set up is like what you are thinking of. P.S. i have also replaced the coolant temp sensor to ecu and car still cuts out. so i am very much pointing the problem to be the coil or igniter. just dont know how to go about wiring up another coil. as my coil has 4 wires coming from it and it must use info from the igniter and deliver info for rev counter. has any one gone and ditched this igniter and coil system and wired up sumthing aftermarket?

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