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gto1973 1973 mitsubishi gto


gto1973

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Damo, do you mine the front grill or the side air vent grills?

The front grill. Mine is the same silver all over but most have black behind the lights and on the inside part of the slats. I was wondering if there were the two tone grills for darker cards and the plain silver for lighter cars? Looking at various pics there doesn't seem to be much uniformity. My car is going off for paint soon and I just want to get everything right.

Speaking of the side air vents and other plastic chrome, anyone in NZ re-coating this stuff?

I just bought the Yokohama 352's which were on last week too so they should look pretty good on the car. Ive been working on it for some time now and it's getting close to finishing so I'm getting pretty excited!

Cheers,

Damo.

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Damo, The slat front grills (73-74) can be either all silver or silver and black and has nothing to do with body colour. The later honey comb grills are two tone (silver and black or body colour and black. So do whatever you think will look the best. What part of the country are you in?

For re-coating the side vents and tail light surrounds you could try the following companies.

Vacuum Metalisers in Waihi http://www.vacuummetalisers.co.nz/index.html

Total Plastics in Auckland http://www.totalplastics.co.nz/services.asp

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  • 2 months later...

The project car is slowly making progress, hopefully it will be off to the painters soon. What I have got left to do before that happens is finish replacing the fuel lines and tidy up the air dam. There isn't a build page, but I'll put one up at some stage.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Can't help with the price of the fibre-glass guards, but be prepared for a bit of work to make them fit on the car correctly.

Front window gc/gd rubbers need to have the sides trimmed and rejoined to make fit, but the top and bottom are a good fit. Don't know about any of the other rubbers.

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yea i remember you saying about the guards they come ready to bolt on? did you just have to redo the lines or what?

thats good about the rubbers so they take the chrome an all?

back of the cars startn to look real good nw just about ready for final prime gna make a start on rh door this weekend im just gna buy a dohc nw will it bolt up to my gearbox?

also do you know if a galant 16l front spoiler would bolt on?

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One request please don't use txtish as it takes some of us old farts a long time to decode :wink:

The outside skin shape and lines are good. The problem with the guards is the join between outer skin and the backing skin were the guards bolt to the frame. This joint is of a different thickness than the original metal and hence it takes a bit of work to get them sitting on the car properly.

The windscreen rubber does take the chrome trim. I don't know there was a 16L front spoiler. FAR make a spoiler for the GTO, but I don't like it that much, see below.

8c5137159214519.jpg

Why not use your current block since it a 4g63 and fit a dohc head, for info see http://www.projectzerog.com/sohc-dohc.shtml and http://forums.austarion.com/viewforum.php?f=13 but note that the Starions are wideblock while your current motor is narrowblock if it's using the original gearbox. The original gearbox should be strong enough if it's in good condition, the engine remains non-turbo and you don't drive like an idiot.

The issues you will run into with a dohc swap are; bonnet clearance with the top of the timing belt cover, firewall clearance with cam angle sensor and the water outlet, need for custom headers, electronic spark control if using carbs.

Bonnet clearance issue and solution.

781a3e116183328.jpg 0eb433116183358.jpg

How the dohc 4g63 engine looks in a GTO's engine bay

1b410393403753.jpg b21f8c74867780.gif

Using a RVR turbo head solves the cas issue and note the block-off plate for the rear water exit. Using the 7-bolt RVR head required the head bolt holes to be enlarged to fit on the 6-bolt block.

17ad1e83931771.jpg 21a6c9127447740.jpg

That's about all I have online at the moment apart from the photo below which shows the gives a hint of the front spoiler I made.

477ead144479787.jpg

I'll have more photos and info when I get round to putting up the project build page.

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yea that sounds good i have a block thats only done about 30,000 kms! engine looks good in there. i dnt like that spoiler either. might have to look into the heads i thought the compression ratio was to high with a dohc head

im lost so i need a 16'' casting? for a head small port gen 2 that how you read it?

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Any of the dohc heads will be better than the sohc head. The main choices are:

1] a big port vr4/na 2L galant 89-92, which are lacking in mid range torque compared to the smaller port heads.

2] a small port 1.6L mirage (4g61) 88-91?, which have smaller ports and the chambers are slightly smaller giving a slight increase in compression.

3] an evo 1-3, RVR 91-96, which have approximately the same port area as the 4g61, but are a different shape. An evo 4-6 manifold can be adapted to fit as the ports are the same size and the throttle body is pointing towards the front.

The heads in 1] and 2] are use the same diameter head bolts as your block while 3] use smaller head bolts and hence the holes need to be enlarge with particular care with the oil feed. The RVR turbo head 95-96 is the one that come with the front cam angle sensor, however all can be modified to take this sensor see http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1g2g ... echtip.htm

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The valve diameters are all the same, but material may vary. See the photos below showing the difference in the port sizes in the inlet manifold flange with the different heads.

VR4 top, 4g61 bottom

d16a71159748496.jpg

Vr4 top, evo 1-3 bottom (modified evo 4 manifold actual, but the ports are the same)

7b8d6a159748501.jpg

I'm not to sure regarding the pistons, but i would expect you would have to change due to the different valve reliefs positions between the sohc and dohc heads. High compression (10.4:1) cast replacement pistons with rings can be got for around $210 from STA see http://www4.eaccounts.co.nz/eOrder_v1.a ... um=130639#.

You don't necessarily have to replace the cas has you can use a bfh (not recommended) on the firewall or recess the firewall, but you will have to remove/modify the heater to get enough clearance. Replacing the cas depends on how you are going to run the engine i.e. wasted spark with carbs, wasted spark with batch efi or individual coils with sequential efi. For the first two you can make a crank based trigger, but for the 3rd a cam based trigger is required. I'm using the RVR front cas sensor so did have to modify the firewall, but I did modify it slightly anyway just to get a bit more clearance to make working on the engine a little easier.

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ports are way different in size and shapes didnt think the evo ports would be smaller. dnt know the difference in cost or power yet would there be a big difference in power with wasted spark batch efi and sequential efi? i was thinking itbs or quad carbs i cant check that site you posted out. 10.4:1 pretty good and got my prices from far :) nt to bad i thought it would be more. youve done alot of reashearch! what did you decide to go with?

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Go to http://www.staparts.co.nz/index.php and search under the part number PS2074G63M21 020R for the pistons.

I will be running an RVR head with the modified evo 4 inlet manifold with coil on plug direct ignition and sequential injection. For the cas I'm using a combination of the RVR front sensor and a kiggly racing 6-Bolt crank trigger sensor see http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/cranktrigger.htm

Sequential injection is said to give 3-4% improvement in torque and better fuel economy over batch injection. There should be minimal difference between wasted spark and direct ignition all things being equal.

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Your engine will have 21mm pins. The 22mm pins are for 7-bolt engines such as the evo and rvr. The 3-4% is in torque and it is not necessarily peak torque.

If you are going to run wasted spark and carbs/batch injection then you only need a crank trigger, however if running sequential injection then you need some way to determine where the engine is in it cycle e.g. tdc for cylinder 1. You will also have to decide what sort of computer you are going to run as that may effect what sort of trigger system is needed. For some ideas on trigger systems see this thread http://www.projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=978 and you may want to investigate megasquirt.

The trigger system I'm going to run should allow me in theory to run a factory computer, but I'll be using a Link. Originally I was was going to use a custom trigger system on the inlet cam gear using a Haltech S3 hall-effect sensor with four magnets (3 south pole + 1 north pole facing the sensor), see photo below for the mounting system. However, the RVR head came up so I changed to using the factory system.

f79b03160054777.jpg

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