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LSD Upgrade to AW11


legoman

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So the plan is to extract a mates C52, which has only done 120k, and slap an lsd into it.

This will hopefully save me the replacement bearing kit and new synchro plus I will retain the arm and leg I would need to exchange for them.

Is there a better place to procure an appropriate lsd?

Hope to be mostly doing motorkhana/speed events and track days etc, what one will best suit do we think then?

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Clutch type will be best for most applications, but TORSEN doesn't have wearing parts so will last longer if treated well.

The only issue with torsen is that they let go in low speed/static/wheel lift situations, but those shouldn't be an issue in an AW. Scour trademe for c series diffs everyday.

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gears

Yes, they wear out.

Viscous has no parts that are in direct contact. It's like an automatic torque converter.

It relies on the special viscous oil to do the work.

Search viscous fluid and you get something like "Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid which is being deformed by either shear stress or tensile stress".

With the special diff oil you end up with a fluid that will let a certain amount of slip happen but then lock solid once said limit is exceeded.

The only thing that wears is the oil and that is cheap when compared to the time and parts it takes to change a clutch LSD.

Clutch type is the go though.

Extra for experts: Mix corn flower with water and be bewildered at how you can manipulate it.

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This was less than useful btw

Mr toyota man was reluctant to price 1st time round

http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_lsd_mechanical.html like this then

gears

Yes, they wear out.

Viscous has no parts that are in direct contact. It's like an automatic torque converter.

It relies on the special viscous oil to do the work.

Search viscous fluid and you get something like "Viscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid which is being deformed by either shear stress or tensile stress".

With the special diff oil you end up with a fluid that will let a certain amount of slip happen but then lock solid once said limit is exceeded.

The only thing that wears is the oil and that is cheap when compared to the time and parts it takes to change a clutch LSD.

Clutch type is the go though.

Extra for experts: Mix corn flower with water and be bewildered at how you can manipulate it.

Yep, what he said................ my brain hurts........ too much learnding today :)

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Differential motion forces the interleaved discs to move through the fluid against each other. In some viscous couplings when speed is maintained the fluid will accumulate heat due to friction. This heat will cause the fluid to expand, and expand the coupler causing the discs to be pulled together resulting in a non-viscous plate to plate friction and a dramatic drop in speed difference.

any sustained load which overheats the silicone results in sudden permanent loss of the differential effect.[4] They do have the virtue of failing gracefully, reverting to semi-open differential behaviour. Typically a visco-differential that has covered 60,000 miles (97,000 km) or more will be functioning largely as an open differentia

Sounds gay.

You won't find an VLSD for C series anyway, so stop these points are pointless :P .

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Too true.

VLSD is the only way to go if I plan on doing VLSD's at every intersection though.

I even had the choice of a clutch type for no extra charge.

97,000k sheesh.

Good thing is changing the viscosity of the oil / tightness of the LSD takes about 3 mins.

Dad said he used helicopter gearbox oil for mad lock diff but not even stz.

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nah ah.

You forgot to teach me to read japanese silly.

Also, gimme 90,000 yen for the mechanical one

You won't find an VLSD for C series anyway, so stop these points are pointless :P .

Only one not discontinued apparently, is that the torsen one?

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Yep, get clutch if you can.

I only got viscous over clutch because I plan on doing some serious driving and am too poor to replace / re shim / rebuild a clutch LSD in E series.

Markku, you should find both our vids from the Tui. Perfect comparison between open and clutch.

I = understeer into oblivion, you = hektix oversteer.

I still won.

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+1 for clutch type. i doubt you will do enough driving/ abuse to wear the plates out. if you're giving it death shouldn't get wear anyway, as it should lock up. worst case is if you managed to get it to open wheel under power. but in that case its setup wrong or stuffed anyway

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