shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 how tech is it to rebuild an engine? ie, rings,big ends and mains bearings? is it a case of just ripping it all apart and slapping the new shit in it? or do you have measure stuff... i want to get my hemi rebuilt asap, but cant afford to pay some "mechanic" to do it for me. especially when it could fuk out on the first lap... i know alot of you guys have rebuilt your own motors, and am super jealous of your epic skills. would love to be able to do my own shite also.. ive done the head gasket on the hemi, but now know i needed a composite gasket instead of the shitty steel one i got.. if you guys have any tips or advice please let me know.. alos if theres any special tools ill need.. obviously ring compressor and digital verniers right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23440&hilit=engine+rebuild+tool Also get the block skimmed and honed along with the head skimed. Then if you build it right and look after it there is no reason the motor should asplode and therefor last you ages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 beauty.. but whats engineers blue for? finger painting the block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 i plan to o/s the rings anyway,so block will get a hone heke...and will use a 265 head thatll need a mean skim to get the comp ratio up... not planning to do the valves or anything though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 at least give it a valve grind. do they care about a bit of smoke and shit? if so, check the guides out too. I've never built a motor. I really want to, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 hmmm, maybe it is the guides that cause the smoking....if i give it a rev theres abit of blowby/smoke from the rocker cover breather filter... wouldnt be a stupid idea to do them really... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Definitely lap the valves just because you can and it's easy when they are out for a head skim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 don't be afraid of fumes/mist from the breather. if it blows smoke out the exhaust then it's perhasp ready for a rebuild. tbh unless it went through more than half a litre to a litre of oil per meeting then I'd leave it be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 it did have smoke from the exhaust, not thick though, didnt notce a heap of oil use, it had fuel present in the oil, i think its from the mech pump fucking out... would that thin the oil out enough to pass by the rings/guides etc??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 yep. it'd also explain smoke coming from the breather that's more than normal as it begins to evaporate run it up to a good heat, then drop the oil and see what happens from there. oil's cheap. engine rebuiling isn't. you wouldn't want to rebuild one this close to/during the season would you? or do you have a spare motor to mess with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 should add that when i had the head off it the pistons were all good,no mass amounts of soot/carbon etc,bores looked good,valves had a bit of carbon on them,but no noticable fuckage... think i had pics somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 season has started... the head gasket started blowing in number 3 and 4 on the right hand side during practice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 heres some piccies for stickies Uploaded with ImageShack.us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 nail it back together get another block and go to work on that. nothing sucks more bollocks than not being able to hoon youtr whip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 nail it back togetherget another block and go to work on that. nothing sucks more bollocks than not being able to hoon youtr whip why yes oh wise one... might just change the head and see what happens there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I didn't see anyone mention about the bearings and crank which is far more important than anything else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 BEWARE of skimming your 265 head too far. IF you remove too much, it'll fuck up your valve geomerty with the hydraulic lifters. No offence, but you sound a little bit out of your depth judging by you questions/comments regarding the matter. There is the right way to (re)build and engine and 10,000+ wrong ways. the internal combustion engine is a marvelous invention, but it uses very fine tolerances. (measured in thousanths of an inch) There are many variables, and it only take the tolerances to be out just a wee bit in one area, and the whole thing can fall to shit. I'm not trying to sound preachy, I'd just hate to see you spend coin on your donk and wind up worse off than you are now. Each engine has it's own individual tricks and pitfalls. For good advise on hemis, check out the mopar market.com forums, or hemi6pack.com forums. The guys there have lots of know about them. As Graham said, the bearings are more important than the rings. Used hemi's are bad for camshaft endfloat which cam fuck up the mesh between the oil pump gear and the camshaft. Lose your oil pressure at revs, and your engine is TOAST. I've also found that the crank pins are prone to ovality after years of hard work. (I'm picking your engine hasn't had an easy life yeah?) To check this you really need a pair of micrometers. vernier calipers (Even digital ones) just aren't accurate enough. You can measure your bearing tolerances with plastiguage, but that wont show up any ovality in the journals. Plus that would require buying new bearings 1st, which may them be useless if your crank needs to be reground. (A regrind will set you back at least $300) Plus I'd borrow money and bet your timing chain and gears will be cream crackerd too. (I've never pulled down a hemi where they weren't) As for using the 265 head, what carburation are you running? I say this because with the bigger valves of the 265 head, you might loose a wee bit of velocity in the intake. and unless you're running a big cam and upgraded carburation, (along with the larger combustion chambers) you might actually lose power. You keep blowing head gaskets, have you had the head you're running now skimmed? (dumb question, but if it's a bit warped no headgasket will keep things sealed) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 BEWARE of skimming your 265 head too far. IF you remove too much, it'll fuck up your valve geomerty with the hydraulic lifters. No offence, but you sound a little bit out of your depth judging by you questions/comments regarding the matter. There is the right way to (re)build and engine and 10,000+ wrong ways. the internal combustion engine is a marvelous invention, but it uses very fine tolerances. (measured in thousanths of an inch) There are many variables, and it only take the tolerances to be out just a wee bit in one area, and the whole thing can fall to shit. I'm not trying to sound preachy, I'd just hate to see you spend coin on your donk and wind up worse off than you are now. Each engine has it's own individual tricks and pitfalls. For good advise on hemis, check out the mopar market.com forums, or hemi6pack.com forums. The guys there have lots of know about them. As Graham said, the bearings are more important than the rings. Used hemi's are bad for camshaft endfloat which cam fuck up the mesh between the oil pump gear and the camshaft. Lose your oil pressure at revs, and your engine is TOAST. I've also found that the crank pins are prone to ovality after years of hard work. (I'm picking your engine hasn't had an easy life yeah?) To check this you really need a pair of micrometers. vernier calipers (Even digital ones) just aren't accurate enough. You can measure your bearing tolerances with plastiguage, but that wont show up any ovality in the journals. Plus that would require buying new bearings 1st, which may them be useless if your crank needs to be reground. (A regrind will set you back at least $300) Plus I'd borrow money and bet your timing chain and gears will be cream crackerd too. (I've never pulled down a hemi where they weren't) As for using the 265 head, what carburation are you running? I say this because with the bigger valves of the 265 head, you might loose a wee bit of velocity in the intake. and unless you're running a big cam and upgraded carburation, (along with the larger combustion chambers) you might actually lose power. You keep blowing head gaskets, have you had the head you're running now skimmed? (dumb question, but if it's a bit warped no headgasket will keep things sealed) best post yet... i know im out of my depth.. ive posted copious amounts of threads on both the mopar and hemi sites and nothing decent in return. the cam end float has been dealt with on this engine by modding the timing cover. the current head and block have been skimmed,and its never been hot.. ive ordered a composite gasket,so if that doesnt solve it the whole thing is going in the bin.. go back to the trusty ford 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 if you're going to bin it, you can give it to me lol. unfortunately, unless you have at least a bit of the right gear, and some experience with engine assembly, no-one can really "tell" you how to rebuild your engine. A real good workshop manual is a good start. freshening up a motor can cost from $300-$300000000000000000000000000000000000000000000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I can see what you're saying, but isn't the best way to learn by reading the workshop manual and just having a go? I'm not sure what the engine is worth, but if it's just a cheap one then do a simple cheap rebuild and you'll learn the tricks along the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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